My 553 won't move!

[rodbuilder]

I bought an early 553 Bpbcat a few weeks ago that wasn't running, and after putting a new injection pump and transfer pump on it we finally got it running like a clock today! BUT - everything works on it except for that it won't move!!! The serial number on this machine is: 513012935 and it has Bobcat's infamous and troublesome "BICS" computer on it. Lucky me - huh? NOTE: This machine has been sitting for at least 3 years, but we have reason to believe (trailer reg.) that it's been sitting since 2009. So here's what it's doing and what we found so far: 1. The machine starts and runs fine and the bucket and boom work fine. 2 . There is NO sound when you press the "traction lock" switch/button. 3. We removed the control panel and checked for power at the switch and other wires and there is NO power to either wire going to the traction lock switch. 4. The lap bar has new nylon blocks on, but they aren't touching the lap bar at all. 5. When we ran a hot wire to on of those wires and grounded the other one we still got no audible indication that the TL system was releasing. 6. A look at the BICS shows all the lights are on. 7. I called a local Bobcat service dept. who told me to take off the cover plate between my ankles and inspect the TL solenoid? I HATE this electronic crap on these Bobcats!!!! HELP!!! And any good help on this will be sincerely appreciated.

 

[Hotrod1830]

Checking the traction lock solenoid is sound advise. Easier yet, disconnect the electrical connector and hook a test light up to it. Press the traction lock button. If the test light lights up, the solenoid needs attention. If not, you need to check wiring for broken wires and such.
Having sat for so long, it could be stuck/rusted.

 

[rodbuilder]

Checking the traction lock solenoid is sound advise. Easier yet, disconnect the electrical connector and hook a test light up to it. Press the traction lock button. If the test light lights up, the solenoid needs attention. If not, you need to check wiring for broken wires and such.
Having sat for so long, it could be stuck/rusted.

Read No. 3. I already checked the power to the switch and there isn't any. We also ran a hot wire to the leads and heard nothing. Now what? How do we disable that stupid traction lock solenoid? Sounds more like a "motivation" lock to me!!!! It burns my butt that Bobcat thinks all this crap is necessary anyway. I told a big-wig at Bobcat corporate if they'd just use the lap bar and put a switch on it that would shut off the engine when it was raised they wouldn't need all this other garbage. So how do we go about eradicating that stupid TL solenoid, and where is it at????

 

[Tazza]

Read No. 3. I already checked the power to the switch and there isn't any. We also ran a hot wire to the leads and heard nothing. Now what? How do we disable that stupid traction lock solenoid? Sounds more like a "motivation" lock to me!!!! It burns my butt that Bobcat thinks all this crap is necessary anyway. I told a big-wig at Bobcat corporate if they'd just use the lap bar and put a switch on it that would shut off the engine when it was raised they wouldn't need all this other garbage. So how do we go about eradicating that stupid TL solenoid, and where is it at????

The BICS system was actually pretty good, the BOSS was the nightmare.
What lights are lit on the bics box when ou are in the seat, seat bar down? are they all on?
If so, it could be a bad relay that powers the brake solenoid. For now, there is no harm removing the solenoid and holding the brake off with a hose clamp. You can then at least use it then sort the issues out.

 

[rodbuilder]

The BICS system was actually pretty good, the BOSS was the nightmare.
What lights are lit on the bics box when ou are in the seat, seat bar down? are they all on?
If so, it could be a bad relay that powers the brake solenoid. For now, there is no harm removing the solenoid and holding the brake off with a hose clamp. You can then at least use it then sort the issues out.

All the lights are on. We found a couple wires in the switch panel that were bit in two by mice (I guess), but everything else works on the machine, other than the stupid lock solenoid. I'm going to do better than the temporary fix- I'm going to modify that goofy solenoid by drilling it and the lock pin, tapping it 14-20, and screwing a bolt into it, so I can adjust it to an "unlock" position!!! If Bobcat can take years to screw it up I'm the man who can take 45 minutes fix it!!! More on this later.

