T 200

[siduramaxde]

Well I finally traded in my 863 f sieres on a T 200 G sieries this past summer. I was on a new lawn installation job and I kept making ruts so I went to the dealer and asked for a used T 200 and bought it. It is amazing in the dirt and does things that I didn't think possible. I would have never thought tracks would make this much difference but they do. There are a few things that I'm worried about. IMO it rides 2x better in the dirt than the 863 but it is 3x worse on pavement. I do lots of snow removal in the winter and I guess I will feel every little crack in those huge parking lots. I'm also going to have to replace the tracks in about 200-300 hours and I don't look forward to the cost and the actuall task of replacement. I have the service manual and it says that the idlers and rollers have oil in them and I have thought about replacing the oil but i think that can wait till I put new tracks on. I did check all the rollers and idlers and they seem to be in good shape and roll freely. I have cab heat, a/c, and stereo. When I'm in the cab and going at full speed (which is a tad bit slower than the 863) I can hear the tracks rattling. Can anyone shed some light on what I'm hearing? It's not a constant rattle but I'm guessing that it's just the imbedded metal riding on the rollers and idlers???. any help would be great. Rod

 

[owensge]

Rod, you might check your track tension. Here's a good link to a previous topic on this subject: http://www.bobcatforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=306
There are grease fittings for each track that are used to adjust the tension.
Your manual should help you locate their precise location.
I have a T200 as well, but it's exclusively on dirt... You'll definitely wear them out faster on pavement... (around $3000.00) for a new pair.
If your T200 was part of the rental fleet (mine was), you might have a govenor on it which will definitely effect your overall ground speed. During an inspection, I found one on my unit and had it removed. Made a big difference.

 

[siduramaxde]

Rod, you might check your track tension. Here's a good link to a previous topic on this subject: http://www.bobcatforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=306
There are grease fittings for each track that are used to adjust the tension.
Your manual should help you locate their precise location.
I have a T200 as well, but it's exclusively on dirt... You'll definitely wear them out faster on pavement... (around $3000.00) for a new pair.
If your T200 was part of the rental fleet (mine was), you might have a govenor on it which will definitely effect your overall ground speed. During an inspection, I found one on my unit and had it removed. Made a big difference.

I believe the tracks are tensioned properly according to the service manual. Jacked up one side of the loader and place 1/2" dowel rod between the track and middle idler. I did this for both sides. How tight do you keep your tracks? Do you go by if the track slaps the top of the grease cylinder housing? Mine will still his the housing but not too easily. My loader was not in a rental fleet but I am interested what kind of govenor you found. Was it hydraulic or was something limting the engine speed? As far as track wear is concerned, I'm not too worried. When plowing snow the pavement is wet and slick and doesn't result in much wear. I did many hours plowing with the 863 and I didn't see any tire wear. Most of the time it was kinda hard to turn the 863 around due to lack of traction (just sits and spins). BTW- I use a 10' snow pusher when plowing and it really gets the job done fast with minimun thought. Thanks for the reply! Rod

 

[owensge]

I believe the tracks are tensioned properly according to the service manual. Jacked up one side of the loader and place 1/2" dowel rod between the track and middle idler. I did this for both sides. How tight do you keep your tracks? Do you go by if the track slaps the top of the grease cylinder housing? Mine will still his the housing but not too easily. My loader was not in a rental fleet but I am interested what kind of govenor you found. Was it hydraulic or was something limting the engine speed? As far as track wear is concerned, I'm not too worried. When plowing snow the pavement is wet and slick and doesn't result in much wear. I did many hours plowing with the 863 and I didn't see any tire wear. Most of the time it was kinda hard to turn the 863 around due to lack of traction (just sits and spins). BTW- I use a 10' snow pusher when plowing and it really gets the job done fast with minimun thought. Thanks for the reply! Rod

Rod, my tracks do not slap the housing. I tighten them just enough to keep from slapping while still allowing flexibility in the tension. The govenor I found reduced engine speed. The T-200 is an amazingly versatile machine! I'd like to hear how it performs in the snow... Be sure to let us know your experiences with it..

 

[StuZ]

Rod, my tracks do not slap the housing. I tighten them just enough to keep from slapping while still allowing flexibility in the tension. The govenor I found reduced engine speed. The T-200 is an amazingly versatile machine! I'd like to hear how it performs in the snow... Be sure to let us know your experiences with it..

