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Patcon

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Joined
Jun 7, 2016
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The EIC on my LX665 has never done a proper self test since I've owned it. It has a lot of hours and an unknown history. A number of the lights on the EIC don't light up when first powering on like they should. After some examination there is some rust and corrosion on the rear of the board and I know several of the lamps test good even though they don't light up. Yesterday I developed an intermittent loss of power on the EIC. All the board lights went out and the fuel solenoid lost power; the fuel pump continued to run. The first time it came back on almost immediately then it took longer. The last time it didn't come back for a long time. I was trying to check it over with a volt meter but couldn't find where the power loss was. When it finally came back on the display was flickering, the arrow button was none functional and the fuel solenoid wouldn't activate. I hot wired the fuel solenoid to get it started and back home, but was looking for some pointers on where to start. Is the EIC toast? What would kill power to the EIC with out a blown fuse? I have the factory manuals but the electrical diagrams leave something to be desired...
 
Got in it on last Saturday and the board came on the way it normally does. Fired right up and could scroll through the functions. I wonder if it was overheating some how?
 
Patcon said:
Got in it on last Saturday and the board came on the way it normally does. Fired right up and could scroll through the functions. I wonder if it was overheating some how?
Click to expand...
Very strange....
What happens if you use you hand and bash around the board? trying to see if something could be loose causing it to act weirdly. Bad solder joints can cause issues like this, they work and don't work. When warm they may work or not work, same with being cold.
 
Tazza said:
Very strange....
What happens if you use you hand and bash around the board? trying to see if something could be loose causing it to act weirdly. Bad solder joints can cause issues like this, they work and don't work. When warm they may work or not work, same with being cold.
Click to expand...
The last time it cut off on the job site last week, I tried that. Wiggled all the fuse box reseated all the fuses looking for a loose connection. I couldn't find anything. I thought it was kind of odd too. I hate phantom problems, especially electrical problems. Makes it real hard to diagnose. I am doing the chain case mod and chasing a few leaks. Then I will work it some more again. We'll see if it comes back. It wasn't that warm outside so I thought an overheat condition would be sort of a remote possibility but looking at the back of the EIC anything is possible. Rusted rivets, corrosion, etc. I thought about just going to all analog gauges and dummy lights but that seems like a lot of work. I would hate to buy a new board and fry it or create more problems though
 

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