Sorry for the formatting. I'm not sure why my carriage returns aren't coming through, and why it all runs together. I picked up a T200 recently myself. I think it was a pretty good deal, although only because I did most of the work. The previous owner bought it at a little over 2000 hours. He changed oil and filters immediately. At around 2220 hours, his left drive motor started leaking, and he pulled it, and had a local mechanic rebuild it. He replaced all the seals, and the inner and outer bearings. At the same time, he replaced the oil and filters again (mobile 1 synthetic both times), as well as the tracks. Right at 50 hours later, the same drive moter started puking oil. His mechanic wouldn't warranty the motor, and the local bobcat deal quoted him 6k+ to replace the motor and sprocket. He sold it to me for what he owed on it. I pulled the drive motor out, and took it to a hydraulic shop, and the previous mechanic had put the shaft seal in backwards, and asembled it dry which tore and cut the seals and o rings. I put the rebuilt motor back in, and it's tight as a frogs butt. I then replaced both air filters, the main hydraulic filter, fuel filter, air cabin filter, and the heater filter. When I went to replace the case drain filters, it turns out that I have a later model where bobcat went from one filter for each motor to a single filter for both. I removed the filter, and there was a lot of galvanic corrosion between it and the clamp. I went ahead and bought two new filter assemblies from Bobcat ($40 each), and put it back to having one case drain filter per motor. At the same time, I also bought two fluid pressure switches (http://www.pvs-sensors.com/documents/BPA-BPF.pdf) for $42 each, and two light inserts for the front switch assembly. I calibrated the switch to connect at 80 psi since normal case drain pressure is supposed to be 30-50psi. Using shrink wrap, and nylon mesh tubing, I cabled the two switches up through the cab. It pulls 12v on one side from the battery, through the switches, to the lights, and then to ground. When the filter becomes clogged, and case drain pressure increases, the switch should throw, and the light should illuminate, letting me know that one of the motors is probably having issues. By separating the filters again, I don't have one motor/filter cause the other motor to blow its seals, and the pressure sensor should alert me to issues well before they cause irreversible damage. I don't have direct experience to say what I have done with the case drain filters is awesome and will save me more money down the line, but I believe it will, and gives me a little more peace of mind for only another $120 over just replacing the one filter.