Rebuild Grouser tracks

[Land-Tech]

Ok, this one is easy to explain.

This is in the early ninties and I had bought the tracks right after the machine was bought in 91. I decided on the grouser because the open self cleaniing which actually worked so so but the bolts, which are hardened carrage bolts that they call "shaker" bolt used on screeners and such. The links are cast with small bushings to take the wear.Seldom had any wear on the bushings but the bolts could be wore half way through before they break. I would change the bolts every season, no biggie.
If you run these type of tracks in dry climates , you will see a lot more wear.The pic is about 1500 to 2000 hrs and as you can see, the actual grousers are worn almost flat. I don't think I took them off during the first two seasons. I ran them on pavement and the grousers were beveled at 45degrees so when you spin they wouldn't dig in.All bets off when the pavement was hot and soft.Running so much on the pavement caused the most wear and I think you could get another 1000 hrs if kept on dirt.

Got a new mustang in 96 but did not have money for new tracks.Went to the local steel yard and had them cut 1"x1"x 12" for each grouser. Did not think about having them cut a angle at the time but not a big deal. Used 7018 rod and welded while the tracks were on the machine. Some times I ran the tracks loose like above.Easier on the tracks and machine when you got a large rock inside, but I would have to tighten up when I ran them in wet, muddy conditions or if the tire lugs were wore.
Used these for another 1000 hrs and then gave them to a neighbor to use on his 700 series bobcat.Only lost a couple of bars in that time and just rewelded.
Upgraded to newer style Grousers that had meater pads and a cast lug on the inside to give the tires more grip. Also new ones have larger links with larger bushings but same size bolts and I also got the hardened steel pads.The hardened pads really increase life and since I have gotten the Gehl, I just leave them on the Mustang. These tracks seem to help protect your tires and reduce tire wear.New ones are set up to bolt on rubber pads.
These are the best low buck upgrade you can do to a skidsteer to increase traction and enable you to get around on steep or muddy conditions in my opinion. There are other brands now, that compare or have less ground pressure.Bought them in 96, still have them in 09, I'm happy. Scott

 

[tndigger]

Did you weld the new bars on top of the old bars? Did you run a continuous bead? And did it cause any clearance or rubbing issues? On my skidsteers I installed blocks on the frame to stop the loader arms from going down all the way or the tracks would rub on the arms. I have a couple of sets of Grouser tracks also and I am pleased too. I used to run Loegering metal tracks but they don't have the "bite." I've seen tracks like this run in Florida sand and they all wear quickly,

 

[Land-Tech]

Did you weld the new bars on top of the old bars? Did you run a continuous bead? And did it cause any clearance or rubbing issues? On my skidsteers I installed blocks on the frame to stop the loader arms from going down all the way or the tracks would rub on the arms. I have a couple of sets of Grouser tracks also and I am pleased too. I used to run Loegering metal tracks but they don't have the "bite." I've seen tracks like this run in Florida sand and they all wear quickly,

I just welded the new bars to the pad with a continous bead all around, I used a large rod turned way up The tracks are cast steel so there was not a problem with two different types of metal as you have with high carbon steel on cutting edges. The new type of hardened track might be a problem. Maybe somebody with welding experience can chime in on that.
I think the steel cost around $250 including all the cuts, maybe 5 lbs of rod and two days to weld in 1996. When I ran them loose they rub on the arms, nothing serious. you can kind of see in the second pic.There was a piece of angle on the bucket that remember triming and the wheels are reversed so the clearence was good there. Scott

 

[tndigger]

I just welded the new bars to the pad with a continous bead all around, I used a large rod turned way up The tracks are cast steel so there was not a problem with two different types of metal as you have with high carbon steel on cutting edges. The new type of hardened track might be a problem. Maybe somebody with welding experience can chime in on that.
I think the steel cost around $250 including all the cuts, maybe 5 lbs of rod and two days to weld in 1996. When I ran them loose they rub on the arms, nothing serious. you can kind of see in the second pic.There was a piece of angle on the bucket that remember triming and the wheels are reversed so the clearence was good there. Scott

Thanks for the info. The Grouser tracks that I have show very little wear even though I've had them for years. When I do take them off the machine I will mark the direction and reverse the direction when they go back on. Probably doesn't really matter but I figure that they are under more load going forward. I mostly use them in the mud. I did notice one bar that has a crack in it but the bars haven't separated.

