if your still sliding with screw in carbides into the track, I doubt any special SNOW track is going to be any better(unless you also add studs to them too and the right amount of studs that is to either)
BUT MY first question would also be how many studs did you screw in, maybe you didn;t add enough! as studded tracks will IMO always be better than any dedicated SNOW track set up
as basically snow tracks from MY experience, honestly are typically just a softer durometer rubber , with a different thread pattern, consisting of more edges that allow things to grip and grab better in the cold temps, that snow and ice are, they stay flexible longer and all the edges grab, where as more dirt tracks have larger lugs, less edges and they are HARDER rubber, which doesn;t allow things to grip well in cold temps or slick surfaces!
and then the second disadvantage of dedicated snow tracks, is, if you use them ALL yr, they will wear out a LOT faster due to being of a softer compound!, most folks tend to remove them for summer work and save them for winter use, as once they loose there sharp edges, they do NOT work as they once did, , you can re cut things to get edges back, but your also shorting life by doing so, which again is why most will have a set JUST for snow and a set for dirt work!
that is if there budget allows
if not, again,
I doubt they will work any better than a properly studded set of standard tracks will! or should say ,a properly set of studded tracks should work better, and you can remove the studs for summer time work!
But once you add studs, to even basic tracks, you should be getting a LOT more traction, as there designed to get into snow and ice to a base under it to give grip and using the down force of the weight of the machine to give traction to the studs
also keep in mind the design and length of the carbide can make a difference
but most cases I know of where traction is still poor, its due to NOT enough studs having been added to there track!(40 yrs of snowmobiling and playing with studs to see how amount and size and design can make a big difference, YES a snowmobile is not a skid steer/CTL) but the concept is the same more or less!!
SO<> before buying SNOW Track's(not that there a bad idea, but are a a lot more than more studs)
I would ask how many studs have you added and maybe add more and see !
also keep in mind some blowers add a LOT of weight to the nose of the machine, so not having a lot of tail weight, can leave you with a lot less down force across the whole track , leaving a smaller contact patch to stop you, so, having or adding more tail weight maybe would help you with better traction
as for your machine stalling
I am not claiming to be any expert here, , but I would gather you have to have the correct amount of flow, for the unit you have and maintain that and allow both to run correctly! all the more pending the amount of snow , type of snow and speed your trying to blow it at, as in ground/travel speed, as its not that hard to over load things and make it want to load up and stall!
as NOT all snow blowers use the same, some require a lot more GPM flow rates than others
I would look up specs on both your model blower and machine spec's and see where the result get you on what each need and can make at what RPM, and what the recommended travel speed is when in deep wet snow or frozen hard snow, as them things can alter how well things run!
