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Pivot Pins 443B
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<blockquote data-quote="MaxW" data-source="post: 57521" data-attributes="member: 7705"><p>The dealer over on the mainland is working on an actual quote for pivot pins as well as most of the parts inside the Bob-tach. Hopefully he will email that over to me tomorrow morning. I think the local dealer has figured out what pays and what doesn't. Stocking parts doesn't pay, placing orders more than once a week doesn't pay, and expediting shipping doesn't pay. Looking up part numbers and quoting prices for parts for 19 year old machines owned by private individuals doesn't pay. Selling new machines to construction companies and rental companies pays! Given they are the only dealer in town they can get away with lumping all their parts orders into a weekly stocking order and the customers have to deal with it. I was at one of the large rental outfits that have six or more machines and I talked to the guys there about their experiences with getting parts from the dealer. He said they have to wait for their parts as well, and that's just the way it is. I think most of their customers just phone up and order what they need, don't ask how much, don't ask if it's in stock, and will just wait for a couple weeks for it so show up with the typical Bobcat price tag$$$. Ya know, I'm not trying to hack this dealer. I'm sure these days they are more interested in keeping the doors open then dealing with a guy spending a few hundred trying to restore a single old machine. Now just because I might understand this doesn't mean I like it, and I'll still be shopping around for better service, better prices, and non dealer sources for parts. As for the pins, if they are $60-$90 each, that's a little difficult for those of us unaccustomed to understanding the magic Bobcat fairy dust that they put into their special hydraulic oil and their other parts that make them worth all the dollars. I see a 2-3/4" length of 1" diameter steel with a ground taper and a single 1/2" threaded hole that isn't $20 and I have to wonder why and if there is another source other then turning it myself on the lathe? Is it forged, a specialty steel, 8000 series gear steel, X-ray tested, case hardened, through hardened? What would make this worth over $50 other then magic Bobcat fairy dust? I'm sure in time I will come to appreciate the magic that makes up Bobcat parts, but seeing as I'm still new to all this you will have to forgive me for being like a three year old and always asking WHY! Ok, enough of story time. How about another question. If you look carefully at the picture you will see bits of white paint stuck to the taper section of the pin. This goes against everything I know about the types of machine tool tapers I see on lathes and mills. It took heat and a large hammer to pop these pins. I can't know if someone had the pins out and painted the arms and got paint into the pin hole or if that is the way they came from the factory. Anyone else find residual paint on their pins? I may try doing the sleeve. Tazza, did you have any problem turning down the pin to remove the oval before you pressed on the sleeve? Is the pin material soft enough to machine or do you have a grinder on your lathe? Did you case harden the 4140 sleeve?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MaxW, post: 57521, member: 7705"] The dealer over on the mainland is working on an actual quote for pivot pins as well as most of the parts inside the Bob-tach. Hopefully he will email that over to me tomorrow morning. I think the local dealer has figured out what pays and what doesn't. Stocking parts doesn't pay, placing orders more than once a week doesn't pay, and expediting shipping doesn't pay. Looking up part numbers and quoting prices for parts for 19 year old machines owned by private individuals doesn't pay. Selling new machines to construction companies and rental companies pays! Given they are the only dealer in town they can get away with lumping all their parts orders into a weekly stocking order and the customers have to deal with it. I was at one of the large rental outfits that have six or more machines and I talked to the guys there about their experiences with getting parts from the dealer. He said they have to wait for their parts as well, and that's just the way it is. I think most of their customers just phone up and order what they need, don't ask how much, don't ask if it's in stock, and will just wait for a couple weeks for it so show up with the typical Bobcat price tag$$$. Ya know, I'm not trying to hack this dealer. I'm sure these days they are more interested in keeping the doors open then dealing with a guy spending a few hundred trying to restore a single old machine. Now just because I might understand this doesn't mean I like it, and I'll still be shopping around for better service, better prices, and non dealer sources for parts. As for the pins, if they are $60-$90 each, that's a little difficult for those of us unaccustomed to understanding the magic Bobcat fairy dust that they put into their special hydraulic oil and their other parts that make them worth all the dollars. I see a 2-3/4" length of 1" diameter steel with a ground taper and a single 1/2" threaded hole that isn't $20 and I have to wonder why and if there is another source other then turning it myself on the lathe? Is it forged, a specialty steel, 8000 series gear steel, X-ray tested, case hardened, through hardened? What would make this worth over $50 other then magic Bobcat fairy dust? I'm sure in time I will come to appreciate the magic that makes up Bobcat parts, but seeing as I'm still new to all this you will have to forgive me for being like a three year old and always asking WHY! Ok, enough of story time. How about another question. If you look carefully at the picture you will see bits of white paint stuck to the taper section of the pin. This goes against everything I know about the types of machine tool tapers I see on lathes and mills. It took heat and a large hammer to pop these pins. I can't know if someone had the pins out and painted the arms and got paint into the pin hole or if that is the way they came from the factory. Anyone else find residual paint on their pins? I may try doing the sleeve. Tazza, did you have any problem turning down the pin to remove the oval before you pressed on the sleeve? Is the pin material soft enough to machine or do you have a grinder on your lathe? Did you case harden the 4140 sleeve? [/QUOTE]
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