Quick Change plate pivot pin removal

[KM2026]

Hello. Brand new to the forum.

I have a 1999 LX665. The quick change plate needs to have pins and bushings replaced as the flops around quite a bit.

1st issue: How to remove the lower pivot tins from the boom arms? I know they are tapered. Are they pounded out from the outside inward? Need heat? How hard are they in there? I don’t think they have ever been removed.

2nd issue: The top pins appear to have ob-rounded the holes in the actuator ends. But it looks like there is a thin walled bushing? Is that replaceable?

3rd: are there bushings in the change plate that the pins above go into, and are they replaceable?

 

[Shanmar]

 

[Shanmar]

There a couple pages from the parts book on Messicks.com. There are bushings inside the mounting plate at the bottom pivot and inside the cylinder end. The bottom tapered pins drive from outside in. If you find the right size bolt it will slide in the hole but be large enough to catch on edge of the taper pin to drive against. Large sledge hammer is a start. But I've already had to use heat and move the machine so that the other side of the boom is against something solid to prevent sideways "bounce" of the whole boom.

 

[KM2026]

There a couple pages from the parts book on Messicks.com. There are bushings inside the mounting plate at the bottom pivot and inside the cylinder end. The bottom tapered pins drive from outside in. If you find the right size bolt it will slide in the hole but be large enough to catch on edge of the taper pin to drive against. Large sledge hammer is a start. But I've already had to use heat and move the machine so that the other side of the boom is against something solid to prevent sideways "bounce" of the whole boom.

So, one needs to hit VERY hard with BFH.....
I don't think these pins have ever been replaced - since 1999.

As far as the bushings, will they take as much work to remove? How do those come out?

 

[Shanmar]

You got it. Bushings- no, not usually. They're metal backed with a split in them. Hardest part will be getting ahold of an edge to get started.

 

[KM2026]

I was just thinking -- "If you find the right size bolt it will slide in the hole but be large enough to catch on edge of the taper pin to drive against" So the taper pin does not extend to the outer surface of the boom? The smaller end of the taper pin is actually recessed inside the boom? I have been pounding directly against the boom, and not the taper pin then....
Graphically, is the pin like View A or View B? (sketches appx)

 

[KM2026]

In case the sketches did not come through....

 

[Shanmar]

View A is correct. I can't remember what size bolt I used. Maybe 5/8"

 

[ward]

I made a driver using 1/4 or 3/8 inch plate and it seems to me I used a grade 8 3/8" bolt and put a nut on both sides of the plate the nut on the end of the bolt fit inside the pin I ground down the out side of the plate to fit inside the hole on the outside of the arm where the small end of the pin is fit inside the arm, if I remember the nut fit just inside the hole in the pin, it worked great.

 

[ward]

also once you get ready to replace the bushing make sure if it has a hole drilled through it to get it lined up with the grease zerk hole, if you ever find that it wont take grease, take the zerk out and with your fingers run a drill bit in to clean out old dry grease and dirt, fill the hold with WD40 or such sporay lube you have and install the zerk and grease the joint run the machine and grease until fresh grease comes out.

 

[KM2026]

This really helped/confirmed things .... now. It's key info, as I was thinking the pin worked as shown in view B - so I have been beating the boom arm senseless. Actually never touched the pin itself.
I am making a puller/driver system similar to what you describe. I can use my lathe to do the turning, and make plates, special washers etc.
Good point about the grease fitting. I don't think replacement bushings have a hole when purchased.

Thanks for the help!!

 

[ward]

they normaly have a hole to transfer the grease to the pin some times they have a relief cut around the out dia in the center if the bushing incase the hole ends up not lining up grease can get to the pin, of all the fittings we had on rental skidsteers the lower bucket pin abou 1/2 the time were hard to get to take grease just due to the amount of time the bucket spends down in the dirt and most customers dont grease equipment.

 

[ward]

I don't know if you made your device but I was thinking if I had a lath I would just get some round stock about the size of the hole in the arm and turn a nipple about 1/2 to 3/4 inch long on one end to fit inside the pin and finish the other end for hammering on and maybe weld a tabcouple tabs so that when the pin let go it did not get my hand smashed by the hammer, and use a 4lb hammer

 

[KM2026]

The first one I made was impacting on the boom, not the pin. Now that I know how the design of the pin interface with the boom, I can make a new driver that impacts the pin, not the boom arm.
I was using a 3 lb hand maul. Sounds like I might need a bit more hammer.....

 

[ward]

3 lb would be ok, I just had a 16oz and 32oz ball pens and a 4lb so I said 4lb