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Replacing Spool Seals On 763 Control Valve
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<blockquote data-quote="Fishfiles" data-source="post: 31978" data-attributes="member: 782"><p>I know I must have replaced spool seals on Bobcats at least 100 times or more on many different models and have never cut a seal by sliding it over the length of the spool , take care and go slow and all will be well , I have put a seal in backwards a few times not paying attention and you will know if you did real fast as it flows right out , the way I think about how the seal goes is by looking at the inside ring and have the inside of the v facing the valve as pressure will push the tip of the inside against the spool-----a 1/4 drive 3/16 allen socket and a 1/4 inch ractheting spinner makes this job go easier , if you don't have one a 1/4 drive socket with a piece of an allen wrench cut from a key with a lite tack weld to hold it together works real good as it has a smaller diameter than a allen socket and gets between the wall and the spool caps well , also a Gearwrench ratcheting bit driver is the ultimate tool for those allen bolts , I have used a 1/4 drive air ratchet but find it hard to get in on certain machines ------there are actually 4 balls and 2 springs , but you would never see them unless you dissassemble the centering spring on the end of the spool , but if detent is not working when you go in for a seal job be aware of that second set of balls and springs -----------you got an easy model to do as some machines you have to remove bolts holding the valve in , disconnect a few tubes and cock the valve to get the spool out the back side ---on a couple of models it is possible to grind a little half circle off the top of the plastic fuel tank filler neck and get the spool out , it does effect it any as it is 2 1/2 to 3 inches long and you only take off 3/8 -1/2 "----------another trick on newer machines that have spool lock out solinoids on the spools is to power up the electrical system by turning on the ignition after you have every thing disconnected and you can slide the whole nose off the valve with the solionids still in place which saves the time of taking the both of them in and out -----------care should be take in what seals you put back in as there are quite a few different styles that were used over the years , some are replacement upgrades and will interchange some don't , there were black quad rings , then orange plastic cups that a special installation tool was available to install the spring side seal , then tan , green , purple</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fishfiles, post: 31978, member: 782"] I know I must have replaced spool seals on Bobcats at least 100 times or more on many different models and have never cut a seal by sliding it over the length of the spool , take care and go slow and all will be well , I have put a seal in backwards a few times not paying attention and you will know if you did real fast as it flows right out , the way I think about how the seal goes is by looking at the inside ring and have the inside of the v facing the valve as pressure will push the tip of the inside against the spool-----a 1/4 drive 3/16 allen socket and a 1/4 inch ractheting spinner makes this job go easier , if you don't have one a 1/4 drive socket with a piece of an allen wrench cut from a key with a lite tack weld to hold it together works real good as it has a smaller diameter than a allen socket and gets between the wall and the spool caps well , also a Gearwrench ratcheting bit driver is the ultimate tool for those allen bolts , I have used a 1/4 drive air ratchet but find it hard to get in on certain machines ------there are actually 4 balls and 2 springs , but you would never see them unless you dissassemble the centering spring on the end of the spool , but if detent is not working when you go in for a seal job be aware of that second set of balls and springs -----------you got an easy model to do as some machines you have to remove bolts holding the valve in , disconnect a few tubes and cock the valve to get the spool out the back side ---on a couple of models it is possible to grind a little half circle off the top of the plastic fuel tank filler neck and get the spool out , it does effect it any as it is 2 1/2 to 3 inches long and you only take off 3/8 -1/2 "----------another trick on newer machines that have spool lock out solinoids on the spools is to power up the electrical system by turning on the ignition after you have every thing disconnected and you can slide the whole nose off the valve with the solionids still in place which saves the time of taking the both of them in and out -----------care should be take in what seals you put back in as there are quite a few different styles that were used over the years , some are replacement upgrades and will interchange some don't , there were black quad rings , then orange plastic cups that a special installation tool was available to install the spring side seal , then tan , green , purple [/QUOTE]
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Replacing Spool Seals On 763 Control Valve
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