Major hydro leak need help.

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hyp7

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Mar 27, 2010
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34
I have a 763 c series SN 512221495. Im getting a leak around either D1-lift spool detent or D2-tilt spool centering spring. It looks like its coming from the D1 though. Not sure what to do. The shop manual shows how to take it out, so no problems there except for the springs and balls.Can I do this with the control valve in the machine or do I need to pull the whole valve? Is there a seal kit or o-ring kit I need to order? What do I replace?
Thanks gene
 

Tazza

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You should be able to do all this with the control valve in the machine. If you remove the allan bolts on the rear cap, push the spool from the front and it should keep the cap and springs/balls in place. Replace the seals on both the front and rear, no point just doing the rear one where the leak is and have the front one leak later on.
There is a seal kit available for each spool section, you may even be able to get them from a seal shop, but if you get the one from the dealer, you know its right. Ensure they go on the correct way!!!! Some control blocks use quad rings, they go on either way, but others use propper seals that have one lip, it must face the pressure side (towards the inside on the control block) if you get it wrong, it will leak.
Its not a hard job, just really fiddly. It may even help to drain what hydraulic oil you can before you start. You won't loose all of it, but you will get a reasonable stream coming out.
 
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hyp7

Active member
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
34
You should be able to do all this with the control valve in the machine. If you remove the allan bolts on the rear cap, push the spool from the front and it should keep the cap and springs/balls in place. Replace the seals on both the front and rear, no point just doing the rear one where the leak is and have the front one leak later on.
There is a seal kit available for each spool section, you may even be able to get them from a seal shop, but if you get the one from the dealer, you know its right. Ensure they go on the correct way!!!! Some control blocks use quad rings, they go on either way, but others use propper seals that have one lip, it must face the pressure side (towards the inside on the control block) if you get it wrong, it will leak.
Its not a hard job, just really fiddly. It may even help to drain what hydraulic oil you can before you start. You won't loose all of it, but you will get a reasonable stream coming out.
So tazza just take the allen screws out and pull the valve out ? This is the valve that also has the c-clip on the end.
thanks for the help
 

Fishfiles

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Feb 8, 2007
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So tazza just take the allen screws out and pull the valve out ? This is the valve that also has the c-clip on the end.
thanks for the help
Don't mess with the c-clip , the balls and spring for the detent (float) are inside that larger cap , you want to make sure that cap doesn't slide off the spool , like Tazza said push the boom spool ( the one with the c-clip ) from the front and when you do grab the back , there are two 3/16 allen headed screws on the front on two on the rear of each spool , a 1/4 drive 3/16 allen socket makes this job easier , also if you have a 1/4 drive round spinner ratchet then once you break the bolts with the ratchet it saves alot of time and energy to spin the bolts out and then during reassembly back in till snug then finish them off with a ratchet , different serial number designs of the 753 you will have to take different things out the way you will probally have to undo the fuel tank fill hose and the pressure hose with the 90 fitting on the end of it that goes into the gear pump to be able to get the spool all the way out the valve ----------I can do both spools in 2 hours if all goes well , I'd say it could take you 3-4 if you never done it before -------------you don't really need a complete controll valve kit as it will come with alot of stuff you don't need and usually cost about $90 , all you need is 4 spool seals and I would put two new rubber boots for about $10 , it is possible you machine is newer and there will be two orings under the plates in the front that hold the seals in place , you would know if this is the case before disassembling as there will be two electric solinoids mounted on the front side of the valve where the spools come out , you could have the black quad rings , orange colored cup seals ( no longer used and replaced ) cream , green or purple colored seals , all the different colors will be replaced with the green ones , as mentioned make sure you put the lip side of the seal facing in towards the oil , if not you will be doing it again --------good luck and let everyone know how it goes
 