Bobcat's new K series has an extra roller which gives it a better ride. As for the noise, I'd look my idlers over real good. 1 more thing, call Chris and get a price for your under undercarriage parts and replacement tracks at www.rubbertrax.com

 

[goodtech]

Well Right now you have to watch those rollers and idlers, when they blow the seals might as well junk them, bobcat has replaced them with a sealed unit that so far has held up. The one big thing that is killing people on these T200's is the drivemotors. Listen to me Guys the book says every 1000 hrs to change the oil, I reccommend to my customers every 250 hrs. The oil is breaking down way to quick and taking out the bearings. Bobcat has fixed this with a new drive motor with bigger bearings but it is at your cost, and they are about on a 1 month back order right now. Along with that new drive motor you also have to purchase a new sprocket, so please guys watch and change that oil in those drive motors, otherwise it is going to cost you some money, they only take 90cc of synthtic 90w so you figure out the cost difference. With those Enclosed cabs you are going to be rattled right out of them. For some reason they are loud inside, even the new 250's and 300's are loud inside of the cabs. Good luck with your machine other than the track motors they seem to be holding up rather well, don't forget to have your timing belt on the Duetz changed out every 1000-1500 hrs

 

[siduramaxde]

Well Right now you have to watch those rollers and idlers, when they blow the seals might as well junk them, bobcat has replaced them with a sealed unit that so far has held up. The one big thing that is killing people on these T200's is the drivemotors. Listen to me Guys the book says every 1000 hrs to change the oil, I reccommend to my customers every 250 hrs. The oil is breaking down way to quick and taking out the bearings. Bobcat has fixed this with a new drive motor with bigger bearings but it is at your cost, and they are about on a 1 month back order right now. Along with that new drive motor you also have to purchase a new sprocket, so please guys watch and change that oil in those drive motors, otherwise it is going to cost you some money, they only take 90cc of synthtic 90w so you figure out the cost difference. With those Enclosed cabs you are going to be rattled right out of them. For some reason they are loud inside, even the new 250's and 300's are loud inside of the cabs. Good luck with your machine other than the track motors they seem to be holding up rather well, don't forget to have your timing belt on the Duetz changed out every 1000-1500 hrs

Goodtech, Thanks for the reply and the great information. On my unit someone wrote inside the back door that all the rollers and idlers were replaced sometime in march of 2004 (don't know the hours). I can't imagine all the rollers and idlers being bad all at one time for the previous owner so I'm thinking that they may have been replaced under some sort of warranty??? I guess i will change the drive motor oil real soon. I have checked all ther rollers and idlers and they seem to be fine. I have looked in the service manual about changing the timing belt and I seem to remember needing some sort of special tool to do this. Is this true? I do know how to turn wrenches so I will probably do the timing belt myself even if I have to buy/make the special tool. The only thing I really hate about these loaders is working on them. Everything requires 3-4 hands, super power strength, and double joints. Why is everything so tight?

 

[goodtech]

Goodtech, Thanks for the reply and the great information. On my unit someone wrote inside the back door that all the rollers and idlers were replaced sometime in march of 2004 (don't know the hours). I can't imagine all the rollers and idlers being bad all at one time for the previous owner so I'm thinking that they may have been replaced under some sort of warranty??? I guess i will change the drive motor oil real soon. I have checked all ther rollers and idlers and they seem to be fine. I have looked in the service manual about changing the timing belt and I seem to remember needing some sort of special tool to do this. Is this true? I do know how to turn wrenches so I will probably do the timing belt myself even if I have to buy/make the special tool. The only thing I really hate about these loaders is working on them. Everything requires 3-4 hands, super power strength, and double joints. Why is everything so tight?

Yes You do need a couple of tools to make the job easier, but you can get buy if you need too. the only thing is that you need the duetz belt tensioner tool so you can get the tension right on your belt, because if you don't your in trouble. Been there and done that. Also if you are going to do it your self buy the kit can't remember the number right now but the main thing that fails on the duetz is not the belt it is usually the tensioner, and even duetz fesses up to it. But if your going to do it with out a tensioner tool follow the book instructions and you just want to make sure the belt will slighty roll, almost like a serptine belt does, if it is too loose it wil slipp and if it is to tight is will wear really quick. I'm a small guy and I guess after the years of working on these things I have all the right tooling now and the know how, I actaully love working on them and t/s them. Good luck

 

[siduramaxde]

Well Right now you have to watch those rollers and idlers, when they blow the seals might as well junk them, bobcat has replaced them with a sealed unit that so far has held up. The one big thing that is killing people on these T200's is the drivemotors. Listen to me Guys the book says every 1000 hrs to change the oil, I reccommend to my customers every 250 hrs. The oil is breaking down way to quick and taking out the bearings. Bobcat has fixed this with a new drive motor with bigger bearings but it is at your cost, and they are about on a 1 month back order right now. Along with that new drive motor you also have to purchase a new sprocket, so please guys watch and change that oil in those drive motors, otherwise it is going to cost you some money, they only take 90cc of synthtic 90w so you figure out the cost difference. With those Enclosed cabs you are going to be rattled right out of them. For some reason they are loud inside, even the new 250's and 300's are loud inside of the cabs. Good luck with your machine other than the track motors they seem to be holding up rather well, don't forget to have your timing belt on the Duetz changed out every 1000-1500 hrs

Goodtech, I have checked my book about the drivemotor carrier. It says to use 10w-40 (SEA). Is the book correct or am I supposed to use synthtic 90w? Do you work for bobcat because you seem to know quite a bit about these machines? You have been very helpful. I think when I change the drivemotor carrier oil I will just see what comes out and replace it with the same. It should be pretty easy to see the difference between 90w and 10w-40.

