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<blockquote data-quote="jonesallu" data-source="post: 134117" data-attributes="member: 24131"><p>I'm in the same boat. A seized engine. If you try to start it after the seize, you risk doing a lot of damage that may ruin the engine. Definitely drain the oil. I had 6 inches of antifreeze in the bottom. The intake manifolds can leak if old and drop antifreeze in the engine including the cylinder bores. It took me a few months of soaking (your soak method is perfect) to get mine to "break loose". I don't recommend the shock load if you plan on overhauling the engine. 1.7 L cranks are hard to find.</p><p></p><p>If you have time and are a scrapper (like me), you can find most of the parts to overhaul it on eBay. Most copies of the engine are in German and British Saabs. The US copies are industrial engines and can be found, but I think they are way over priced. The early 70s Ford Capri V6 is the same engine except with two more cylinders (90 mm bores). The parts for the heads share the same as the Capri and early 80s Bronco II's and others. I've found hard parts like valves, bearings, etc. very inexpensive. New soft parts are definitely more $ than normal. But I'm buying new as I don't want to risk a problem with a 40 year old seal. Rockauto.com has a lot of the parts but again, you need to look to other interchangeable applications. Don't let rust in the engine scare you - most of it will clean up with elbow grease when you overhaul it. If you're lucky, the bores will hone out.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]6300[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]6301[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>To answer your question about other engines to mate up, we need to know if you're running a torque convertor (fantastic setup IMO) or the variable sheave.</p><p></p><p>It's a great unit and it's easy implementing tons of upgrades. For example I'm working on fuel injection for better cold starts.</p><p></p><p>Good luck,</p><p>Al Jones</p><p>Brookings, SD</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jonesallu, post: 134117, member: 24131"] I'm in the same boat. A seized engine. If you try to start it after the seize, you risk doing a lot of damage that may ruin the engine. Definitely drain the oil. I had 6 inches of antifreeze in the bottom. The intake manifolds can leak if old and drop antifreeze in the engine including the cylinder bores. It took me a few months of soaking (your soak method is perfect) to get mine to "break loose". I don't recommend the shock load if you plan on overhauling the engine. 1.7 L cranks are hard to find. If you have time and are a scrapper (like me), you can find most of the parts to overhaul it on eBay. Most copies of the engine are in German and British Saabs. The US copies are industrial engines and can be found, but I think they are way over priced. The early 70s Ford Capri V6 is the same engine except with two more cylinders (90 mm bores). The parts for the heads share the same as the Capri and early 80s Bronco II's and others. I've found hard parts like valves, bearings, etc. very inexpensive. New soft parts are definitely more $ than normal. But I'm buying new as I don't want to risk a problem with a 40 year old seal. Rockauto.com has a lot of the parts but again, you need to look to other interchangeable applications. Don't let rust in the engine scare you - most of it will clean up with elbow grease when you overhaul it. If you're lucky, the bores will hone out. [ATTACH type="full" width="258px"]6300[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" width="264px"]6301[/ATTACH] To answer your question about other engines to mate up, we need to know if you're running a torque convertor (fantastic setup IMO) or the variable sheave. It's a great unit and it's easy implementing tons of upgrades. For example I'm working on fuel injection for better cold starts. Good luck, Al Jones Brookings, SD [/QUOTE]
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