new holland relabeled john deere electrical problems

[fordbroncodave]

My 2nd post here, thanks for having me. Just bought a john deere 7775 skid and after 2 weeks of trying to diagnose electrical issues I am seeking some reach from other deere owners or a new holland guy that has some input. Starts and runs fine in service mode, switch to start mode it dies instantly. Nothing on the instrument panel works, every once in awhile i see a flicker like a reset but nothing anymore. Anyone have a pinout or a wireing diagram in general? I have tried alot of tests and poked a power probe around and not making any progress. I posted this in the deere section and was directed here to the nh. I just replaced the alternator figuring the voltage was dropping bellow 12v (was not charging) but it made no difference. Basically i turn the key to power,with the switch in run, and about 5 seconds go by the lights all go on, digits light and fuel segments light and everything goes away like it was a self test. Unsure what to do now. Sometimes hydraulics unlock, sometimes not

 

[Mike10]

Place the service run switch in the run position and have the ign key in the off position. As you sit in the seat, watch the instrument panel. It should light up and go through the self test. If the panel does not light up then power is not getting to the panel. Power originates from a 5A fuse in the engine fuse compartment and goes to the seat switch. From the activated seat switch, power is sent to the instrument panel and will light up. If the panel lights up when you sit in the seat then continue to watch the panel and you should see all the lights go out but the seat belt and parking brake lights. Fasten the seat belt and the seat belt light should go out. If all is right with the system the unit should start. See what you find with these tests first and then we can continue if you still have problems.

 

[fordbroncodave]

Place the service run switch in the run position and have the ign key in the off position. As you sit in the seat, watch the instrument panel. It should light up and go through the self test. If the panel does not light up then power is not getting to the panel. Power originates from a 5A fuse in the engine fuse compartment and goes to the seat switch. From the activated seat switch, power is sent to the instrument panel and will light up. If the panel lights up when you sit in the seat then continue to watch the panel and you should see all the lights go out but the seat belt and parking brake lights. Fasten the seat belt and the seat belt light should go out. If all is right with the system the unit should start. See what you find with these tests first and then we can continue if you still have problems.

Switch in run, activated seat wire (previous owner hardwired it, i removed the wire and brought it to power on with ignition switch, fuel pump wire) I unplugged my doing and jumpered the wire in the plug its self in your stated order. No lights turn on and stay on, park brake nor seat belt. The only thing that stays on is the fuel level. Can i use the power wire that activates through the seat and bring it up to the cluster to what pin?

 

[Mike10]

Switch in run, activated seat wire (previous owner hardwired it, i removed the wire and brought it to power on with ignition switch, fuel pump wire) I unplugged my doing and jumpered the wire in the plug its self in your stated order. No lights turn on and stay on, park brake nor seat belt. The only thing that stays on is the fuel level. Can i use the power wire that activates through the seat and bring it up to the cluster to what pin?

Leave the ign switch off until we get power to the panel. Do you have power to the seat switch? There should be power there at all times. Behind the seat is the connector for the seat harness. You can reach it from the engine compartment or flip the seat up and get to it from below the seat. Disconnect the connector. It is a four terminal square connector but only three terminals are used. There should be power to one of the terminals in the connector half of the main harness. If there is power jump from that terminal to one of the others two. One of them should light up the instrument panel. If it still does not light up you probably have a bad panel. If the outlines around the face of the panel are a gray or silver color chances are good the panel is bad. Remove the panel and check that the connectors are in place. The seat switch should send power to the #4 terminal in the 14 terminal connector. The seat belt should send power to the #11 terminal of the same connector.

 

[fordbroncodave]

Leave the ign switch off until we get power to the panel. Do you have power to the seat switch? There should be power there at all times. Behind the seat is the connector for the seat harness. You can reach it from the engine compartment or flip the seat up and get to it from below the seat. Disconnect the connector. It is a four terminal square connector but only three terminals are used. There should be power to one of the terminals in the connector half of the main harness. If there is power jump from that terminal to one of the others two. One of them should light up the instrument panel. If it still does not light up you probably have a bad panel. If the outlines around the face of the panel are a gray or silver color chances are good the panel is bad. Remove the panel and check that the connectors are in place. The seat switch should send power to the #4 terminal in the 14 terminal connector. The seat belt should send power to the #11 terminal of the same connector.

