S185 Hydraulic leak

[cookster]

I have an S185 that is leaking hydraulic fluid at the back of the pump, at the round cylinder like part at the top rear of the pump that has 4 allen head screws securing it. I saw someone refer to this as the bobtach. Can I just take this off or will parts pop out (springs, etc). Are there o-rings I can replace? Something else? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks

 

[Bobcatdan]

The power bobtach valve is a square block that bolts to the pump outlet, the allen bolts are known to break. The block will come off with nothing flying out, but it is a bitch. You will have to drain the coolant as the lower coolant pipe will be in the way to pull the bolts out and the hose fittings can be real run to get at. I'm not sure what you mean by cyclinder like part other then maybe the electric coils that come out the side of it. ust wondering what kind of controls do you have?

 

[cookster]

The power bobtach valve is a square block that bolts to the pump outlet, the allen bolts are known to break. The block will come off with nothing flying out, but it is a bitch. You will have to drain the coolant as the lower coolant pipe will be in the way to pull the bolts out and the hose fittings can be real run to get at. I'm not sure what you mean by cyclinder like part other then maybe the electric coils that come out the side of it. ust wondering what kind of controls do you have?

I just meant there's a round cylinder part sticking out from the flat surface where the allen screws are. Appears to be a shaft barely sticking out at the very end, but I can't see it very well. It's dark now or I'd take a picture and post it. Can do that tommow if that helps. Maybe that's not the bobtach valve. If you stand at the bucket with the cab raised, the hydraulic pump is to your left. The leaking device is on the back of the pump on the left side of the pump (when looking from the bucket). It has 4 allen screws and doesn't appear to have hoses or pipes directly attched to it, but there are hydraulic lines all around that area. That's definelty where it's leaking, with the engine running it's pouring fluid. After the engine is shut down there still appears to be a small amout of fluid still seeping by for several minutes. I have hand lever drive controls, and foot operated bucket controls. It has the bobtach attachment with the fluid couplings at the left front of the cab.

 

[biggie]

Talk to you,re dealer about SL5067, and see if you,re machine is in that ser.# range. I don't think that there is an expiration date on it.

 

[cookster]

Talk to you,re dealer about SL5067, and see if you,re machine is in that ser.# range. I don't think that there is an expiration date on it.

OK, what is SL5067. Some type of warranty issue?

 

[biggie]

OK, what is SL5067. Some type of warranty issue?

It's a service letter. Maybe a warranty issue. Ckeck it out. A phone call.

 

[cookster]

It's a service letter. Maybe a warranty issue. Ckeck it out. A phone call.

Ok, I will. Thanks!

 

[cookster]

Ok, I will. Thanks!

OK, update. It's not the pump, it's the control valve that's leaking. It has ACS, gotta see if it has a one piece or 2 piece housing. Looks like from the manual it's the lift or tilt detent cover on the rear of the pump. Gotta go look now, trying to repair this without taking the pump out of the machine.

 

[Bobcatdan]

OK, update. It's not the pump, it's the control valve that's leaking. It has ACS, gotta see if it has a one piece or 2 piece housing. Looks like from the manual it's the lift or tilt detent cover on the rear of the pump. Gotta go look now, trying to repair this without taking the pump out of the machine.

The seals are most likly worn in the control vavle and leaking, the allen bolts maybe loose, but the seals most likly still need to need to be done. If oil gets into the acturators on the front the valve, it will wipe them out at $600 a pop. I reseal them in the machine. I quote the job at six hours.

 

[cookster]

The seals are most likly worn in the control vavle and leaking, the allen bolts maybe loose, but the seals most likly still need to need to be done. If oil gets into the acturators on the front the valve, it will wipe them out at $600 a pop. I reseal them in the machine. I quote the job at six hours.

Found it. The allen screws were a little loose on the bottom one, but the fluid is actually leaking from the middle one at the rear of the control valve. Got it cleaned off and fluid just keeps dripping by the seal on the middle one. So can I take these caps off and reseal with new o-rings without fear of springs and stuff popping out everywhere? Mine has the foot controls, the bottom cap on mine has the shaft sticking out with the snap ring on it. I'd like to reseal all three if I can with the pump still on the loader.

 

[7LBSSMALLIE]

Found it. The allen screws were a little loose on the bottom one, but the fluid is actually leaking from the middle one at the rear of the control valve. Got it cleaned off and fluid just keeps dripping by the seal on the middle one. So can I take these caps off and reseal with new o-rings without fear of springs and stuff popping out everywhere? Mine has the foot controls, the bottom cap on mine has the shaft sticking out with the snap ring on it. I'd like to reseal all three if I can with the pump still on the loader.

if its the control valve you talking about yes do it in machine pull center console 10 mins, for ease of access, yes if pull caps springs will fly mark steer rails pull console remove front first remove rear screws slide out as asyy might have to move some stuff to get out, i quote job at three hrs about 10 bucks in parts can usually do in less, if you bring it in clean you will save money fo cleaning time. do not forget plug and oring in lift spool, under allen head see 743 leak for explantion.