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hyp7

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Mar 27, 2010
Messages
34
Don't mess with the c-clip , the balls and spring for the detent (float) are inside that larger cap , you want to make sure that cap doesn't slide off the spool , like Tazza said push the boom spool ( the one with the c-clip ) from the front and when you do grab the back , there are two 3/16 allen headed screws on the front on two on the rear of each spool , a 1/4 drive 3/16 allen socket makes this job easier , also if you have a 1/4 drive round spinner ratchet then once you break the bolts with the ratchet it saves alot of time and energy to spin the bolts out and then during reassembly back in till snug then finish them off with a ratchet , different serial number designs of the 753 you will have to take different things out the way you will probally have to undo the fuel tank fill hose and the pressure hose with the 90 fitting on the end of it that goes into the gear pump to be able to get the spool all the way out the valve ----------I can do both spools in 2 hours if all goes well , I'd say it could take you 3-4 if you never done it before -------------you don't really need a complete controll valve kit as it will come with alot of stuff you don't need and usually cost about $90 , all you need is 4 spool seals and I would put two new rubber boots for about $10 , it is possible you machine is newer and there will be two orings under the plates in the front that hold the seals in place , you would know if this is the case before disassembling as there will be two electric solinoids mounted on the front side of the valve where the spools come out , you could have the black quad rings , orange colored cup seals ( no longer used and replaced ) cream , green or purple colored seals , all the different colors will be replaced with the green ones , as mentioned make sure you put the lip side of the seal facing in towards the oil , if not you will be doing it again --------good luck and let everyone know how it goes
Ok got the spool out not real hard. As taz & fish said, I removed both allen bolts on both ends and pushed it out the backside. Now how do get the front boot off ? I dont want to go prying on things and mess something up. There was only one orange seal on the shaft that a chunk was missing. Is there also a seal on both ends of the block and on the front under the dirt boot?
Thanks again for all the help!!!!
 
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hyp7

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Messages
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Ok got the spool out not real hard. As taz & fish said, I removed both allen bolts on both ends and pushed it out the backside. Now how do get the front boot off ? I dont want to go prying on things and mess something up. There was only one orange seal on the shaft that a chunk was missing. Is there also a seal on both ends of the block and on the front under the dirt boot?
Thanks again for all the help!!!!
Got everything going!! actually pretty easy, just was unsure on a few things . But everything is good to go. I bought the kit that does 2 spools for 23.00 so not to bad.
Thanks for the help guys!!!!!
 

Tazza

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Got everything going!! actually pretty easy, just was unsure on a few things . But everything is good to go. I bought the kit that does 2 spools for 23.00 so not to bad.
Thanks for the help guys!!!!!
Good to hear you got it done, even better than its now leak free!
 

Easthill

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Aug 7, 2011
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Good to hear you got it done, even better than its now leak free!
Hello all. I am new to the forum and also replacing the spool seals on 2003 T200. i couldnt slide the spool shaft out the back side of the pump as it is hitting the 2 main drive hydro lines. i removed the lines from the inside but they are just a tick to rigid to move out of the way to clear the spool. Do i need to unbolt the pump so i can cock it sideways or will I need to do something else? Thanks in advance to the wonderful helpful people that share their knowledge and experience for all to learn from. Without you I wouldnt think of trying this on my own. Brian
 

Tazza

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Hello all. I am new to the forum and also replacing the spool seals on 2003 T200. i couldnt slide the spool shaft out the back side of the pump as it is hitting the 2 main drive hydro lines. i removed the lines from the inside but they are just a tick to rigid to move out of the way to clear the spool. Do i need to unbolt the pump so i can cock it sideways or will I need to do something else? Thanks in advance to the wonderful helpful people that share their knowledge and experience for all to learn from. Without you I wouldnt think of trying this on my own. Brian
Being a tracked machine i guess the hoses are in a different place. Is there any way to pry the hoses out of the way? There really is no other way. The hoses are no doubt 4 wire, that's why they are so stiff, age also makes them even tougher to move....
 

Easthill

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Aug 7, 2011
Messages
7
Being a tracked machine i guess the hoses are in a different place. Is there any way to pry the hoses out of the way? There really is no other way. The hoses are no doubt 4 wire, that's why they are so stiff, age also makes them even tougher to move....
Thanks for the reply Taz. I can manipulate the closest hose so the spool will clear but i would need another set of hands to hold the second hose down . its very tight and Im not even sure if its possible. I was hoping someone familiar with this model could chime in.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Jan 20, 2006
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Thanks for the reply Taz. I can manipulate the closest hose so the spool will clear but i would need another set of hands to hold the second hose down . its very tight and Im not even sure if its possible. I was hoping someone familiar with this model could chime in.
Sometimes it is possible to get at the hose and tie it into shape with rope or wire or a ratchet strap it into submission. They can be a bear in a tight spot.
Ken
 

OldMachinist

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May 24, 2006
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Sometimes it is possible to get at the hose and tie it into shape with rope or wire or a ratchet strap it into submission. They can be a bear in a tight spot.
Ken
"I was hoping someone familiar with this model could chime in. "
To get someone familiar with a track loader to read about your problem you'll need to start a new thread in the compact tracked loader section.
 
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