Yes there is power to one of the wires and it is being fed to the other 2 wires. Nothing on the display. Is there a minimum battery threshold that needs to be met? I had to remove the power wire off of the intake heater because it draws the battery down too much. When the key is in the power position, before starting it, it seems the intake heater does not turn off at all. Hot enough to cook breakfast on the engine cover Replaced solenoid and still does it. Also replaced switch next to run/service switch My next question, has anyone converted to manual analog gauges? As long as thre isn't a cam/crank sensor the engine should run with no power other than fuel pump. Then apply 12v to pedal lock solenoids and everything should run perfect once alt and start are rewired as well as intake heater button

 

[Mike10]

Yes there is power to one of the wires and it is being fed to the other 2 wires. Nothing on the display. Is there a minimum battery threshold that needs to be met? I had to remove the power wire off of the intake heater because it draws the battery down too much. When the key is in the power position, before starting it, it seems the intake heater does not turn off at all. Hot enough to cook breakfast on the engine cover Replaced solenoid and still does it. Also replaced switch next to run/service switch My next question, has anyone converted to manual analog gauges? As long as thre isn't a cam/crank sensor the engine should run with no power other than fuel pump. Then apply 12v to pedal lock solenoids and everything should run perfect once alt and start are rewired as well as intake heater button

Your solution will work but you better ask your self what your life is worth. More than one person has been seriously injured or killed when entering or exiting a skid loader and they accidently hit the foot pedals causing the boom to fall and crush them. Fix it right. If you have a friend with a NH of JD NH then see if you can plug your instrument panel into their machine. It will not damage anything on the friends loader and it will tell you for sure if the problem is in the instrument panel. Since you have the over ride cold start button I am sure you have an early instrument panel that were subject to corrosion and failure. Did you disconnect the seat harness from the main harness and install a jumper between the terminals to see if the panel would light?

 

[fordbroncodave]

Your solution will work but you better ask your self what your life is worth. More than one person has been seriously injured or killed when entering or exiting a skid loader and they accidently hit the foot pedals causing the boom to fall and crush them. Fix it right. If you have a friend with a NH of JD NH then see if you can plug your instrument panel into their machine. It will not damage anything on the friends loader and it will tell you for sure if the problem is in the instrument panel. Since you have the over ride cold start button I am sure you have an early instrument panel that were subject to corrosion and failure. Did you disconnect the seat harness from the main harness and install a jumper between the terminals to see if the panel would light?

Yes unplugged it and jumpered it. Where is the parking brake sensor? Maybe thats not working? Would it be ok to remove the run/service switch so its wired for only run? Eliminate trouble areas? I know what you are saying about safety but my 96 bobcat 873 i can start the machine without even being in it and have to push a button for hydraulic unlock. I would do similar on a switch on this jd

 

[Mike10]

Yes unplugged it and jumpered it. Where is the parking brake sensor? Maybe thats not working? Would it be ok to remove the run/service switch so its wired for only run? Eliminate trouble areas? I know what you are saying about safety but my 96 bobcat 873 i can start the machine without even being in it and have to push a button for hydraulic unlock. I would do similar on a switch on this jd

Unless you wire it into the seat switch you run the risk of forgetting to set it before you exit the loader. Even if you wire it so it shuts off the solenoids when the engine is off, how many times do you exit the loader with it running. While you can push the button of the Bobcat to activate the hydraulics, it is still tied into the seat switch. There is no park brake sensor. It is just a light on the instrument panel to remind you to set or release the park brake.

 

[fordbroncodave]

Unless you wire it into the seat switch you run the risk of forgetting to set it before you exit the loader. Even if you wire it so it shuts off the solenoids when the engine is off, how many times do you exit the loader with it running. While you can push the button of the Bobcat to activate the hydraulics, it is still tied into the seat switch. There is no park brake sensor. It is just a light on the instrument panel to remind you to set or release the park brake.

Could i make a switch attached to the park brake so when the brake is pulled the hydraulics lock and when the brake is released the hydraulics operate? Its a 2 in 1 safety measure. My machine does not move at all with the brake set, i tried lol Do you have a pinout for the computer or description of each wire/function? I am going to try some more testing

 

[Mike10]

Could i make a switch attached to the park brake so when the brake is pulled the hydraulics lock and when the brake is released the hydraulics operate? Its a 2 in 1 safety measure. My machine does not move at all with the brake set, i tried lol Do you have a pinout for the computer or description of each wire/function? I am going to try some more testing

I do not like the switch on the park brake. People have a tendency to not pull the lever all the way until it latches. When that happens there is not enough tension on the brake pad so the hydrostats will over ride the parking brake causing the park brake disc to wear and before long you no longer have a parking brake that works so there is no use in setting it. You need something that, forgive me for this, that is idiot proof. You may not be the only person operating the loader and even if you are, we all occasionally have a senior moment and forget...............There are two connectors on the back of the instrument panel. The one with 14 openings is the one you need to check. There should be power at all times at the r/ltgn wire at pin 14. When the seat switch is activated you should have power at the tan/wh wire, pin 4. When the seat belt is fastened you should have power at the ltgn wire, pin 11. When you turn the key on you should have power at the o wire, pin 12. When the key is turned to the start position you should have power at the w wire, pin 10. The ground wire is the B wire at pin 13. If the instrument panel is working properly the instrument panel will send power out at pins 3 and 5 when the key is in the on position, seat switch is activated and the seat belt is fastened. The system must see things done in proper order. You must first sit in the seat, then fasten the seat belt any other order will not allow the unit to work.

