m600 stopped moving

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njwbd

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Sep 12, 2018
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I bought a M600 the other day. starts right up. worked fine for 2 days. today it just died. I found that the main harness disconnected. plugged it back in, started right up. but now it wont move. the lift and tilt are fine, but it wont drive. hopped off found the variable speed line broke off and was leaking everywhere. I don't know much about these machines, but is this why it wont drive at all? I thought this would just not activate the faster speed. how do I fix this? is there a parts diagram? when I opened the access panel the line was lying there broken off and the cap was off. how did the line even connect to the base I can slide the outer cover off nothing holding it on. the cap was lying there but I think there was another part in there that may have gotten lost? I have pics but don't know how to post them. What do I do???
 

foton

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Mar 1, 2018
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plug it off where the hose that runs to the speed control lever is and check your hydro levels. It should operate in low speed then pretty sure. Well my 500 would so I am making a guess on that assumption.
 
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njwbd

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Sep 12, 2018
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plug it off where the hose that runs to the speed control lever is and check your hydro levels. It should operate in low speed then pretty sure. Well my 500 would so I am making a guess on that assumption.
thanks for your reply the bucket operation still works with no issues. is that froma different fluid reservoir? why would that work but not the drive wheels if fluid was low. anyone have a write up on how the system works? I need to learn what I'm looking at...
 

foton

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Mar 1, 2018
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thanks for your reply the bucket operation still works with no issues. is that froma different fluid reservoir? why would that work but not the drive wheels if fluid was low. anyone have a write up on how the system works? I need to learn what I'm looking at...
I believe that yours is a common sump like mine, if you look the speed control level has tubes that feed it are small maybe that is adding enough restriction even though it is leaking that it has enough backpressure to operate the lift. It could be that the belt has oil on it making it slip from the leak, you need to fix the leak first and go from there.
 
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njwbd

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Sep 12, 2018
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I believe that yours is a common sump like mine, if you look the speed control level has tubes that feed it are small maybe that is adding enough restriction even though it is leaking that it has enough backpressure to operate the lift. It could be that the belt has oil on it making it slip from the leak, you need to fix the leak first and go from there.
the variable speed line is broke off completely. if I push or pull the lever is squirts fluid. my skid has the dual sheath set up for the drive belt at this point the outer sheath will slid right off nothing holding it in place. I just don't know why the drive wheels aren't engaging. I understand that the roto-swivel is missing completely so the variable speed wont work, but does that line act as a clutch for the regular drive belt as well? I wish I could post pics
 

6brnorma

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Jul 13, 2011
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the variable speed line is broke off completely. if I push or pull the lever is squirts fluid. my skid has the dual sheath set up for the drive belt at this point the outer sheath will slid right off nothing holding it in place. I just don't know why the drive wheels aren't engaging. I understand that the roto-swivel is missing completely so the variable speed wont work, but does that line act as a clutch for the regular drive belt as well? I wish I could post pics
From what you are describing….it sounds like the lock ring that holds the cap in place failed. This is fairly common as the groove in the shaft/piston wears and eventually the lock ring can not hold the outer half of the variable speed sheave in place. When it fails it will almost always break the swivel or the line fitting. A combination of the oil on everything and no pressure on the sheave there is not enough tension for the belt to drive the jackshaft = no movement. You need parts manual & service manual to do this job…..it's not something I can describe to you without part numbers and correct part names.
 
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njwbd

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Sep 12, 2018
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From what you are describing….it sounds like the lock ring that holds the cap in place failed. This is fairly common as the groove in the shaft/piston wears and eventually the lock ring can not hold the outer half of the variable speed sheave in place. When it fails it will almost always break the swivel or the line fitting. A combination of the oil on everything and no pressure on the sheave there is not enough tension for the belt to drive the jackshaft = no movement. You need parts manual & service manual to do this job…..it's not something I can describe to you without part numbers and correct part names.
thank you. I think you are right, but I cant find the swivel at all. like, its gone! could it have flown out? called bobcat. they want about 650 for a new rotoswivel assembly and the various o rings and c clip things. I cant figure how to post pics. I saw in the other thread about posting a link to a website, but how do I just post a picture of what I have going on
 
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njwbd

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Sep 12, 2018
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thank you. I think you are right, but I cant find the swivel at all. like, its gone! could it have flown out? called bobcat. they want about 650 for a new rotoswivel assembly and the various o rings and c clip things. I cant figure how to post pics. I saw in the other thread about posting a link to a website, but how do I just post a picture of what I have going on
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6brnorma

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Jul 13, 2011
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It's all there….broken at the neck…exactly what I would expect. Half is on the line and half is inside the shaft. You need to pull the shaft and give me some pics of the shaft itself….condition of overall shaft and specifically the lock ring groove. So….remove the large lock ring you see inside the inner sheave….expose as much of the shaft as you can, put the cap back on with a new lock ring then use the outer sheave as a 'slide hammer' to pull the 'roto-swivel' assembly out.
 