 

[Odyknuck]

I just welded the new bars to the pad with a continous bead all around, I used a large rod turned way up The tracks are cast steel so there was not a problem with two different types of metal as you have with high carbon steel on cutting edges. The new type of hardened track might be a problem. Maybe somebody with welding experience can chime in on that.
I think the steel cost around $250 including all the cuts, maybe 5 lbs of rod and two days to weld in 1996. When I ran them loose they rub on the arms, nothing serious. you can kind of see in the second pic.There was a piece of angle on the bucket that remember triming and the wheels are reversed so the clearence was good there. Scott

The wheels lug mounts have tapers on them. When you reversed them what did you do to compensate? Did the tracks fit on the 940 or did you have to modify something?

 

[skidsteer.ca]

The wheels lug mounts have tapers on them. When you reversed them what did you do to compensate? Did the tracks fit on the 940 or did you have to modify something?

The other thing to watch on the old grouser tracks is that they are narrower. The newer tires have a bead guard on the sidewalls and the older tracks were not made for these new wider tires. I have a set but had to move them from my S185 to my LS160 as they were scuffing the sidewalls from being to tight.
Ken

 

[Odyknuck]

The other thing to watch on the old grouser tracks is that they are narrower. The newer tires have a bead guard on the sidewalls and the older tracks were not made for these new wider tires. I have a set but had to move them from my S185 to my LS160 as they were scuffing the sidewalls from being to tight.
Ken

Hmm! There is no manufacture name on the ones I am buying. They are 9" in the throat and 13" at the tips. I don't know if these are going to be an issue with my tires or not. My tires are 10" at the bead guard. Your thoughts on that?

 

[Odyknuck]

Hmm! There is no manufacture name on the ones I am buying. They are 9" in the throat and 13" at the tips. I don't know if these are going to be an issue with my tires or not. My tires are 10" at the bead guard. Your thoughts on that?

I did some research and these tracks look just like the Loegering Trail Blazers. Did some one copy them or did they make a set with just rivoted pins? Theses have rivots in most al sections with the exception of some bolt in 1, 3 and 4 link section for track length adjustment.

 

[Odyknuck]

I did some research and these tracks look just like the Loegering Trail Blazers. Did some one copy them or did they make a set with just rivoted pins? Theses have rivots in most al sections with the exception of some bolt in 1, 3 and 4 link section for track length adjustment.

Found a pic of the very same set for sale. They are Identical except the ones I am buying are in a lot better shape for 500 Bucks. http://www.messicks.com/usedview.ashx?img=6982-0.jpg

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Found a pic of the very same set for sale. They are Identical except the ones I am buying are in a lot better shape for 500 Bucks. http://www.messicks.com/usedview.ashx?img=6982-0.jpg

Those are the early Loeguring tracks. The only issuse is the limited places you can adjust.
They had one shoe that bolted in on each side, so once all your other adjustments were tightened up, you could remove that shoe, loosen your other adjustments back out and start over. Once that shoe is removed and all your other adjustment points are tightened up there is nothing else you can do.
But if the pads are not worn away to much and that etra shoe is there and they fit your wheelbase for 500 you can't go too far wrong.
But just so you know you can buy a new set of Tracks Plus for $1100 and they are totally adjustable, 1" at every shoe, and you can unbolt any one shoe to shorten the track or replace a damaged part.
Ken

 

[Odyknuck]

Those are the early Loeguring tracks. The only issuse is the limited places you can adjust.
They had one shoe that bolted in on each side, so once all your other adjustments were tightened up, you could remove that shoe, loosen your other adjustments back out and start over. Once that shoe is removed and all your other adjustment points are tightened up there is nothing else you can do.
But if the pads are not worn away to much and that etra shoe is there and they fit your wheelbase for 500 you can't go too far wrong.
But just so you know you can buy a new set of Tracks Plus for $1100 and they are totally adjustable, 1" at every shoe, and you can unbolt any one shoe to shorten the track or replace a damaged part.
Ken

