New member, 843B Restoration project, general questions.

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wrenchmeister

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2020
Messages
14
Hello everyone! Two months ago I bought a pair of bobcats in desperate need of some attention.

The main project is a 1990 843B (5037620XX), which suffered an exploded u-joint coupler causing the rear pump shaft to break, damaged a couple hydraulic tubes, as well as blower and shroud damage. Aside from that it came with an extra 200lbs of grease sludge and mud coating everything under the cab and in the engine compartment, however the pins, bushings, chain drive and wheel bearings seem to be in great shape, and the hydraulic oil I've drained out looks very clean.

The side project / parts pile is a 1985 843 (5026-M-210XX) which came with the engine removed and partially disassembled with the diagnosis of a cracked cylinder head. It's no wonder why after seeing the hydraulic oil cooler completely caked in oily dirt, restricting airflow to the radiator. The rest of the skidsteer is in equally horrible shape, leaking everywhere, and extremely worn pins and bushings all around. There's no telling the condition of the rest of it, I haven't got that far into it.

The original plan was to swap the pumps from the donor to the 843B, but they are slightly different, and after seeing how easily they come apart, I'm thinking about welding the broken shaft back together. In the meantime, I have stripped all removable items from the 843B in anticipation of cleaning, painting, and resealing everything.

OK, now for the questions...
The 843B pump has 1 more connection than the 843 pump. It appears to be a case drain. Does the 843 pump not need a case drain, or does it flow through to the gear pump inlet? If so, is the drain line on the 843B just extra?
Pictures for reference:

843B with case drain -
 https://imgur.com/Hn54Oak

843 no case drain -
https://imgur.com/TTNB52p


Anyone have experience with making custom hydraulic hard lines? Is J524 tubing required or can you get a good flare with J525 tubing? Anyone tried cold roll A513 DOM tubing?

I know coupler failure seems to be a common issue. What are people doing about flywheel blower damage? Mine had significant blade and shroud damage. I'm not a fan of this design, so I was thinking about cutting off all the blades, trashing the shroud, and making a new smaller shroud to hold some electric fans. I have no education in aerodynamics, but looking at similar sized centrifugal blowers, I'm guessing the flywheel blower flowed somewhere between 2000 and 2500 CFM at 2600 rpm. I am able to fit 3 10" electric fans rated at 800 CFM each, which I am hoping would be sufficient.

I'll have to save any other questions for later. Thanks to anyone who may read this!
 
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wrenchmeister

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2020
Messages
14
Saw the FAQ and changed profile to HTML editor, but still no paragraphs. Working on the pump, going to post some info in case anyone in the future searched for it. 843B rear pump bearings: rear (engine side) bearing: BH-2220-D 1.375" ID, 1.75" OD, 1.25" Width front bearing: B-1816 1.125" ID, 1.375" OD, 1" Width Swash plate bearings, top and bottom: DC-54197 Dimensions unlisted. May cross to Eaton 70500-101 Swash plate cap O-rings: ??? Shaft oil seal: NOK ??232-22 Can't make out writing. Dimensions 1.375" ID, 2.125" OD, 0.330" Width Will add more Info as I get it.
 

flyerdan

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2009
Messages
983
Saw the FAQ and changed profile to HTML editor, but still no paragraphs. Working on the pump, going to post some info in case anyone in the future searched for it. 843B rear pump bearings: rear (engine side) bearing: BH-2220-D 1.375" ID, 1.75" OD, 1.25" Width front bearing: B-1816 1.125" ID, 1.375" OD, 1" Width Swash plate bearings, top and bottom: DC-54197 Dimensions unlisted. May cross to Eaton 70500-101 Swash plate cap O-rings: ??? Shaft oil seal: NOK ??232-22 Can't make out writing. Dimensions 1.375" ID, 2.125" OD, 0.330" Width Will add more Info as I get it.
To get any kind of formatting you have to physically enter all the html coding with the proper tags. And use the preview a lot because editing isn't available to most.
I went through your original post and added all the linefeeds where you wanted them and fixed the picture links.
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,836
To get any kind of formatting you have to physically enter all the html coding with the proper tags. And use the preview a lot because editing isn't available to most.
I went through your original post and added all the linefeeds where you wanted them and fixed the picture links.
Sadly i can't give you an answer on what to do, but if you look at the pumps side by side, if the case drain on the donor pump is all that's different, i'd like to think plugging it off will be fine. I thought the pump should have charge pressure inside it, not just case drain which that lines looks like it is due to the fact it goes straight to the tank without a relief to hold charge pressure in the pump and allow excess oil to go to the oil tank.
I bought a 753 years ago that had a repacement hydraulic pump installed, it made a horrible hum sound. The cause was eventaully found to be due to the hydraulic pump not having a hole in it for excess charge pressure from the drive pump to enter the hydraulic pump.
Sorry, can't advise on hard tube lines, that is one thing i have never bent up, i just braze rusty spots on pre-made ones.
 
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wrenchmeister

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2020
Messages
14
To get any kind of formatting you have to physically enter all the html coding with the proper tags. And use the preview a lot because editing isn't available to most.
I went through your original post and added all the linefeeds where you wanted them and fixed the picture links.
flyerdan, thank you! that looks much better.
 
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