New Holland lx865

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Topcat1952

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Apr 26, 2023
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I am interested in making repairs to my machine, I have the dealer manuals but they lack data on the Hydrostatic pumps... I do not want to pull the pump out until I have information on it and be able to ID it.... I believe it is Eaton but I cannot see any numbers to see group or type and figuration... Does anyone know of someone who can assist me on how to 1. Id pump manufacturer. 2. locate a manual for the pump, This unit is a lx865 1999...... Any help would be greatly appreciated... Thanks..
 

Shanmar

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Aug 27, 2022
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Eaton is correct. 40.6cc pump displacement and I'm pretty sure this is the manual. chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/hydraulics/pumps/pumps-documents/eaton-medium-pressure-closed-circuit-servo-controlled-piston-pump-model72400-repair-information-e-pupi-ts011-e-en-us.pdf

If you poke around/google eaton 72400 you'll find parts manual also.

You can get reman pumps on the internet for $15-1800. Don't know what your symptoms are but how do you know if it's a pump or motor issue. If you get into all 4 components it'll get pricy even rebuilding yourself. Also, pretty sure same pumps on LX865, LX885, LS180 (not LS180.b or L185-they're newer).
 
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Topcat1952

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Shanmar, I got to thank you for the data... I looked at it this morning and it appears to be at least close... In all honestly, I am a mature guy (72 ) and a bit to immature to concede I do not know what I am doing.... Kinda think if man made it man should be able to fix it mentality...
The problem with the unit is it works fine until it gets warmed up....Then the left side loses all functions but by reversing the steering lever back and forward it will start again and work until another case acts up....So, I believe it to be in the servo affecting the charge pressure... Big guess, honestly have little clue... I am hoping manufacturer's manual would assist me in such... Again I do that you for the information and wish I could buy lunch for it... Roger
 
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Topcat1952

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Evening Shanmar, I did reply to one and thank you much.... My computer skills are hit and miss and do not understand a Direct mesage...rog
 

Shanmar

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Ok, see attached. There should be 3 files. Hopefully they're not too big. You'll have to print them off and get the pages in the correct order. Merry X-mas. 😁
 

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Shanmar

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For the other message I sent you, I think you might find it by clicking the envelope to the right of your name in the top right. I think, but I'm not totally sure.
 
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Topcat1952

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Thanks again and again, the pdf are outstanding, I wish I had the skill set to find them myself on the internet...... I started playing with my machine yesterday checking hyd pressures... Charge pressure actually, 300 recommended I'm stilling at 250 and it goes to 0 on each drive movement.... Do not understand that, I would suspect to drop on each movement and rebound quickly... Happens on both sides so that may be normal, but I do not think so... The sensor is a N/C sensor and that would mean it would flash a Hyd light on the panel while being used... No doubt I have a lot of reading to do....
Your assistance has been greatly appreciated I am sure it is obvious to you I need the help... If you get any more thought or data just send the link... I will review and download it....thanks again rog
 

Shanmar

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Ok, your problem sounds like more than seals in one servo. Those pdfs were pages I scanned in. So, you probably won't find them on the internet. If I remember tonight, I'll see if there's more info that may be useful. I know there's testing info.
 

Shanmar

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The 2 attached files is the diagnostic info I have. We're probably up to a steak dinner now. :LOL:
 

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Topcat1952

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Apr 26, 2023
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Ok, your problem sounds like more than seals in one servo. Those pdfs were pages I scanned in. So, you probably won't find them on the internet. If I remember tonight, I'll see if there's more info that may be useful. I know there's testing info.
I am beginning to think you work for New Holland, Testing data, a magic word.... Once in my lifetime, it was a valuable asset to have Equipment shop manuals.... I used often, today the manufacturer has seen a profit holding most information for two reasons... 1 Making most things not repairable and having to replace, 2 With the internet making scanning and reproducing S/manuals with limited importance.... Things have changed too much.... At my age, I could say a lot about that but mostly it's pretty simple... I once read a book on manufacturing, that pretty much says Idea, to selling idea, to start manufacturing, to selling " valuable product", to pricing, to cost cutting, to limiting ( or out souring), to selling total product is the last bit of value it had.... Thrown away because bigger and better just arrived....
Now on the stake dinner, you bet, name state, and location and I will be more than pleased to send a gift card....
I like the testing part.... rog
 

Shanmar

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Most of my SSL experience comes from having a farm and putting 35-40K hours combined on an LX885, LS180, L170, L185, and Deere 6675 (basically a NH L565). And we did all our own repairs. What part of the world you in?
 