 

[goodtech]

Goodtech, I have checked my book about the drivemotor carrier. It says to use 10w-40 (SEA). Is the book correct or am I supposed to use synthtic 90w? Do you work for bobcat because you seem to know quite a bit about these machines? You have been very helpful. I think when I change the drivemotor carrier oil I will just see what comes out and replace it with the same. It should be pretty easy to see the difference between 90w and 10w-40.

Well I know on 1000 hrs service or when I have been changing these drive motors out I a synthetic 90w and they only take 90cc for the new or the old style motor carriers. Go down to you local dairy supply place and buy a big suringe. Bobcat charges 65 dollars for a suringe and a 1/4 of quart of synthetic oil. I have been working on bobcats for the past seven years, four of them now has been for a dealership. So if you guys out there have a problem let me know and i will try to help you out to the best of my ability. I have access to everything that I need to get you guys an answer or help. I understand that everybody doesn't have the funds to go take there machine down to there local dealership and get raped at $90 hr. Good luck

 

[siduramaxde]

Well I know on 1000 hrs service or when I have been changing these drive motors out I a synthetic 90w and they only take 90cc for the new or the old style motor carriers. Go down to you local dairy supply place and buy a big suringe. Bobcat charges 65 dollars for a suringe and a 1/4 of quart of synthetic oil. I have been working on bobcats for the past seven years, four of them now has been for a dealership. So if you guys out there have a problem let me know and i will try to help you out to the best of my ability. I have access to everything that I need to get you guys an answer or help. I understand that everybody doesn't have the funds to go take there machine down to there local dealership and get raped at $90 hr. Good luck

Goodtech, thanks for all the info. I will talk to my buddy (dairy farmer) and get a suringe. I think the reason I work on most of my own stuff is not only price but the hassel of going to the dealer. It takes lots of time to load the thing up, drive to the dealer, and then go back and pick it up when it's done. That's 4 hours I could have just worked on the thing myself.

 

[siduramaxde]

Goodtech, thanks for all the info. I will talk to my buddy (dairy farmer) and get a suringe. I think the reason I work on most of my own stuff is not only price but the hassel of going to the dealer. It takes lots of time to load the thing up, drive to the dealer, and then go back and pick it up when it's done. That's 4 hours I could have just worked on the thing myself.

Goodtech, I changed out the drive mototr carrier oil today. What I thought would be about a 5-10 minute job turned into a 2 hour ordeal. The 1 side went real easy, as I was able to turn out the little plug with no problem. Plenty of oil (90w) came out and I put 90w synthetic back in. The other side was a different story. I had to drill the plug out and I ended up breaking an easyout in the plug. Luckily I was able to get the easy out back out with little trouble. So I ended up using a left handed drill bit and finnally it came out. However, There were only a few drops of oil that came out on this side (not good). I went to town, got a new plug, and filled the empty side with 90w and will see what happens. I guess I now need to know what to look for when the drive motor carrier fails? I wasn't happy to see that no oil came out of the one side. I'll bet that when the previous owner went to change it out he couldn't get the plug out on that side and just skipped it. Thanks for any info.

 

[goodtech]

Goodtech, I changed out the drive mototr carrier oil today. What I thought would be about a 5-10 minute job turned into a 2 hour ordeal. The 1 side went real easy, as I was able to turn out the little plug with no problem. Plenty of oil (90w) came out and I put 90w synthetic back in. The other side was a different story. I had to drill the plug out and I ended up breaking an easyout in the plug. Luckily I was able to get the easy out back out with little trouble. So I ended up using a left handed drill bit and finnally it came out. However, There were only a few drops of oil that came out on this side (not good). I went to town, got a new plug, and filled the empty side with 90w and will see what happens. I guess I now need to know what to look for when the drive motor carrier fails? I wasn't happy to see that no oil came out of the one side. I'll bet that when the previous owner went to change it out he couldn't get the plug out on that side and just skipped it. Thanks for any info.

You will find out if the bearings and seals are bad in a couple of hrs of running your machine. After running it for awhile hopp out and take a look around your sprocket if it is wet.. your going to have a problem. I have not seen one yet just use fluid, it usually leaks out when the bearing takes a crap and takes out the seal. Lets hope for the best.