Snow plow geometry

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I have a Myers 6-ft snowplow blade, complete with A-frame and angle cylinders. I fabricated it to a mounting plate for use with my 742B. On dead level, perfectly flat ground it works fine, but going over a hump, dip, or on side-sloping ground, the corners dig in or the blades rides too high over snow. I am fairly confident the source of the problem is the fact that the Bobcat has such a short wheel-base and no suspension that any change in terrain is telegraphed directly to the four wheels and thence to the bucket arms and the pivot points for the A-frame. . I believe the reason that snowplows float so well on a truck is that the wheelbase is so long and the suspension so flexible that changes in terrain have very minor influence on the plow's push plates attached to the truck. All that said, is there a method or technique for mounting a truck snowplow to a skidsteer that will allow it to float, and free the operator from adjusting the height and angle too frequently to maintain semblance of competency when plowing ?

 

[reaperman]

Have you tried putting your machine in float? This can be done by pressing your right pedal all the way forward with your toe. Normally there is resistance when doing so, but by pushing hard the pedal should lock forward and stay put and you unit will be in float. Alot of time this feature hasnt been used for years so things are a bit sticky.

 

[TriHonu]

Have you tried putting your machine in float? This can be done by pressing your right pedal all the way forward with your toe. Normally there is resistance when doing so, but by pushing hard the pedal should lock forward and stay put and you unit will be in float. Alot of time this feature hasnt been used for years so things are a bit sticky.

Have a read through this thread

 

[[email protected]]

Have a read through this thread

Thanks for the feedback. I didn't realize the s/s had a float function. I'll have to try it. If I push the right pedal all the way forward, do the main arms float or just the QT plate ? I know I need to do some re-engineering, but prefer to do it once rather than redo it several times. I have the plow attachment points welded at the same level as the QT attachment points, which is too low for plowing with the arms all the way down. I have a triangle projecting forward (and braced rigid) from the tach plate with a chain dropping down to the plow. With the arms set at correct plowing hgt, the plow is raised by rolling back the QT. TriHonu--from the pics in your 2008 post, I can't tell how you raise and lower the plow (other than with the main arms) --same for the pic of Ken's set-up. I do like your mounting design with the slotted holes to accommodate float

 

[TriHonu]

Thanks for the feedback. I didn't realize the s/s had a float function. I'll have to try it. If I push the right pedal all the way forward, do the main arms float or just the QT plate ? I know I need to do some re-engineering, but prefer to do it once rather than redo it several times. I have the plow attachment points welded at the same level as the QT attachment points, which is too low for plowing with the arms all the way down. I have a triangle projecting forward (and braced rigid) from the tach plate with a chain dropping down to the plow. With the arms set at correct plowing hgt, the plow is raised by rolling back the QT. TriHonu--from the pics in your 2008 post, I can't tell how you raise and lower the plow (other than with the main arms) --same for the pic of Ken's set-up. I do like your mounting design with the slotted holes to accommodate float

With my setup, I can raise the blade by rolling back the Quicktach. The only time I have to raise the arm is when stacking or pushing back piles.