tracked or skid

Skidsteer Forum - Bobcat, New Holland, Case, John Deere

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The experienced hands here will tell you that tracked machines are more expensive to operate due to the cost of maintaining the undercarriage. In that regard, some brands of tracked machines are markedly worse than others. I've had pretty good luck with my Bobcat T-200. When I bought it, the tracks were about 66% worn. I recently went across something that start caused the left track to pull apart. I replaced the tracks, and had the undercarriage gone over. I was lucky to find a used undercarriage from a guy whose son ran a truck every night within a mile of my house. I bought the rollers and sprockets, and the son dropped them off. That's a heavy load! I had two idlers that were iffy, and those were replaced. The drive motors have two separate sections -- one that is essentially a bearing sealed in oil, and the other the rotating part of the drive motor. What often happens is that the outer sealed hub is run dry, the bearing starts to break up, the outer portion of the shaft begins to wobble on the failed bearing, and the rotables in the drive motor disintegrate. Despite filters in the lines, when one motor goes out it's not uncommon to have the failed motor take out the other motor and the pump. Track machines have a very low ground pressure, about 4 psi. The weight of the machine is spread out over a very large area compared to the 4 contact patches of a wheeled machine. It's possible to move straight over a finished lawn and cause no damage. However, since they are still "skid steers" any turn will tear up turf. The low ground pressure means that they may not work that well in snow. But you can build and travel up a snow ramp, something you can't really do with wheels. I used mine to push dirt under very muddy conditions. It was the perfect machine for my needs.
 
The experienced hands here will tell you that tracked machines are more expensive to operate due to the cost of maintaining the undercarriage. In that regard, some brands of tracked machines are markedly worse than others. I've had pretty good luck with my Bobcat T-200. When I bought it, the tracks were about 66% worn. I recently went across something that start caused the left track to pull apart. I replaced the tracks, and had the undercarriage gone over. I was lucky to find a used undercarriage from a guy whose son ran a truck every night within a mile of my house. I bought the rollers and sprockets, and the son dropped them off. That's a heavy load! I had two idlers that were iffy, and those were replaced. The drive motors have two separate sections -- one that is essentially a bearing sealed in oil, and the other the rotating part of the drive motor. What often happens is that the outer sealed hub is run dry, the bearing starts to break up, the outer portion of the shaft begins to wobble on the failed bearing, and the rotables in the drive motor disintegrate. Despite filters in the lines, when one motor goes out it's not uncommon to have the failed motor take out the other motor and the pump. Track machines have a very low ground pressure, about 4 psi. The weight of the machine is spread out over a very large area compared to the 4 contact patches of a wheeled machine. It's possible to move straight over a finished lawn and cause no damage. However, since they are still "skid steers" any turn will tear up turf. The low ground pressure means that they may not work that well in snow. But you can build and travel up a snow ramp, something you can't really do with wheels. I used mine to push dirt under very muddy conditions. It was the perfect machine for my needs.
From what I have heard if tires do what you need stick with them tracks are better but not on your wallet
 
thanks for the input. I know about the 4 tires psi compared to track, how about wide tracks vs regular, does it put more work onto the sprockets and bearings with the wide ones, how about viewing out of the cab I'm not into looking thru glass, that is what they made carharts for. Any body have any thoughts on the different brands, as we have all the major ones within 1/2 hour, as soon as it gets above freezing i'll be testing them.
 
thanks for the input. I know about the 4 tires psi compared to track, how about wide tracks vs regular, does it put more work onto the sprockets and bearings with the wide ones, how about viewing out of the cab I'm not into looking thru glass, that is what they made carharts for. Any body have any thoughts on the different brands, as we have all the major ones within 1/2 hour, as soon as it gets above freezing i'll be testing them.
I'm partial to bobcat brand, they have proved themselves to me over and over. We also have a couple of earlier model cat 277's. I find a hard time saying anything good about those particular cat machines. The AVS undercarriage on the cats is the biggest nightmare to work on and with all of the boggie wheels under them there is a lot of work. I've changed out a set of tracks by myself on bobcat in under 2 hours. With a cat, it takes two guys and if there is boggie work to do (and there will be) it could take 2 days. The boggie wheels on the 277's are about $400/each. There must be at least 12-15 boggies total. With bobcat, I have yet to change out a bottom roller wheel, front idler yes, and its simple to do, they just slide in. Keep in mind I'm not a mechanic but having operated heavy equipment for 25 years I know what has proven itself around the jobsite. We just traded off one hell of a t250 that put on over 4000 hours of heavy work without any engine trouble, and very little trouble overall.
 