Yes this set (I picked up today) has several places were you can remove links including the single one you mentioned. I do not see any other ways to adjust these as they are rivoted together on all the other links. There is no second hole in each link like the later style. They were used on 2 Bobcats a 773 and an 843. They have wheel bases of 40.6" and 38.6". My 940 is 36.5" so I should be good to go. Worst case I remove one link. Darn things are sure heavy. Took 3 guys to load in my truck. Hop they don't rob to much power form the 40 HP diesel. I did look at the Tracks plus however being this is my first Skidsteer and its for home use only, I want to keep the costs down. If I find I have more uses than antisapated for the Machine then I will probaly go with an MTL in the future. I have no concrete or ashphalt at my place only 304 and soft and sometimes swampy dirt. The tracks will come in real handle when making ATV trails in the Woods. I certainly know the tires only will not work in the woods lol.

 

[tndigger]

Yes this set (I picked up today) has several places were you can remove links including the single one you mentioned. I do not see any other ways to adjust these as they are rivoted together on all the other links. There is no second hole in each link like the later style. They were used on 2 Bobcats a 773 and an 843. They have wheel bases of 40.6" and 38.6". My 940 is 36.5" so I should be good to go. Worst case I remove one link. Darn things are sure heavy. Took 3 guys to load in my truck. Hop they don't rob to much power form the 40 HP diesel. I did look at the Tracks plus however being this is my first Skidsteer and its for home use only, I want to keep the costs down. If I find I have more uses than antisapated for the Machine then I will probaly go with an MTL in the future. I have no concrete or ashphalt at my place only 304 and soft and sometimes swampy dirt. The tracks will come in real handle when making ATV trails in the Woods. I certainly know the tires only will not work in the woods lol.

These really sound like the Loegering tracks that are pinned together. When I first bought tracks for skid steers this is what we used. The pin is tapered and made to be taken out and replaced. We used to have a tool that was air over hydraulic that would push the old pin out and then push a new one in. Sometimes as the tracks got older and thinner replacing the pins would break the link. Check the inside of your tracks where the tire tread will run. If this is slick you may want to weld a bead across the crown of the track to give your tires more traction. This really helps if you are running in mud. You say the tracks are heavy thats good. I think new tracks of this type would weigh 1200-1300 lbs per side. I think that you may have to remove a link also to fit your machine. You can drive out the pins using heat and holding the backside with something solid. They are designed to pivot on the center link.

 

[Odyknuck]

These really sound like the Loegering tracks that are pinned together. When I first bought tracks for skid steers this is what we used. The pin is tapered and made to be taken out and replaced. We used to have a tool that was air over hydraulic that would push the old pin out and then push a new one in. Sometimes as the tracks got older and thinner replacing the pins would break the link. Check the inside of your tracks where the tire tread will run. If this is slick you may want to weld a bead across the crown of the track to give your tires more traction. This really helps if you are running in mud. You say the tracks are heavy thats good. I think new tracks of this type would weigh 1200-1300 lbs per side. I think that you may have to remove a link also to fit your machine. You can drive out the pins using heat and holding the backside with something solid. They are designed to pivot on the center link.

These show signs of very little use as the crossbars still have 90 degree edges and the factory grip ridges are still on the inside of the bars. I dought they weigh 1200#s. More like 400#s per side and thats a guess.

 

[stupadazole]

These show signs of very little use as the crossbars still have 90 degree edges and the factory grip ridges are still on the inside of the bars. I dought they weigh 1200#s. More like 400#s per side and thats a guess.

I called Loegering a while back to get the weight for F Series tracks for shipping purposes. About 800 lbs a set I was told.

 

[tndigger]

I called Loegering a while back to get the weight for F Series tracks for shipping purposes. About 800 lbs a set I was told.

Hey I think you guys are right. I was thinking of my VTS tracks that weigh 1200-1300 per side. 400 + or - should be right for metal tracks per side.