 

[cookster]

if its the control valve you talking about yes do it in machine pull center console 10 mins, for ease of access, yes if pull caps springs will fly mark steer rails pull console remove front first remove rear screws slide out as asyy might have to move some stuff to get out, i quote job at three hrs about 10 bucks in parts can usually do in less, if you bring it in clean you will save money fo cleaning time. do not forget plug and oring in lift spool, under allen head see 743 leak for explantion.

Thanks everyone. The service manual I found has pretty good pics. I'll have to disconect the linkage at the front, then slide the spools(s) out the back. Hopefully my local bobcat dealer has the parts I need. Servicing the spools once I get them out doesn't look too bad. One question, is this a prett common problem? This loader has less than 900 hrs on it, but it does sometimes sit for months without use. I use it all around my property when the need arises. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[Tazza]

Thanks everyone. The service manual I found has pretty good pics. I'll have to disconect the linkage at the front, then slide the spools(s) out the back. Hopefully my local bobcat dealer has the parts I need. Servicing the spools once I get them out doesn't look too bad. One question, is this a prett common problem? This loader has less than 900 hrs on it, but it does sometimes sit for months without use. I use it all around my property when the need arises. Thanks again for all the help.

It is common, heat and age make them harden up and fail. With so few hours it does seem weird, but it happens.

 

[cookster]

It is common, heat and age make them harden up and fail. With so few hours it does seem weird, but it happens.

Back on this tonight, trying to get the spools out. I have the 4 allen bolts in the lift block out (where the linkage attaches) The block won't come of easily, do I have remove the lock solenoids, or just leave the block in place and just pull the spools out? Don't I need to replace the seals behind the lift block? (which means i need to get it off) I can't get a wrench on the solenoids to remove them in the machine. Any ideas?

 

[7LBSSMALLIE]

Back on this tonight, trying to get the spools out. I have the 4 allen bolts in the lift block out (where the linkage attaches) The block won't come of easily, do I have remove the lock solenoids, or just leave the block in place and just pull the spools out? Don't I need to replace the seals behind the lift block? (which means i need to get it off) I can't get a wrench on the solenoids to remove them in the machine. Any ideas?

keep in mind the directiojn of lip new springs and balls for detent plastic plug and o ring in lift spool

 

[Tazza]

keep in mind the directiojn of lip new springs and balls for detent plastic plug and o ring in lift spool

The lock solenoid does need to come out, it locks the spool in place. When its oil, ensure you clean out any oil it may have gotten into it. Use compressed air and solvent, oil slows its operation down.
As stated, make sure the seals go back in the same way, the lips must point to the pressure side (the middle of the control block)

 

[cookster]

The lock solenoid does need to come out, it locks the spool in place. When its oil, ensure you clean out any oil it may have gotten into it. Use compressed air and solvent, oil slows its operation down.
As stated, make sure the seals go back in the same way, the lips must point to the pressure side (the middle of the control block)

I got everything done but the detent balls in the outer set. I got the inside set OK, but lost one of the balls in the outer set (it went flying on my last attempt to get them back in). I'm debating on pulling the lower spool back out, getting some more balls and trying again on Monday. I have to drive an hour each way to the bobcat dealer. I need this running Monday, I can probably live without the detent but I hate to leave it out. Ive been reading how some of you used zip ties, I didn't think of that. Was trying pliers, thought of hose clamps but never got the chance cause the ball went flying. Wonder if my bobcat dealer would take pity on me and put them back in. Nah....

 

[Tazza]

I got everything done but the detent balls in the outer set. I got the inside set OK, but lost one of the balls in the outer set (it went flying on my last attempt to get them back in). I'm debating on pulling the lower spool back out, getting some more balls and trying again on Monday. I have to drive an hour each way to the bobcat dealer. I need this running Monday, I can probably live without the detent but I hate to leave it out. Ive been reading how some of you used zip ties, I didn't think of that. Was trying pliers, thought of hose clamps but never got the chance cause the ball went flying. Wonder if my bobcat dealer would take pity on me and put them back in. Nah....

If you need the machine, don't worry about the balls. Keep the spring and ball in a bag till you get to the dealer. The balls are cheap, i think i paid 50c each. I worked out the zip tie after i lost one.... I tried using pliers too, but it didn't work so well.
Make sure you use a good sized cable tie so you can get it nice and tight to compress the spring/balls. Even use grease on the spring to hold the balls while doing up the cable tie.