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Message: <blockquote data-quote="thedassler" data-source="post: 101523" data-attributes="member: 15657"><p>Hi All, I only had a few hours in the shop today but I will list the progress. First, start the wood stove. It is well above freezing, but feels ass cold. I guess the golden autumn here is Germany is over. Second I started up the t190 to let it warm up (recommended procedure in the shop manual prior to calibration test). Next I proceeded to attempt the manual calibration that is described in the service manual that included the serial number of my machine (531711788). Which describes first clearing any fault codes (not done as I cannot find any procedure to do so). At which point... 1) Lower seat bar. 2) Turn key to "run" position without starting motor. 3) Press green operation button to release hand controls (at this point I tried to "trick" the machine by gently releasing the solenoids to free up the hand controls). 4) Stroke the controls toward centre and hold. 5) Raise seat bar enough to engage BICS. 6) Lower seat bar. 7) Press green operation button as which time Calibration sequence should begin. No love...ACS light remains on, and at the end of the procedure at which time I should be hearing the Actuator motors "calibrating", I hear nothing. So... I pulled the steering panel and proceeded to follow some leads posted yesterday by BC783G and 7LBSSMALLIE. First I checked for 5v from the controller (female connector for both actuators) with key in the run position, and this checked out OK. I then checked the voltage output with the actuators installed and in the (assumed) neutral position. This reads as .66-.67 volts on both. Can anyone verify if this is correct? From a helpful youtube video, my understanding is that when the latter style actuators are in the neutral position (slide arm flush with end of aluminium housing) the voltage output should be 1.72 volts. Can anyone maybe confirm this, and if it should remain 1.72volts when installed and machine not in operation? In any case, I decided to pull both actuators and do a follow-up bench test. Prior to preforming a further bench test, I checked the spool valves. First, both are clean and dry and when gently pressed in, spring back firmly. When gently pulled out, they too spring back inward and do not appear to have any sloppy movement. It could be my imagination, but it did seem to me that the upper (tilt) spool valve did not have the same travel as the lower (lift) spool valve. It would make some sense as the lift and tilt cylinders are not the same size. But before I check the spool valves off my list, can anyone confirm if it is possible that the throw from the two spool valves could be different? They do use two different length screws for fastening the Actuators, but that in not conclusive either. Any thoughts or related experience would be great. OK, now bench test 2.0 of the actuators. Tilt actuator (2007 and likely original) with slide arm flush with end of housing, and with 5.0 v input, read 1.67 volts. I then disassembled to re-calibrate to 1.72 volts. Actuator operates smoothly and is easy to push in and out slide arm with fingers. I then for comparison removed connecting gear and the 12volt motor spins freely and smoothly with fingers. Lift actuator (2015) with slide arm flush with end of housing and 5.0 v input read 1.72 volts. However, actuator feels much stiffer than tilt actuator. I can push the slide arm in and pull it out, but it requires more effort. I then disassembled for comparison. With connecting gear removed, slide arm assembly runs in and out more freely. 12volt motor does not spin as freely as tilt actuator motor, and feels lumpy by comparison. The older tilt motor is and American made "Globe" motor with 4 mounting screws to the aluminium housing, while the newer motor is nondescript and has only 3 mounting screws and appears not to be of the same quality. Any thoughts or experience out there? I will add that both actuators operate in both direction with 5volt applied for test purposes. However I have no way to test speed or strength of motors. Could it be that the lift actuator is actually preforming outside of range and that throws a code and prevents proper calibration? Prior to todays removing of the actuators, I was only consistently getting first a 32-34 code (Tilt actuator not calibrated) which after attempting a manual calibration switched to 32-39 (lift actuator not calibrated). I did manage to get the to codes to switch back and forth more than once, but at this point (prior to pulling everything apart) I have been sitting with a 32-39 code. I ran out of time for any further testing today, but if anyone can help answer my questions or has any ideas they are willing to share, Please shout out!! Thanks for taking the time.</p></blockquote><p></p>

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