My S160 has a leaking front axle seal. I jacked it up and found there is .050" in and out axle play so I need to adjust the play and change the seal. I have the manuals, however I have read the bearing installation section and don't see where they explain how the axle bearing play is adjusted. I see in the parts book there is #6563606 washer to take up .005 - .010". So my question is, does my .050" play necessarily mean I need to replace the cups and cones, or perhaps they could be ok and just need to order enough of the .005 and .010" washers? Thanks for the help. Bill b
S160 axle seal leak and loose bearing
- Thread starter wbecker
- Start date
I think .050" is too much to take up. The washers come as a set size, you can't stack them. For that much wear, it does sound like your bearing(s) are worn.
Sadly it is time to pull the axle and replace the bearings. Remove the axle hub first, or at least crack it, as you will need the hub to pull the axle out.
Sadly it is time to pull the axle and replace the bearings. Remove the axle hub first, or at least crack it, as you will need the hub to pull the axle out.
I took the hub off where the leak was and found some material stuck in the seal (lookked sort of like green Scotch Bright), I removed the material and have used the machine, no more leak. While I had the wheel of I got an accurate measurement of the axle bearing play. I have about .035" in and out play, and it is all 4 axles. It all operates fine, no unusual sounds etc. Looking for opinions on using it this way for a while, I only use it 25-30 hours a year. I'm waiting for an estimate from the dealer, the service manager is on vacation, any guess as to what they will estimate? Opinions on using it this way for a while? Thanks, Bill B
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2008
- Messages
- 192
Hi Bill, I don't know what the OEM spec is for end play but the fact that you have the same on all four corners sounds like you are in pretty good shape, especially since you have the leak stopped. My thought would be to keep using it but keep an eye on it. Some of the more experienced guys can give some advice on what to watch for regarding when the bearings actually need replacing. John
Thanks for the response wings5j. What do you think Tazza, .035" is less than I thought but I know tapered roller bearings should be near 0 clearance. At .035 that's .015" each, only use it 25hrs/year or so. Still have not received the estimate from the dealer. Bill B
I was told there should be no slack, so .035 is too much.
If you have a lathe, or a buddy with a lathe, you can take up that slack. See if i can explain what to do clear enough.
Inside the chain case, at the end of the axles you have sprockets, these are held in place with a big thick washer. If you remove the washer, the bolt will be very tight. You will see a mark on it showing where the end of the axle is touching the washer, you will see two circles. The inner part is where you need to have material removed from. If you check it in your lathe, and have it running true and flat, you can cut .035" from the inside part of the washer, take it a little past the inner circle part so it clears the end of the axle to sit flat. With doing this, the washer outer face will push the sprocket in .035" further to take up the extra clearance.
Essentially it should look like this:
---____---
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Note the recess is on the inside where the end of the axle would sit.
Thanks Tazza, I do have a lath and I do understand your very good explanation of the bearing adjustment works. I am up for the task on the front, but looking at the rear chain case cover, that looks very difficult, just to get the cover off, so much in the way. Still no word from the dealer, I should call again tomorrow. Thanks as always. Bill B
The rear cover shouldn't be too hard to get to.
Do pass on how much the dealer wants for the repair too, it would be interesting to know how much and how long they feel it will take.
One issue with the rear cover is the 4 big hydraulic lines are in the way and will need to be disconnected. Any one know what size caps and plugs I will need? I did finally talk to the Dealer service manager today. The consensus from him and the shop guys was, it is too much clearance, but for my home use 25 or so hours/year, they said they would use it and watch, if seals leak it needs to me fixed. It's like what wings5j thought (thanks you). My problem is, what do the bearings and races look like? So my plan is to remove 1 axle and look at the bearings, if they look good I will do what Tazza said, machine the washer to get it to where it should be. If the bearing or races look bad, I will replace them all. By the way the dealer estimated for parts and 20 hour labor, $3000, ouch! Thanks to all for opinions, it helps. Bill B
I don't know what size plugs you will need, but you could just tape them up, The oil tank is lower than the pump, so oil shouldn't keep pouring out.
Personally, i wouldn't pull the axles unless i was planning on replacing the bearings. When you remove the axle, you will pull the inner bearing, there is a good chance you will damage it during this process.
You don't need to buy bearings from the dealer. I can't remember what the last lot cost me, it was either $200 or $400 for a full set of bearings plus 4 seals.
If you do the bearings/seals, pull the axle hubs off before you start. They need to be off to seat the new seal. Crack the hub loose, but keep the bolt in place to use to pull the axle out with.
Update: I got the RT front axle out today. The bearings and outer races look absolutely flawless. So next question is, where did that .018" or so wear happen to make the axle have .035" play? I'd sure like to know what cased it and what wore. I'm thinking I may just do as Tazza said and make modify the sprocket washers to take out the play. NEXT issue: the chains, 1 front and 1 rear have rubbed the chain case bottom, just enough to make a polished look, no groove so the next thing is to replace all the chains. Any recommendations on where to get them? are there different grades to look for? Tazza was correct the read cover was not as bad as it looked, thanks Tazza for the encouragement. Thanks for all the help, Bill B PS what ever happened to antfarmer2?
Good to hear the bearings look good, i wonder if the expta play was from new, or some of it. If it was just put together without checking when it was first built? .0035 is quite a bit of wear, and to not see signs of it on the bearings is very odd.
Glad the rear cover is easy to access, i thought it was, never needed to dig in there.
Chains, i beleive bobcat use HD (heavy duty) Diamond brand, i believe most bearing or wire rope places can get it for you. Talk to them about what it is to be used for, there will no doubt be cheap and nasty chinese chain that may work, but possibly won't last. Be careful doing the chains, the sprocket teeth as they wear, can get edges like a razor blade, i have been cut to ribons before when messing with sprockets.... You can get packs of chain and con links, so you don't need to do battle with taking sprockets off and putting them on with a chain on them.
Antfarmer, last i heard from him, his wife was sick, so he had devoted all his time to her. I haven't spoken to him for at least 12 months now. But last i heard, things were still ok. Good to see people are still interested in his well being.
I have installed all new bearings and races even though the old ones look great, I thought for the price might as well go all new. I could not find any info on what the clearance should be, emailed Bobcat customer service, no response, so I used Tazza's suggestion and counter-bored the sprocket washers, I made the clearance about .002" to .004" with the new bearings and races. Installed new seals and waiting for chains to arrive tomorrow. Any opinions on what oil to use in the chain case? I'm thinking 10-30 cheap oil, max temps in this area are 100, min about 10. Anybody use tractor hydraulic oil? Thanks, Bill B
Glad you got the bearings and seals done.
As for oil, if you feel it's time to replace your hydro fluid, if not contaminated, flush your hydraulics and use tht oil in the chain case. Personally i run 20W50, as it never gets below freezing here.
You don't need egar oil, the bearings and sprockets are not moving fast, pretty well any oil will work in the chain case. Cheap motor oil is all i generally run, 20W50 is very common here.