 

[rodbuilder]

The BICS system was actually pretty good, the BOSS was the nightmare.
What lights are lit on the bics box when ou are in the seat, seat bar down? are they all on?
If so, it could be a bad relay that powers the brake solenoid. For now, there is no harm removing the solenoid and holding the brake off with a hose clamp. You can then at least use it then sort the issues out.

.................and YES I do have a manual I bought online, but the wiring diagrams for these things aren't color-coded, which makes no sense at all. Do you know color codes and positions for the wires inside the switch panel up on the cage?

 

[Hotrod1830]

.................and YES I do have a manual I bought online, but the wiring diagrams for these things aren't color-coded, which makes no sense at all. Do you know color codes and positions for the wires inside the switch panel up on the cage?

If all the lights are on, the TL should engage. Is it receiving voltage/ground?(test light on both pins; yes,I know you jumped it) If yes, replace it. If no, either trace the problem or bypass it.
I have a early 553, and the TL button does nothing when you press it. As in someone had it bypassed. All the BICS lights are on when I lower the seat bar, and the TL solenoid clicks and I'm off.

 

[Hotrod1830]

If all the lights are on, the TL should engage. Is it receiving voltage/ground?(test light on both pins; yes,I know you jumped it) If yes, replace it. If no, either trace the problem or bypass it.
I have a early 553, and the TL button does nothing when you press it. As in someone had it bypassed. All the BICS lights are on when I lower the seat bar, and the TL solenoid clicks and I'm off.

BTW, all those safety features are in place because people kept getting themselves killed operating skidloaders in a stupid way.
And then trying to sue bobcat for a bunch of $$$$$$$.
Lawyers told them to start putting safety devises in to prevent improper use.
If they modify the safety devices, it is on them, not the manufacturer.

 

[rodbuilder]

The BICS system was actually pretty good, the BOSS was the nightmare.
What lights are lit on the bics box when ou are in the seat, seat bar down? are they all on?
If so, it could be a bad relay that powers the brake solenoid. For now, there is no harm removing the solenoid and holding the brake off with a hose clamp. You can then at least use it then sort the issues out.

Tazza - Ok....... I made a traction-lock bypass gizmo out of a big washer and a lock collar and we have the machine moving, BUT I gave my friend a new aftermarket seat to put in it and now the foot pedles are dead!!! Lucky me! It has that disastrous magnetic switch on the seat with THREE wires going to it. Here's what he told me when I got back from an errand: He showed me that the seat switch was mounted to one of the corner mounting bolts for the seat, which doesn't make any sense to me because there is NO way for anything to flex or move there, when you sit in the seat. So that's where he put the switch on the new seat. Naturally there are couple lights out on the computer, in the center of it I think. I believe he managed to break the switch because there WAS a small rib in it that I believe matched up with a groove i that 1" round thing that a big bolt holds on. HELP - We don't understand how this switch works if nothing can move to "activate it? How can I disable this p.o.s. seat switch? The lap bar interlock IS working and that's all we need on this thing. The other "safety garbage is just that - garbage. I was hoping that when we set out to change the seat that we'd either find no switch or the plunger-type switch like what's on a lawn mower. Yeah right! Next time I buy a Bobcat to resell I'm throwing the new seat inside it and will let the new owner have theses headaches!!! HELP!!!! What wires on the seat switch can I connect together to get this thing working again?

 

[Tazza]

Tazza - Ok....... I made a traction-lock bypass gizmo out of a big washer and a lock collar and we have the machine moving, BUT I gave my friend a new aftermarket seat to put in it and now the foot pedles are dead!!! Lucky me! It has that disastrous magnetic switch on the seat with THREE wires going to it. Here's what he told me when I got back from an errand: He showed me that the seat switch was mounted to one of the corner mounting bolts for the seat, which doesn't make any sense to me because there is NO way for anything to flex or move there, when you sit in the seat. So that's where he put the switch on the new seat. Naturally there are couple lights out on the computer, in the center of it I think. I believe he managed to break the switch because there WAS a small rib in it that I believe matched up with a groove i that 1" round thing that a big bolt holds on. HELP - We don't understand how this switch works if nothing can move to "activate it? How can I disable this p.o.s. seat switch? The lap bar interlock IS working and that's all we need on this thing. The other "safety garbage is just that - garbage. I was hoping that when we set out to change the seat that we'd either find no switch or the plunger-type switch like what's on a lawn mower. Yeah right! Next time I buy a Bobcat to resell I'm throwing the new seat inside it and will let the new owner have theses headaches!!! HELP!!!! What wires on the seat switch can I connect together to get this thing working again?