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I'm partial to bobcat brand, they have proved themselves to me over and over. We also have a couple of earlier model cat 277's. I find a hard time saying anything good about those particular cat machines. The AVS undercarriage on the cats is the biggest nightmare to work on and with all of the boggie wheels under them there is a lot of work. I've changed out a set of tracks by myself on bobcat in under 2 hours. With a cat, it takes two guys and if there is boggie work to do (and there will be) it could take 2 days. The boggie wheels on the 277's are about $400/each. There must be at least 12-15 boggies total. With bobcat, I have yet to change out a bottom roller wheel, front idler yes, and its simple to do, they just slide in. Keep in mind I'm not a mechanic but having operated heavy equipment for 25 years I know what has proven itself around the jobsite. We just traded off one hell of a t250 that put on over 4000 hours of heavy work without any engine trouble, and very little trouble overall.
I am a mechanic gotta say 2 track swap out is about avarge. also its nice not havening undercarriage issues. yea tracks wear out. componets should not. rarely do I have to replace idlers or rollers. though I do suggest swapining sprockets left to right and change hub oil while there
 
I am a mechanic gotta say 2 track swap out is about avarge. also its nice not havening undercarriage issues. yea tracks wear out. componets should not. rarely do I have to replace idlers or rollers. though I do suggest swapining sprockets left to right and change hub oil while there
i meant one hr per side. good time
 
i meant one hr per side. good time
I had a old rocking horse (743) and found a deal on a newer John deere CT322 and after a couple years with it I will never go back to wheels, They ride better, more stable, and will go anywhere
 
thanks for the input. I know about the 4 tires psi compared to track, how about wide tracks vs regular, does it put more work onto the sprockets and bearings with the wide ones, how about viewing out of the cab I'm not into looking thru glass, that is what they made carharts for. Any body have any thoughts on the different brands, as we have all the major ones within 1/2 hour, as soon as it gets above freezing i'll be testing them.
I didn't have time to address everything before. As far as track width goes, I think the standard is 18" you don't want to go any less than that. Reason being is you want to keep as much dirt/rocks away from the undercarriage as possible, so wider is better. You wont notice any loss of power using a 18' track. You must be careful when operating not to push sideways thru piles of dirt. What happens is loose dirt sluffs down into the side of the track. When this happens dirt will fill the bottom of the track and as the rollers go over this dirt the track will bind and stretch. Be especially careful if you are ever pushing out loads of rock because rocks will find their way under the rollers and it doesn't sound good. So a wider track will aid in keeping debris from reaching the undercarriage. Also that's how you can pop a track off of the machine by getting too much dirt under the rollers and turning at the same time, especially on a side hill. I don't like hand controls especially on a track machine. Standard controls have a far less chance of ever giving you troubles. Track machines turn harder than wheel machines do because there is a lot more surface area/friction that has to slide to make a turn. When turning with standard controls, you can simply move one lever forward and one ease the other backwards to make a smooth turn. When turning with hand controls its hard to ease into a turn. What happens is only one track is trying to make the turn as the other track isn't moving. For instance, if your turning right. The left track will be driving forward and the right track will not be moving in the opposite direction to ease into the turn. So the left side is trying to slide that right track, that's a lot of friction. Then the left track will break traction and start spinning. Eventually, if you can find the right spot on the hand control that right track will help out, maybe. I cant speak for later model machines if this issue has been addressed. But our Cats are terrible for turning. As visibility goes, you'll just have to sit in different machines and judge for yourself. Tracks machines don't seem to have an advantage or disadvantage in visibility. Overall, I know as far as parts go, Cat parts will be the most expensive.
 
I didn't have time to address everything before. As far as track width goes, I think the standard is 18" you don't want to go any less than that. Reason being is you want to keep as much dirt/rocks away from the undercarriage as possible, so wider is better. You wont notice any loss of power using a 18' track. You must be careful when operating not to push sideways thru piles of dirt. What happens is loose dirt sluffs down into the side of the track. When this happens dirt will fill the bottom of the track and as the rollers go over this dirt the track will bind and stretch. Be especially careful if you are ever pushing out loads of rock because rocks will find their way under the rollers and it doesn't sound good. So a wider track will aid in keeping debris from reaching the undercarriage. Also that's how you can pop a track off of the machine by getting too much dirt under the rollers and turning at the same time, especially on a side hill. I don't like hand controls especially on a track machine. Standard controls have a far less chance of ever giving you troubles. Track machines turn harder than wheel machines do because there is a lot more surface area/friction that has to slide to make a turn. When turning with standard controls, you can simply move one lever forward and one ease the other backwards to make a smooth turn. When turning with hand controls its hard to ease into a turn. What happens is only one track is trying to make the turn as the other track isn't moving. For instance, if your turning right. The left track will be driving forward and the right track will not be moving in the opposite direction to ease into the turn. So the left side is trying to slide that right track, that's a lot of friction. Then the left track will break traction and start spinning. Eventually, if you can find the right spot on the hand control that right track will help out, maybe. I cant speak for later model machines if this issue has been addressed. But our Cats are terrible for turning. As visibility goes, you'll just have to sit in different machines and judge for yourself. Tracks machines don't seem to have an advantage or disadvantage in visibility. Overall, I know as far as parts go, Cat parts will be the most expensive.
Buy a track machine if you need the flotation working in mud or sand. If using as a tiny dozer, tracks give you better pushing power. Also track machined are highly preferred for back dragging as they do a much better job. Track machines are not great plowing snow on blacktop or concrete. Low psi foot print limits traction. If on pavement a lot, tracks burn up fast. Tracks tend to fell more stable with a 40/60 weight spilt vs a 30/70 on most wheeled machines. Track machines are awesome critters, but I feel a lot of people who buy them don't need them. If you are worried about a couple soggy weeks in spring and fall, get a set of OTT tracks for a wheeled machine.
 

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