 

[fordbroncodave]

I do not like the switch on the park brake. People have a tendency to not pull the lever all the way until it latches. When that happens there is not enough tension on the brake pad so the hydrostats will over ride the parking brake causing the park brake disc to wear and before long you no longer have a parking brake that works so there is no use in setting it. You need something that, forgive me for this, that is idiot proof. You may not be the only person operating the loader and even if you are, we all occasionally have a senior moment and forget...............There are two connectors on the back of the instrument panel. The one with 14 openings is the one you need to check. There should be power at all times at the r/ltgn wire at pin 14. When the seat switch is activated you should have power at the tan/wh wire, pin 4. When the seat belt is fastened you should have power at the ltgn wire, pin 11. When you turn the key on you should have power at the o wire, pin 12. When the key is turned to the start position you should have power at the w wire, pin 10. The ground wire is the B wire at pin 13. If the instrument panel is working properly the instrument panel will send power out at pins 3 and 5 when the key is in the on position, seat switch is activated and the seat belt is fastened. The system must see things done in proper order. You must first sit in the seat, then fasten the seat belt any other order will not allow the unit to work.

Well here is an update, it has 4 gauges in it now. Everything is functioning. Service/run switch is bypassed. Really wasn't all that hard but took a long time. Autogage by autometer has a kit of 3 gauges with electric sending units and i got a fuel gauge separate. As for the rest of the sensors, if they ever ground, it will trip the wires going into the computer pins. To get all sensors to work i am just going to attach orange and red 3/4" clearance marker lights for a trailer and just label each one. Also i am getting a new seatbelt with the sensor inside. Probably out of a 97 f150. Just need the drivers latch and center bench seat buckle. Way better than $170+ Also to mention, part number on my old computer is new holland in my john deere machine. Probably compatible but unknown as i could not verify. Previous owner bought machine in same condition with the same bad display so not sure if it ever worked

 

[Dean8875]

I have a 8875 that is doing the same thing. I want to fix it with all safety features working as they should since I'm new to the skidloader & sometimes my son will be running it. There's no power to the panel but I have power to the seat & seat belt. Runs fine in service but won't start in run.

 

[mhs1492]

I have a 8875 that is doing the same thing. I want to fix it with all safety features working as they should since I'm new to the skidloader & sometimes my son will be running it. There's no power to the panel but I have power to the seat & seat belt. Runs fine in service but won't start in run.

Mike 10 I hope you read this. I have a LX565 with the gold trim gauge bezel. My EIC doesn't light up at all... just a constant beep. Going by your directions in a previous post, I checked the pins with the meter. First off, I discovered that the seat and seat belt switch harness had a broken pin where it plugs together behind the seat. I clipped off the connector and stripped back all 4 wires. The larger green wire has 12.6v and the rest have zero. I believe this is proper function. I twisted all 4 wires together which I assume simulates sitting in the seat with the seat belt on. Correct? So now going to the 14 pin harness. With the key out and in any position, #14 r/ltgn reads just 2.4v with the harness unplugged and only 0.6 with it plugged in to the board. The #4 tan/wh reads zero volts. does this mean a break in the wire somewhere? The #11 lgrn reads 12.6v. With the key "on" I have 12.6v at pin #13 orange. When I turn the key to "start" #12 white has voltage. With or with out the harness plugged in to the board I have 12.6v at pin 5 and zero at pin 3. So should I have 12v at pin 14? How do I trace the #14 and #4 wires? Do you think the low pin 14 voltage is keeping the EIC from working?

