Taking apart tilt cylinder on New Holland L565

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PaulWI

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Joined
Jun 15, 2009
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17
Does anyone know how to take the big nut off of the end of the tilt cylinder on my skid steer. I am taking them apart for repair. I probably put 150 pounds of torque to it and it would not come apart. It is a right hand thread isnt it? Paul
 
Only 150 lb? :) on some you need to use a bar and really haul on them. If you are talking the not on the rod, they are usually put on with loctite which makes them even harder to get loose. I have used an 8' long piece of water pipe for leverage before.
Worst case, you may even require a bit of heat to get it to seperate.
 
Only 150 lb? :) on some you need to use a bar and really haul on them. If you are talking the not on the rod, they are usually put on with loctite which makes them even harder to get loose. I have used an 8' long piece of water pipe for leverage before.
Worst case, you may even require a bit of heat to get it to seperate.
Yeah it's probably 350-400 lb. ft to get it off. I don't know about LocTite but it may be a self locking nut which are harder to remove and install. The easiest way to hold the rod is simply reinstall one end back on the machine to keep if from twisting when wrenching.
An impact wrench may be easy too to remove the nut.
I haven't had good luck using an adjustable wrench on those nuts so I use a pipe wrench and a 4' pipe over the handle. Just be sure to deburr the nut after reinstalling it to prevent any chips from getting back in the system.
 
Yeah it's probably 350-400 lb. ft to get it off. I don't know about LocTite but it may be a self locking nut which are harder to remove and install. The easiest way to hold the rod is simply reinstall one end back on the machine to keep if from twisting when wrenching.
An impact wrench may be easy too to remove the nut.
I haven't had good luck using an adjustable wrench on those nuts so I use a pipe wrench and a 4' pipe over the handle. Just be sure to deburr the nut after reinstalling it to prevent any chips from getting back in the system.
I was talking about the nut that screws into the cylinder that is part of the piston that holds the rod in the cylinder. You guys are right though, I had to use an 18" pipe wrench and a 6 foot peice of water pipe to get that nut off. I bent 2 14" pipe wrenhes before finding my 18". ( I have never bent a 14" pipe wrench before this) The nut of the end on the rod was also hard to get off. 150 pounds of air pressure and an impact would not touch it. I had to use my 3/4" , 1 1/8" socket and 3/4" breaker bar and the 6 foot pipe to get the nut off. Thanks for the help guys. Paul
 
I was talking about the nut that screws into the cylinder that is part of the piston that holds the rod in the cylinder. You guys are right though, I had to use an 18" pipe wrench and a 6 foot peice of water pipe to get that nut off. I bent 2 14" pipe wrenhes before finding my 18". ( I have never bent a 14" pipe wrench before this) The nut of the end on the rod was also hard to get off. 150 pounds of air pressure and an impact would not touch it. I had to use my 3/4" , 1 1/8" socket and 3/4" breaker bar and the 6 foot pipe to get the nut off. Thanks for the help guys. Paul
When you guys put new seals in these cylinders do you wet the seals with hydraulic oil when installing them? Paul
 
When you guys put new seals in these cylinders do you wet the seals with hydraulic oil when installing them? Paul
Yep! use lots of oil when re-assembling the cylinders. Do the same on all O rings too, it prevents them pinching when you tighten them up, especially the gland nut.
 
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