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Message: <blockquote data-quote="tech.35058" data-source="post: 133320" data-attributes="member: 14347">hours on my machine, gee, I don't know. hour meter is built into the "(electronic control thing)". I think mine is wonky, says something like 127 hours. I think it read more than that at one point, but reset itself or something. ( this machine belonged to a timber harvesting operation at one point, so a lot of the safety  stuff has been bypassed, some of the bottom skid plates are missing, etc)  A little background on me, I worked for a heavy equipment dealer in the engine rebuild shop for about 30 years, then we had some "business slowdown", & I was farmed out to the hydraulic department, pump, motor & valve shop for about 3 months. This does _not_ make me an expert on hydraulics. We did work on what ever came in, regardless of brand, but not power steering units, and there was one brand that we always just replaced, the supervisor guys said we could not rebuild them successfully.( those might have been Char-lynn?)  I did learn that they are not all "just alike inside".  The very expensive seal kit does not contain all the seals ( we often reused some of the tiny o-rings not included in the kit), and the main shaft seal is often not included in the kit.  I don't think we had issues getting internal parts, but if it got to the point of replacing pistons & barrels,  it was cheaper to obtain a reman pump or motor.   With this particular pump,the shaft seal is accessible without disassembling the case. ( with some, the seal is installed from the inside, then the rest of the parts go in, sort of on top of it)I don't think the shaft comes out of these pumps without a complete disassembly.regarding a "(seal inside that is most important)" ... this probably goes back to "they are not all the same inside".   I looked at the illustrated parts list for this pump  at [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.messicks.com/nh/148043[/URL]just to refresh my memory. This shaft seal is all there is. it holds precharge pressure( which actually lubricates the pump mechanism) & case drain pressure.. unless maybe he meant the O-ring seals  around the head of the  case. After reviewing the parts diagram, I see there is a washer in the cavity with the shaft seal, so it is possible to shift the lip in case of a wear groove. Messicks also has a diagram showing the msc  o-rings in the hydraulic lines with part numbers  and descriptions. I must confess that I replaced some of the high pressure (Straight Thread O-Ring aka"STOR") boss seals with generic "butyl rubber o-ring kit" seals. these failed, so then I paid attention to the descriptions. I got an assortment of Gates duro90 seals via E-bay, & later a "no-name" STOR-boss o-ring kit (from Precision Seals in Fultondale, Al ) I also had a collection of msc "left over seals" that could not be returned to the parts dept from my professional  mechanic days.   When I realized that I was actually going to have to deal with this leak, I actually purchased the seal kits for the pumps. I just went & looked, these kits do include the shaft seals ( not knowing for sure, I also purchased them separately, so my kits are still "complete" ). and like most of the seal kits we used at work, the part numbers are not printed on the seals, nor tagged. I was kind of afraid to start this, because of all the times a customer would send in their pump or motor they just wanted to seal up the leaks, we would open it up & the internal parts would be just lumps of brass gravel. How much was  mine leaking ... Well, the bolt holding one of the pumps came loose, so a lot of the excess was leaking from the pump mounting hole, not any coming out the dipstick. but it was extremely expensive to keep filling up the reservoir.  OK, cab jack ... I assume you have seen the pictures in the service manual, looked up the part number & checked availability?  around $1000, but no longer available for any price? the dealer has one, but he would not loan, nor rent it to me. ( well, I wont loan nor rent _my_ tools).I tried  to pull the cab over with a farm tractor with a front end loader & a drum full of cement on the back, but  the leverage was wrong, the rear wheels would lift, & then  no more pull.  I looked at the pictures in the  Service Manual, then made a cardboard pattern, the made the top bracket. You may notice my bottom bracket is different  from the one in the service manual. you also notice my bolt holding it on is severely bent, so if you decide to make your own, dont copy mine. it needs to have that hook for the part of the operation where the jack is in tension.  My big turn buckles , I do not know what they were originally intended for, I found them at a discount tool store ( K & K Sales,  Cullman, Al ). they also had the longer pins to go through the square tubing I used to join the two together. and yes, I needed both of them, one by itself would not have enough travel  to fully tip the cab.    Think happy thoughts ... CE</blockquote>

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