In the past i have just disabled the switch, the newer machines don't have a s eat switch.
Pull the sensor and magnet, rotate the magnet in teh sensor till the light comes on, note it's position, keep rotating, note that position, rotate back to the middle of these two points and glue the magnet in place.

 

[bobbie-g]

In the past i have just disabled the switch, the newer machines don't have a s eat switch.
Pull the sensor and magnet, rotate the magnet in teh sensor till the light comes on, note it's position, keep rotating, note that position, rotate back to the middle of these two points and glue the magnet in place.

Let me add a few words to Tazza's here. On the seat switch, the magnet doesn't actually rotate to actuate the switch, it slides up and down (the magnet in the lap bar rotates, I believe, and that may be what Tazza is referring to). The two machines I've had (751, 763) had the seat switch on the right rear seat mounting bolt (under your right cheek as you're seated). The switch is only accessible under the seat with the cab lifted up. I never could figure out how to jumper the three wires to make the system think the seat switch was activated (and I've never heard on this forum how to do it). To follow Tazza's recommendation, take that particular seat bolt loose (note that as the rear of the seat is depressed, the rear two bolts slide up and down, one of them having the switch magnet attached). The seat bolt unscrews and the bolt and concentric magnet come out together. The magnet will rotate around the bolt, so there is a plastic guide (cheesy, mine are broken) mating with a slot in the magnet to keep the magnet in the correct position. I just align the magnet with that broken tab by eyeball. The switch itself in a semicircular housing is mounted to the cab "floor board". Tazza is suggesting slide the magnet in the switch while watching the "seat" indicator. Position the magnet in the center of its observed "seat activated" travel and glue it in place. This may involve removing the switch/magnet from the normal position, gluing it, then securing the whole assembly somewhere else under the cab floor. I've never done that. I just add or remove washers under the magnet to position it so the switch works properly, but I think that puts me in the minority on this forum. I will freely admit that stinkin' seat switch has caused a lot of issues with folks, including me on several occasions, last one being a week ago. The switch is actually a pretty nicely designed switch, fully encapsulated Hall effect switch so it's not affected by dirt or moisture. As a smart dude I used to work for would say, "Lots of things works, but not everything works out." IMO, the seat switch just did't work out for Bobcat. ---Bobbie-G

 

[rodbuilder]

Let me add a few words to Tazza's here. On the seat switch, the magnet doesn't actually rotate to actuate the switch, it slides up and down (the magnet in the lap bar rotates, I believe, and that may be what Tazza is referring to). The two machines I've had (751, 763) had the seat switch on the right rear seat mounting bolt (under your right cheek as you're seated). The switch is only accessible under the seat with the cab lifted up. I never could figure out how to jumper the three wires to make the system think the seat switch was activated (and I've never heard on this forum how to do it). To follow Tazza's recommendation, take that particular seat bolt loose (note that as the rear of the seat is depressed, the rear two bolts slide up and down, one of them having the switch magnet attached). The seat bolt unscrews and the bolt and concentric magnet come out together. The magnet will rotate around the bolt, so there is a plastic guide (cheesy, mine are broken) mating with a slot in the magnet to keep the magnet in the correct position. I just align the magnet with that broken tab by eyeball. The switch itself in a semicircular housing is mounted to the cab "floor board". Tazza is suggesting slide the magnet in the switch while watching the "seat" indicator. Position the magnet in the center of its observed "seat activated" travel and glue it in place. This may involve removing the switch/magnet from the normal position, gluing it, then securing the whole assembly somewhere else under the cab floor. I've never done that. I just add or remove washers under the magnet to position it so the switch works properly, but I think that puts me in the minority on this forum. I will freely admit that stinkin' seat switch has caused a lot of issues with folks, including me on several occasions, last one being a week ago. The switch is actually a pretty nicely designed switch, fully encapsulated Hall effect switch so it's not affected by dirt or moisture. As a smart dude I used to work for would say, "Lots of things works, but not everything works out." IMO, the seat switch just did't work out for Bobcat. ---Bobbie-G