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Topcat1952

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So, I assume your background is farm equipment with all types of repairs.... Blue Colar work, I respect you more already... My argument and admittedly biased, is mostly growing up making a living at whatever paid the most... Started mixing mortar by hand at the age of 14 for bricklayers to start by 7 am... Every summer while in high school... During my 4 years of high school, played baseball and basketball until 5 PM then worked at a grocery store until 10 pm..... Do not feel sorry for me I love it, even the work... I finished my career with 25 years at AT&T and pouring concrete driveways on the weekends... In 2002 both of my knees were so bad they had to be replaced and became disabled...Still, no regrets from me, I have a painful hard time walking only short distances but I refuse a wheelchair... EGO... I have a great family two Sons and one Daughter, two Grandsons 21 and 14.... All live in Idaho, I live in Juliette Ga, I retired here in 2002 from the Midwest...
A great life, I feel ashamed and at times embarrassed to have lived such a great carefree environment... I feel my grandsons are not going to have that or ever know what I am talking about....
Still would like to pop for lunch, for your assistance... I can send a few bucks to your PayPal account if you allow me... I do that for my grandsons all the time... lol
Meanwhile, while I will fix this skid steer over time, my son wants it and it needs to be in decent shape... I do not think or I know he would ever be able too... A truly great person but lives his life as he sees it... all good. Let me know about lunch..Rog
 
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Topcat1952

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Apr 26, 2023
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Ok, your problem sounds like more than seals in one servo. Those pdfs were pages I scanned in. So, you probably won't find them on the internet. If I remember tonight, I'll see if there's more info that may be useful. I know there's testing info.
on this, my real thoughts here is pressure relief valves in the hyd motor itself, the problem comes and stops with temp mostly... Got to know before I pull the pump out...
 

Shanmar

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"Charge pressure actually, 300 recommended I'm stilling at 250 and it goes to 0 on each drive movement"
This statement is an issue. If you read the section on charge pump pressure testing it tells you what you should see and the possible causes. It would be worse with warm oil because the warmer, thinner oil leaks by more in the pumps and motors thus requiring more charge flow to keep the system charged.
At this point, my guesses would be (in cost increasing order:
1 - charge pressure relief valve
2 - charge pump wear/damage
3 - overall system wear (or some component) leading to excessive internal leakages that the charge pump can't keep up with.

What is the hydraulic oil? And is it in good condition?

No need to send me anything. I'm just sharing what's relatively easy at my fingertips.
 
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Topcat1952

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2023
Messages
10
"Charge pressure actually, 300 recommended I'm stilling at 250 and it goes to 0 on each drive movement"
This statement is an issue. If you read the section on charge pump pressure testing it tells you what you should see and the possible causes. It would be worse with warm oil because the warmer, thinner oil leaks by more in the pumps and motors thus requiring more charge flow to keep the system charged.
At this point, my guesses would be (in cost increasing order:
1 - charge pressure relief valve
2 - charge pump wear/damage
3 - overall system wear (or some component) leading to excessive internal leakages that the charge pump can't keep up with.

What is the hydraulic oil? And is it in good condition?

No need to send me anything. I'm just sharing what's relatively easy at my fingertips.
I do understand your thoughts... Changed oil, went from aw32 to 46, as internal leakage maybe with oil ring seal bad... wear internal parts, do not think so... comes and goes.... never seen wear do that and the hydrostatic is a piston pump.... Remember after losing only the left side I can recharge the pump by moving the joystick back and forward, it may or may not take off.... I like the idea of pressure relief on one side or the other, would cause effect in both directions ( as it does) and temp would also play a role in it... I would order one valve and switch around, but I think they are over two hundred a pice... That's my direction anyway... The diagram you sent shows both valves and flow... again I could be dead wrong.... If I can test and get it down to that pump I would pull and disassemble... I still have to rule out drive pump on the chains... Have not done that as yet....

I believe Number 3 is the issue, just have to find which component....
 

Shanmar

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Aug 27, 2022
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67
It sounds like you're on your way. I don't have an easy way to decide between bad pump vs motor other than the case drain test the book describes.

One note on oil--and I don't think this is your current problem--10w30 is what is called for in it. One time I blew a hose on the weekend and drained the system. All I had readily available was 15w40, so in it went. It ran, but was somewhat chattery. Changed back to 10w30 and was ok. I have used high quality (stuff that meets some modern day manufacturer specs-not cheap tractor supply hydraulic oil) universal tractor hydraulic oil without issue. It has hot and cold viscosity specs similar to 10w30. Guess I'm saying I don't know I would leave the 46 in long term.

Good luck.
 
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