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njwbd

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Sep 12, 2018
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It's all there….broken at the neck…exactly what I would expect. Half is on the line and half is inside the shaft. You need to pull the shaft and give me some pics of the shaft itself….condition of overall shaft and specifically the lock ring groove. So….remove the large lock ring you see inside the inner sheave….expose as much of the shaft as you can, put the cap back on with a new lock ring then use the outer sheave as a 'slide hammer' to pull the 'roto-swivel' assembly out.
Wow. You're a great person. I was about to order $700 worth of parts because I thought it was gone. It compresses that much? It doesn't seem like that hydraulic line could reach the broken part. Anyway. I'll get to it on Sunday. I work next 2 days till late. Do I need any special tools to get it out? I'm very green here on this thing.
 
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njwbd

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Sep 12, 2018
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Wow. You're a great person. I was about to order $700 worth of parts because I thought it was gone. It compresses that much? It doesn't seem like that hydraulic line could reach the broken part. Anyway. I'll get to it on Sunday. I work next 2 days till late. Do I need any special tools to get it out? I'm very green here on this thing.
There are 2 different setups that look almost the same to me in the diagrams. Do I have the roto swivel inside or roto swivel outside set up? I thought I had a M600 but that comes with the ioutside version. The dealer is telling me I have the inside version which according to the manual come on the 610? Thoughts?
 

6brnorma

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Jul 13, 2011
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There are 2 different setups that look almost the same to me in the diagrams. Do I have the roto swivel inside or roto swivel outside set up? I thought I had a M600 but that comes with the ioutside version. The dealer is telling me I have the inside version which according to the manual come on the 610? Thoughts?
You have the standard variable speed sheave on wisconsin engines. Give me a serial number from under the seat (under your legs as you set in the machine)….I can tell you when it was built and model number. Yes there are some special tools if you are able to rebuild the assembly but it will be cheaper. Also, I think you can buy the entire assembly new for less then $700…..just gotta go to the right dealer….they all ship. If you will send me a FAX number I can send you some of these pages to help you better explain what parts we are talking about. You can e-mail me if you like….address is in my info.
 
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njwbd

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Sep 12, 2018
Messages
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You have the standard variable speed sheave on wisconsin engines. Give me a serial number from under the seat (under your legs as you set in the machine)….I can tell you when it was built and model number. Yes there are some special tools if you are able to rebuild the assembly but it will be cheaper. Also, I think you can buy the entire assembly new for less then $700…..just gotta go to the right dealer….they all ship. If you will send me a FAX number I can send you some of these pages to help you better explain what parts we are talking about. You can e-mail me if you like….address is in my info.
The plate under the seat is missing. Just 4 old rivets there.
 

alchemysa

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Mar 29, 2016
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203
I emailed you
To post pictures into your messages you need to copy and paste the 'HTML for WEBSITES' link from tinypic. (Not the 'IMG code for Forums'). Yes I know it doesn't sound right but trust me it works.
It seems the variable sheave is a regular problem with this model. Hopefully you can fix yours but if you can't you can ditch the hydraulics altogether and just bolt or weld the sheave to a fixed position. Heres my solution...
http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=95991
This link will take you to a 610 parts thread. It also has details of where to go for FREE MANUALS and PARTS DIAGRAMS for the 610. I often find parts diagrams are more useful than workshop manuals.
http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=99315
(You'll need to copy and paste any links).
 

jrad235

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Sep 16, 2018
Messages
6
You have the standard variable speed sheave on wisconsin engines. Give me a serial number from under the seat (under your legs as you set in the machine)….I can tell you when it was built and model number. Yes there are some special tools if you are able to rebuild the assembly but it will be cheaper. Also, I think you can buy the entire assembly new for less then $700…..just gotta go to the right dealer….they all ship. If you will send me a FAX number I can send you some of these pages to help you better explain what parts we are talking about. You can e-mail me if you like….address is in my info.
Mine hasn't stopped moving, but I was unable to re-seal the sheave assembly and it is stuck in "low gear". Can you give me a head's up on which Bobcat dealers might have this in stock? My local one says it is NLA. At this point I would "Love" to pay $700 and get full function back. Clarification: I took mine completely apart, replaced all the o-rings I could see, and it continues to pour oil out the front and back of the assembly while running.
 
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