bobbie-g Thanks for the get-back. Before I got back here to see your answer I must have called 10 equipment dealers and 1 Bobcat dealer to get the scoop on this goofy setup! I actually ran a cross a Bobcat dealer in Wisconsin who would tell me anything about this deal! I thought that my buddy messed up the sensor and was preparing to drive the 110 mile round trip to get one at our dealer, but made a fly-by to my his place, where the loader is, and we plugged the switch back in and did as Tazza told me to do - except for as YOU said - moving it in and out. And BINGO - the light came on and we were in business! After we got it working we used a hose clamp and put it around the sensor, which clamped the magnet in place, the stuffed it in back of the seat on top of that shelf. Unfortunately none of Bobcat's designers were here with us, or I would have shoved it someplace else!!!! I must be a glutton for punishment for even thinking about buying another Bobcat to resell ! After building 4 rat rods - three of them from the ground-up - I can't help but wonder how anyone can conjure up so many ways to screw up the design of something so simple as a skid loader. Let's see...............we need ONE hydraulic pump, a manifold for it to distribute the fluid to the 1. lift, 2. tilt, 3. right turn, and 4. left turn functions. Then we need a few 12 volt electrical circuits: 1. Ignition/start switch; 2. fuel shut-off solenoid, 3. headlights/tail lights; 4. a momentary switch for the glow plugs and, oh yeah, - 5. ONE interlock switch that goes on the lap bar, so that when you raise the lap bar it shuts off power to the fuel shutoff solenoid - thereby killing the engine!!!! That would be what - 4 solenoids, a couple switches, and couple miles of wire (!!) that Bobcat could save their money on the next time their (god I HATE this word!) "engineers" designs one of these over-engineered cluster f#@%s? It might also be prudent (not to mention the big "plus" in customer service ratings) if they'd stop that bastardizing the specs on things like axle bearings and seals, so we could buy them from an auto parts store, or industrial supply company, or off Ebay. At $45,000-$80,000 for a new Bobcat, one would think that they already made enough money off of us when we buy a new one! Not to mention all the headaches they'd save US, when we refuse to pay someone a doctor's wages to work on it!!! Just a guess here - but I'd say that if Bobcat would make their "engineers" go into the field and actually WORK on one of these things for a couple years, maybe they'd think twice about doing 1/2 the goofy stuff they do to them? I wonder wow the CEO of Bobcat would like it when he heard that his neurosurgeon just received his medical degree!!!!!!!! Building machines with parts that we can only buy from the manufacturer does NOT make their machines user-friendly, it only serves to encourage the end-user to look at another manufacturer's equipment. I feel like that dude in the Verizon commercial!!! HEY BOBCAT - CAN YA' HEAR US NOW?????? Big thanks to you, Tazza and all the others who helped me get this thing under control again.

 

[Tazza]