 

[imans]

Having some somewhat similar problems. Background, machine is a Deere 7775 that I got without a motor. It already had 3 "override" switches in the cab, assume for seat belt, parking brake, and another, seems to lock out boom. A friend of mine swapped in V2003T out of a large commercial mower into it and fabbed what was needed to get it in. Got it back and it had been working great! A while back once, it died on me. I don't recall, I may have put the boom lock on. Used it Thursday, no issues. Stored outside as usual, and it poured Thursday night. Went to crank if Friday because I have a semi coming to my house in 20 minutes to unload and WOULDN'T START. Display was VERY dim, then eventually went out. I thought maybe dead battery so hooked that up, no difference. After "fooling around" with a bunch of different things, I was able to get it started in "service mode". Flip it to run and it would die. Start back up in service. Eventually after trying that 4-5 times it stayed running in run and used it for approximately 30-45 minutes. Turned it off, and now won't start again for nothing - doesn't even crank. Panel is now bright as before, so assume maybe fuse had bad connection or something. There seemed to be an F 04 or P 04 message on there when it fired up the 1 time. I checked all the fuses in the engine bay, seemed fine, but i replaced all anyway. I replaced the black 5 pin relay with one from auto parts store, no change. There is only 1 row of fuses in the overhead, not 2 as shown in the book, but they seem fine. If I turn the 3 override switches to the "other" position, the dash beeps so I assume those override circuits are still functioning as intended. Can't see an easy way to even reach the starter to try and either hit it to see if it is stuck or manually override solenoids and see if it will run if i hot wire it. Thoughts on where to go next? I don't care about safety things, came from an old Case that didn't have any from factory If overriding the dash will get this thing usable, I'm all for it. Hauling this without it being able to load itself on a trailer sounds difficult, and i'm waiting to hear back on the backlog from a dealer since the Deere place around the corner only does "green", not "yellow". Fearing the modifications that have been done are now going to come back and bite me as they will likely bill me 5 hours for trying to figure out whats going on with 'fixes' applied over the years...

All my problems on 565 were from the EIC board. Seat belt , locking cylinders and not starting- got a newer model EIC from ag-industrial with adapter harness and everything works!

 

[JFon101231]

Mike 10 I hope you read this. I have a LX565 with the gold trim gauge bezel. My EIC doesn't light up at all... just a constant beep. Going by your directions in a previous post, I checked the pins with the meter. First off, I discovered that the seat and seat belt switch harness had a broken pin where it plugs together behind the seat. I clipped off the connector and stripped back all 4 wires. The larger green wire has 12.6v and the rest have zero. I believe this is proper function. I twisted all 4 wires together which I assume simulates sitting in the seat with the seat belt on. Correct? So now going to the 14 pin harness. With the key out and in any position, #14 r/ltgn reads just 2.4v with the harness unplugged and only 0.6 with it plugged in to the board. The #4 tan/wh reads zero volts. does this mean a break in the wire somewhere? The #11 lgrn reads 12.6v. With the key "on" I have 12.6v at pin #13 orange. When I turn the key to "start" #12 white has voltage. With or with out the harness plugged in to the board I have 12.6v at pin 5 and zero at pin 3. So should I have 12v at pin 14? How do I trace the #14 and #4 wires? Do you think the low pin 14 voltage is keeping the EIC from working?

Having some somewhat similar problems. Background, machine is a Deere 7775 that I got without a motor. It already had 3 "override" switches in the cab, assume for seat belt, parking brake, and another, seems to lock out boom. A friend of mine swapped in V2003T out of a large commercial mower into it and fabbed what was needed to get it in. Got it back and it had been working great! A while back once, it died on me. I don't recall, I may have put the boom lock on. Used it Thursday, no issues. Stored outside as usual, and it poured Thursday night. Went to crank if Friday because I have a semi coming to my house in 20 minutes to unload and WOULDN'T START. Display was VERY dim, then eventually went out. I thought maybe dead battery so hooked that up, no difference. After "fooling around" with a bunch of different things, I was able to get it started in "service mode". Flip it to run and it would die. Start back up in service. Eventually after trying that 4-5 times it stayed running in run and used it for approximately 30-45 minutes. Turned it off, and now won't start again for nothing - doesn't even crank. Panel is now bright as before, so assume maybe fuse had bad connection or something. There seemed to be an F 04 or P 04 message on there when it fired up the 1 time. I checked all the fuses in the engine bay, seemed fine, but i replaced all anyway. I replaced the black 5 pin relay with one from auto parts store, no change. There is only 1 row of fuses in the overhead, not 2 as shown in the book, but they seem fine. If I turn the 3 override switches to the "other" position, the dash beeps so I assume those override circuits are still functioning as intended. Can't see an easy way to even reach the starter to try and either hit it to see if it is stuck or manually override solenoids and see if it will run if i hot wire it. Thoughts on where to go next? I don't care about safety things, came from an old Case that didn't have any from factory If overriding the dash will get this thing usable, I'm all for it. Hauling this without it being able to load itself on a trailer sounds difficult, and i'm waiting to hear back on the backlog from a dealer since the Deere place around the corner only does "green", not "yellow". Fearing the modifications that have been done are now going to come back and bite me as they will likely bill me 5 hours for trying to figure out whats going on with 'fixes' applied over the years...