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General Bobcat Skidsteer Forum
My new ride..an old 720
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<blockquote data-quote="kilohertz" data-source="post: 51647" data-attributes="member: 6974"><p>Hello John, Dan, Tazza, Harry et al...</p><p>Thanks for the welcome and for the help with this machine. Well, this may be my final installment for this thread as it's getting quite long and I have another question re: electrical and besides that......today......da dada daaaaaa... I fixed it!!!! <img src="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopModules/AdverForums/ImageGallery/emotion-1.gif" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> <img src="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopModules/AdverForums/ImageGallery/emotion-2.gif" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>I decided to get into it deeper and pull off the head on the suspect cylinder(s) and before I did that, thought I better check the valve clearances. So, here is something important to remember when troubleshooting a compression problem. No matter how much ATF/MMO or water you inject into the engine, it simply will not fix tight valves that have no hope in hell of closing as they are WAY out of adjustment. I have no idea how the exhaust valve tappet got so tight but that was it. I set it for .016" and the intake for .008" per the Wisconsin repair manual and put it all back together, without pulling the head, did a compression test and it was up to 60 PSI at crank, the others were still 90 psi, fired it up and it ran so much better. The vacuum gauge still showed some flutter...for about 30 seconds, then after the valves had a few minutes to find their happy place, seated properly and away she went. Full power, no bogging, vacumm gauge smooth as a cucumber with no signs of flutter, even at idle. I drove it down the road and cleared my neighbours driveway, then brought it back home and taught my 10 year old son how to run it and he moved some snow around the property all by himself.</p><p>I'm so happy and relieved it was so simple. I sure learned a lot on this part of the adventure. Now I can relax and go through the rest of the maintenance schedule, filter changes etc. and get ready for spring.</p><p>So, I will ask the question here, but if I should open another thread let me know....When I shut off the machine, the alternator light stays on, sometimes it flutters, sometimes it goes out, it depends on where the engine stops. I can just hit the starter and then it will go out. I have adjusted the regulator as the charge voltage was 16VDC when I got it, it's now back to 14VDC.</p><p>I am listening to your suggestions with open ears.</p><p>Cheers</p><p>Paul</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="kilohertz, post: 51647, member: 6974"] Hello John, Dan, Tazza, Harry et al... Thanks for the welcome and for the help with this machine. Well, this may be my final installment for this thread as it's getting quite long and I have another question re: electrical and besides that......today......da dada daaaaaa... I fixed it!!!! [IMG]https://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopModules/AdverForums/ImageGallery/emotion-1.gif[/IMG] [IMG]https://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopModules/AdverForums/ImageGallery/emotion-2.gif[/IMG] I decided to get into it deeper and pull off the head on the suspect cylinder(s) and before I did that, thought I better check the valve clearances. So, here is something important to remember when troubleshooting a compression problem. No matter how much ATF/MMO or water you inject into the engine, it simply will not fix tight valves that have no hope in hell of closing as they are WAY out of adjustment. I have no idea how the exhaust valve tappet got so tight but that was it. I set it for .016” and the intake for .008” per the Wisconsin repair manual and put it all back together, without pulling the head, did a compression test and it was up to 60 PSI at crank, the others were still 90 psi, fired it up and it ran so much better. The vacuum gauge still showed some flutter...for about 30 seconds, then after the valves had a few minutes to find their happy place, seated properly and away she went. Full power, no bogging, vacumm gauge smooth as a cucumber with no signs of flutter, even at idle. I drove it down the road and cleared my neighbours driveway, then brought it back home and taught my 10 year old son how to run it and he moved some snow around the property all by himself. I'm so happy and relieved it was so simple. I sure learned a lot on this part of the adventure. Now I can relax and go through the rest of the maintenance schedule, filter changes etc. and get ready for spring. So, I will ask the question here, but if I should open another thread let me know....When I shut off the machine, the alternator light stays on, sometimes it flutters, sometimes it goes out, it depends on where the engine stops. I can just hit the starter and then it will go out. I have adjusted the regulator as the charge voltage was 16VDC when I got it, it's now back to 14VDC. I am listening to your suggestions with open ears. Cheers Paul [/QUOTE]
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My new ride..an old 720
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