T200 aux slow

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thats a head scratcher? would go to bics lockout valve and check orings, usually indicated by bleed thru on lift and tilt. as in dead head tilt lift rises as to how this would affect aux? need a run thru (?take it out warm it up. check drive .stall against brake, dead head aux (should see 100 150 rpm drop) see it feel it smell it. whats differant? i myselef would do a direct pump test, as stated tools aint cheap, but this would be the first step in diagonastic tree, as in when dealing with hyd issues, confirm pump good. )now that thats outta the way( go deeper,
That is very strange......
Almost as if a spool is not centred just right allowing fluid to bleed off, but if it was, surely the lift or tilt would be moving without you pressing a pedal.....
Really not sure where to look next, if you are getting good flow and pressure, the pump should be in good shape, the stems are working as when it's locked up you get good speed.
Power drain somewhere? i have no idea.....
 
That is very strange......
Almost as if a spool is not centred just right allowing fluid to bleed off, but if it was, surely the lift or tilt would be moving without you pressing a pedal.....
Really not sure where to look next, if you are getting good flow and pressure, the pump should be in good shape, the stems are working as when it's locked up you get good speed.
Power drain somewhere? i have no idea.....
I guess my next step is electrical tests. I wanna know if the electrical voltage to the stems changes when the bics is activated. So ill do some metering if not change in electrical then I gotta figure out what's affecting the hydro flow. Something else that's strange on this machine is the buttons on the joy sticks. On my 864 the right toggle button opened and closed the grapple and the right trigger activated continues aux flow. I could also use the toggle to reverse continues flow. And theI rest ofof the buttbuttons did nothing. On this T200 the left toggle opens and closes the grapple and every other button closes it. The right trigger starts continuous flow but I can't reverse it.
 
I guess my next step is electrical tests. I wanna know if the electrical voltage to the stems changes when the bics is activated. So ill do some metering if not change in electrical then I gotta figure out what's affecting the hydro flow. Something else that's strange on this machine is the buttons on the joy sticks. On my 864 the right toggle button opened and closed the grapple and the right trigger activated continues aux flow. I could also use the toggle to reverse continues flow. And theI rest ofof the buttbuttons did nothing. On this T200 the left toggle opens and closes the grapple and every other button closes it. The right trigger starts continuous flow but I can't reverse it.
That's interesting. On my T-200 the left switches do nothing. The right toggle opens and closes the grapple, and the trigger gives continuous flow. It's possible something was reconnected wrong.
 
That's interesting. On my T-200 the left switches do nothing. The right toggle opens and closes the grapple, and the trigger gives continuous flow. It's possible something was reconnected wrong.
That's how my 864 used to be. This machine has been this way since I bought it. I thought maybe a dealer could reprogram it. But when I questioned them about it they looked at me like I had two heads. The guy who had it before me was a real hack. I guess ill study the wiring diagrams and see if I can find some inconsistencies. To my understanding the remainder of the buttons are only for the 7-14 pin attachment control harness.
 
That's how my 864 used to be. This machine has been this way since I bought it. I thought maybe a dealer could reprogram it. But when I questioned them about it they looked at me like I had two heads. The guy who had it before me was a real hack. I guess ill study the wiring diagrams and see if I can find some inconsistencies. To my understanding the remainder of the buttons are only for the 7-14 pin attachment control harness.
could voltage being applied to the aux coils when it is not suppose to be there be the problem , did you try unpluging the aux coils and running it , don't some machines have proportional aux controll and some not , maybe the aux controll lock is staying engaged --------
 
could voltage being applied to the aux coils when it is not suppose to be there be the problem , did you try unpluging the aux coils and running it , don't some machines have proportional aux controll and some not , maybe the aux controll lock is staying engaged --------
I'd have a look at the wiring too, see if the wires look standard of it they have been fiddled with. My right handle does all the controls, not the left.
Fishfiles makes a good point, yours should have proportional controls like my S150 does.
 
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I'd have a look at the wiring too, see if the wires look standard of it they have been fiddled with. My right handle does all the controls, not the left.
Fishfiles makes a good point, yours should have proportional controls like my S150 does.
I have narrowed to problem to the brakes. If the brakes are applied the aux work fine. If the brakes are released the aux is slow on one side. I figured this out by unplugging the solenoid that's on the brake block. I tested the voltage going to both stems and they are both receiving 9.69 volts under load. So it seems when the brakess are released (since the stems for the aux and the stem for the brake block are fed hydraulic pressure from the same line) there's not enough pressure to move the spool for the aux . But that doesn't answer why it works one way and not the other. I haven't figured out why my joysticks are so goofy. But I believe its unrelated to my slow aux problem.
 
I have narrowed to problem to the brakes. If the brakes are applied the aux work fine. If the brakes are released the aux is slow on one side. I figured this out by unplugging the solenoid that's on the brake block. I tested the voltage going to both stems and they are both receiving 9.69 volts under load. So it seems when the brakess are released (since the stems for the aux and the stem for the brake block are fed hydraulic pressure from the same line) there's not enough pressure to move the spool for the aux . But that doesn't answer why it works one way and not the other. I haven't figured out why my joysticks are so goofy. But I believe its unrelated to my slow aux problem.
charge pressure dropping either from the brake pack by passing or the the charge pump putting out low pressure , could be the relief sticking from particles floating thru , you could block one brake at a time and monitor the drop in pressure when released ----will it turn , boom up and tilt at the same time without bogging down , probally not
 
charge pressure dropping either from the brake pack by passing or the the charge pump putting out low pressure , could be the relief sticking from particles floating thru , you could block one brake at a time and monitor the drop in pressure when released ----will it turn , boom up and tilt at the same time without bogging down , probally not
If I'm driving forward and I lower the boom it bogs. So I doubt it will turn lift and tilt without bogging
 
If I'm driving forward and I lower the boom it bogs. So I doubt it will turn lift and tilt without bogging
check the charge pressure at idle , high rev and when engauging one fuction at a time and then while multifunctioning , if you have the deluxe console it is easy , if not then you will have to tap into the charge curcuit and attach a gauge , it should stay close to 400 psi , -----------------could be as easy as polishing the relief plunger or adding a shim , could be the brake packs leaking thru , then it could be the signs of major problems brewing
 

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