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Message: <blockquote data-quote="thedassler" data-source="post: 101572" data-attributes="member: 15657">I agree, the actuator noise I heard when considerably out of spec at .66 volts was likely the actuators looking for neutral. And I agree that now that they are nearly there, that could be why they remain almost silent (a very short "grunt"). However, I don't think that the actuators are calibrating, I think they are simply looking for neutral or what the controller believes to be neutral. And when it doesn't find what it is looking for, it throws a code. OK, follow my thinking. First, Bobcat says that the machine needs to be updated and or calibrated when nearly anything is done involving the ACS. And as many have posted in the forum, the ACS system in picky and often needs a hook up to at a dealer to solve pesky problems like mine. Now assuming that all actuators are set at factory they should always be within 0.01 or maybe 0.05 of the 1.72 volt target at neutral. Technically there is nothing to set on the actuator it is purely mechanical. So what are we calibrating or setting? The controller... So when the dealer hooks up our bobcats to the service PC for calibrations, First they run a test to verify that the actuators are preforming within spec. Measuring run time and time back to neutral ECT. Then assuming that the actuators are deemed OK, which also includes based on the results, the health of the spool valves, it tells the controller to except whatever voltage is present when the actuators are installed and "OK." In some cases, simply do to variations within machine parts tolerances, or within the preset actuator, that means one actuator might read 2.02 volts and the other 1.67 volts at "neutral" while in the machine. Now the controller is looking for those values when the key in set to run or pre start, and if the values sent back to the controller are out of what is an allowable range (lets say .05 volts) it throws a code. Looking back at my situation, my first code was a double code. 32-34 (tilt actuator not in neutral) and 32-65 (sensor supply voltage out of range). Truth be told, knowing what I believe I know now, I should have just cleaned the terminals and attempted a manual calibration. Actually I did try that, but was impatient and probably should have let the cleaned terminals dry overnight after spraying them with break cleaner. The 32-65 code is what makes me think it might have been that simple. Instead I dismantled my actuator and learned the hard way about resetting the return values to 1.72 volts when in neutral. All of which I found in a youtube video before joining this forum which was a result of a google search for "bobcat code 32-34". Tiny side note...I actually took out and dismantled the wrong actuator first. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> For some reason I got confused and played with the lift actuator, and when I put it back in, and tried a manual calibration, it switched to 32-39 (lift actuator not in neutral) which is the one I just messed with. And the 32-65 (sensor supply voltage out of range) was possibly still from my unresolved dirty connection on the tilt actuator. And before realising my mistake, I took out the other (tilt) actuator and dismantled it too. I won't bore anyone with the next hundred steps in the learning curve, some of that you can read above. However, for shits and giggles, I believe that at this point my machine thinks I have two new actuators because the values returned to the controller don't match what the controller is looking for (because I reset them when I manually bench set the values, and later manually set the values in the machine). At the moment I only have one code. 32-34 (tilt actuator not in neutral) which also according to the 900 page dealer shop manual, also reads "tilt actuator not calibrated". The question now is, if my theory is correct, can I slowly reset the tilt actuator voltage output higher or lower by moving the regulator wheel one tooth at a time, and maybe get lucky and find the range my controller is looking for? Note: The shop manual states that upon powering up, the ACS processor runs a system check in order starting with the lift handle sensor and then the lift actuator before moving on to the tilt handle sensor and then tilt actuator. Does that mean that if the lift actuator is not throwing a code, that it is within range? Got to get back to my regular work tomorrow, and I might just wimp out and hall this heavy paperweight to the dealer, but it is food for thought. What is the lesson here? Assuming my theories are right, and regardless of what one might think is wrong, I would advise hooking up the actuator to a volt meter to get a reading from the actuators while in the machine prior to removing. At least then you will know what return values or volts your controller is looking for, and it might just save you a trip to the dealer. Lastly, Thanks again to BC873G, so far nearly all of your thoughts have put me further down the road to figuring this little female dog...I mean cat... out, and to answer your question as to how long have I had the machine, I only had about 2 hours of light work on the machine before I started this mess with a full service. It was operating fine but as I had no history I thought it best to "start new" with all the fluids and so on. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></blockquote>

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