Rear door lock?

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Are you talking about the lock its self, or the latch?
I have repaired a latch before, but never fitted the actual lock, the door is punched for a lock but its not fitted.
 
Are you talking about the lock its self, or the latch?
I have repaired a latch before, but never fitted the actual lock, the door is punched for a lock but its not fitted.
Yup, I'm asking about being able to lock the back door, not the standard latch.
 
Yup, I'm asking about being able to lock the back door, not the standard latch.
The keyed lock that bobcat sells is not much better than no lock at all. It's easy to install. It might keep kids from throwing any junk in your fuel tank, but only if they're really lazy.
If you're into theft-prevention, a weld-on shielded hasp for a padlock is better. My local dealer is selling them also, but I don't know that they're not aftermarket.
 
Although probably better than nothing (keeps semi honest folks out), note that Bobcat's lock is also keyed with the same Bobcat key that everyone else has.
 
Although probably better than nothing (keeps semi honest folks out), note that Bobcat's lock is also keyed with the same Bobcat key that everyone else has.
I backed in to a wall really hard once with my T190, and ever since them the latch was a bugger to pop open with out using a pry bar, that worked better than any pad lock.
Try that if you are cheap.
 
I backed in to a wall really hard once with my T190, and ever since them the latch was a bugger to pop open with out using a pry bar, that worked better than any pad lock.
Try that if you are cheap.
Ron, I did the same thing and I believe I'll tack weld a chain inside and across with slack, then put a hyd. jack between the chain and door then pump. Hope it works?.
 
Hey, what ever floats yer boat.
Even my Cat is a bugger to open since I pounded on the rear door last November, you can't open it silently with out waking the dead:
http://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t178/rdj07/rdj-digi-vids/?action=view&current=Pictures1154.flv
LOL Ron, i actually laughed, sorry i know i shouldn't have, its your *new baby* well it was new not so long ago.
My 751's latch wasn't very healthy either, it had been hit and the latch assembly was cracked and bent. I opened it up and re-welded it straight, works well now, opens easily and latches equally well.
 
LOL Ron, i actually laughed, sorry i know i shouldn't have, its your *new baby* well it was new not so long ago.
My 751's latch wasn't very healthy either, it had been hit and the latch assembly was cracked and bent. I opened it up and re-welded it straight, works well now, opens easily and latches equally well.
I believe you misunderstood me Ron, the hyd. jack will be used to 'straighten' the door, then remove chain.
 
It "might" work, that's going to be one helluva jack and chain, a 250 ton press is still better.
This is actually where the old style 743 doors were great. There were no latches as such to bend, the door rested on the chassis so if you hit something the force will not damage the latch, it could bend the pins but easy to replace those.
 
This is actually where the old style 743 doors were great. There were no latches as such to bend, the door rested on the chassis so if you hit something the force will not damage the latch, it could bend the pins but easy to replace those.
I have and sell aftermarket rear door locks for the G series machines and newer, I have seen them fitted to the F series machines. The locks are much better than the lock the factory uses and it comes with a kill switch system too. Contact me by email if you would like more info on these locks.
 

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