bobbie-g Thanks for the get-back. Before I got back here to see your answer I must have called 10 equipment dealers and 1 Bobcat dealer to get the scoop on this goofy setup! I actually ran a cross a Bobcat dealer in Wisconsin who would tell me anything about this deal! I thought that my buddy messed up the sensor and was preparing to drive the 110 mile round trip to get one at our dealer, but made a fly-by to my his place, where the loader is, and we plugged the switch back in and did as Tazza told me to do - except for as YOU said - moving it in and out. And BINGO - the light came on and we were in business! After we got it working we used a hose clamp and put it around the sensor, which clamped the magnet in place, the stuffed it in back of the seat on top of that shelf. Unfortunately none of Bobcat's designers were here with us, or I would have shoved it someplace else!!!! I must be a glutton for punishment for even thinking about buying another Bobcat to resell ! After building 4 rat rods - three of them from the ground-up - I can't help but wonder how anyone can conjure up so many ways to screw up the design of something so simple as a skid loader. Let's see...............we need ONE hydraulic pump, a manifold for it to distribute the fluid to the 1. lift, 2. tilt, 3. right turn, and 4. left turn functions. Then we need a few 12 volt electrical circuits: 1. Ignition/start switch; 2. fuel shut-off solenoid, 3. headlights/tail lights; 4. a momentary switch for the glow plugs and, oh yeah, - 5. ONE interlock switch that goes on the lap bar, so that when you raise the lap bar it shuts off power to the fuel shutoff solenoid - thereby killing the engine!!!! That would be what - 4 solenoids, a couple switches, and couple miles of wire (!!) that Bobcat could save their money on the next time their (god I HATE this word!) "engineers" designs one of these over-engineered cluster f#@%s? It might also be prudent (not to mention the big "plus" in customer service ratings) if they'd stop that bastardizing the specs on things like axle bearings and seals, so we could buy them from an auto parts store, or industrial supply company, or off Ebay. At $45,000-$80,000 for a new Bobcat, one would think that they already made enough money off of us when we buy a new one! Not to mention all the headaches they'd save US, when we refuse to pay someone a doctor's wages to work on it!!! Just a guess here - but I'd say that if Bobcat would make their "engineers" go into the field and actually WORK on one of these things for a couple years, maybe they'd think twice about doing 1/2 the goofy stuff they do to them? I wonder wow the CEO of Bobcat would like it when he heard that his neurosurgeon just received his medical degree!!!!!!!! Building machines with parts that we can only buy from the manufacturer does NOT make their machines user-friendly, it only serves to encourage the end-user to look at another manufacturer's equipment. I feel like that dude in the Verizon commercial!!! HEY BOBCAT - CAN YA' HEAR US NOW?????? Big thanks to you, Tazza and all the others who helped me get this thing under control again.

Sorry, i did mean that it moved up and down, not rotating like they do on the seat bar does.
Glad you got it up and running.
The safety devices are good in theory, the problem is with age, things rust and then stop working properly. The idea is to keep the stupid people safe, or do their best to, possibly for liability reasons.

 

[LRYBS]

Checking the traction lock solenoid is sound advise. Easier yet, disconnect the electrical connector and hook a test light up to it. Press the traction lock button. If the test light lights up, the solenoid needs attention. If not, you need to check wiring for broken wires and such.
Having sat for so long, it could be stuck/rusted.

On a 553 that was intermittent, we found the ground lug on the left side of the engine loose. It was so loose I'm surprised it worked at all. I wonder if the grandson hadn't loosened it.

 

[1996763Scott]

Sorry, i did mean that it moved up and down, not rotating like they do on the seat bar does.
Glad you got it up and running.
The safety devices are good in theory, the problem is with age, things rust and then stop working properly. The idea is to keep the stupid people safe, or do their best to, possibly for liability reasons.

i also just had trouble with my seat switch but it was the ( what i will call the receiver part of the switch) the magnet was fine. Came here to find solutions and seen most went for the pto switch conversion. Well i looked up at the lap bar switch and seen it is the same as the seat switch allbeit the magnet it different. I took the seat bar down and unplugged the switch and moved it to the seat switch harness and viola the seat light on the bics lit up. They are still available and i ordered one. I figured while i had it down i would just glue the magnet in place and be done with the lap switch. Alls good there but i couldn,t stand not figuring out the seat switch. So i said if it,s resistance you want i got resistance, and i took a squelch switch out of a cb radio i had, hooked it in to the wires for the switch (receiver) ( dont need all wires hooked) and turn turned the switch and pop the seat light came on and the selinoids clicked. I was on my way. I do still have the new lapbar switch on the way also.