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Message: <blockquote data-quote="JOK" data-source="post: 22884" data-attributes="member: 260"><p>Hi guys. Try to answer some of your questions. No off season here. Machine usually works 5 1/2 days a week. Not a lot of spare time for maintenance and living. I'm not a maintenance freak, just do things when I can. When working on the machine I will look at everything I can to see any small problems before they become large ones. Best tip ever is to let the machine warm up properly. [plenty of guys dont]. Next is Drive the machine. Slow turns put much less strain on the drivetrain, thus less wear and less surface damage. Even in tight situations I will do a very small 3 or 4 point turn. Use standard maintenance schedule with a good 10w40 engine oil in all systems . Parts and machines far more expensive hear in Australia than in the US, so I rebuild rollers/idlers. Rollers dont self desruct as bad as idlers so brgs/seals usually do the tricki. Idlers on the other hand can make a real mess but I have some spare ones out of the junk bin that I rebuild when I can. Build up/ resize axles. Remove damaged axle housing from idlers/replace with new steel one[not cast] Original metal is too hard to remachine when welded. Build up wheel surfaces with low grade hardfacing electrode or wrap with 40mm x 20mm flat bar if pressed for time. Use OEM seals [can't find alternative] store bought brgs. Remove inner seal and fill entire housing with extreme pressure liquid grease. Although a liquid its not as runny as oil and will hold up longer with a leaking seal. Sticks around better to show you have a problem. I dont inspect idlers as such, but keep an eye on them but more importantly listen to them. If something sounds a bit off, have a look and feel them. Rollers/idlers do get warm but one with a bad bearing/ no lube will be hot. Track inspections can be done anytime. Tilt bucket forward, lift off ground. Give rollers a bit of a spin. A bit of sideways movement means a bad bearing. I get around 2000 hrs from a set of OEM tracks. Not worth buying anything else. I have tried them. Spend a lot of time on hard surfaces but always drive to the conditions. Spinning in circles and filling the track with dirt/gravel/rocks is a great way to stretch/break a track. I think mud is one of the worst surfaces to work on as it sticks to everything and acts like a grinding paste. Engine/pumps, no dramas. Constant vibration of track will cause anything thats not bolted down to wear prematurely so go to work with the zip ties. Good luck with your machines. Got any other queries give us a shout.</p></blockquote><p></p>

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