Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
New profile posts
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Other Brand Skidsteer Forums
New Holland Skidsteer Forum
LX885 blowing hydraulic oil out of engine to transmission gearbox
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
Message
<blockquote data-quote="tech.35058" data-source="post: 133232" data-attributes="member: 14347"><p>I assume you pulled both servo "pumps" from the gear case on the flywheel end of the engine.</p><p>If one shaft seal failed due to old age, the other is probably the same age, & due to fail at any time, so replacing both seals would be appropriate. There is a "new & improved" seal available.</p><p> This is not a terrible job after you get the pumps out. it seems like the seals are retained by a snap ring in the pump housing, then pull the seal with a sheetmetal screw end on a slide hammer, or just pull it out with a pair of pliers or "vice grips". it seems like one of mine, "the failed one" just fell out after I got the screw in it. As I recall that seal bore was a couple of thousandths larger than the other so I used some retaining compound around the outside of the seal the second time I did it ( yes, the first time, I rolled the lip of the seal, & flipped out the "garter spring", but it was inside the housing, & I had not made this mistake before , so I missed it. After a very short run time, I had to do it again. It seems like there might have been a thin spacer washer in there with the seal, or maybe I just remember wishing there was ... if there is a seal lip groove worn on the shaft you can try to shift the where the lip rides on the shaft by shifting the location of the spacer to the other side of the seal, or maybe not.</p><p> My machine is admittedly a ragged old beast. While you have the pumps out, replace every o-ring boss seal you can get to. be sure to use only "duro-90" or what ever they call the extra firm o-rings for "straight thread o-ring fittings" ( where the fittings thread into the pumps.</p><p>Did I mention that my machine is a "rag"? if your steel lines have been replaced with hoses, this would also be a good opportunity to put those "(braided nylon webbing sleeves)" that are recommended for mining operations on all the hoses. ( I got bulk stock off Ebay)</p><p> If this has been leaking long, be sure to check the condition of the rubber rear motor support (bushing?) if it collapses, the pumps rest on the cross member & wear holes in the cross member & the pumps. ( mine was developing cracks in the cross member as well. So after I cleaned it to the point that I could weld them up with out setting the machine on fire, I did. Service manual says to disconnect the battery when welding.) If you have the battery hold down clamp loose, be sure you don't "trap" it when you re-secure the engine.</p><p>Personally, I drilled a few additional drain holes so that the liquid "stuff" could maybe drain out of the bottom of the machine.</p><p> I fabricated a "cab jack" for my machine, and used a hoist arrangement for the pumps. I guess I am a wimp, I cannot imagine pulling them out through the under seat hole.</p><p>Good Luck!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tech.35058, post: 133232, member: 14347"] I assume you pulled both servo "pumps" from the gear case on the flywheel end of the engine. If one shaft seal failed due to old age, the other is probably the same age, & due to fail at any time, so replacing both seals would be appropriate. There is a "new & improved" seal available. This is not a terrible job after you get the pumps out. it seems like the seals are retained by a snap ring in the pump housing, then pull the seal with a sheetmetal screw end on a slide hammer, or just pull it out with a pair of pliers or "vice grips". it seems like one of mine, "the failed one" just fell out after I got the screw in it. As I recall that seal bore was a couple of thousandths larger than the other so I used some retaining compound around the outside of the seal the second time I did it ( yes, the first time, I rolled the lip of the seal, & flipped out the "garter spring", but it was inside the housing, & I had not made this mistake before , so I missed it. After a very short run time, I had to do it again. It seems like there might have been a thin spacer washer in there with the seal, or maybe I just remember wishing there was ... if there is a seal lip groove worn on the shaft you can try to shift the where the lip rides on the shaft by shifting the location of the spacer to the other side of the seal, or maybe not. My machine is admittedly a ragged old beast. While you have the pumps out, replace every o-ring boss seal you can get to. be sure to use only "duro-90" or what ever they call the extra firm o-rings for "straight thread o-ring fittings" ( where the fittings thread into the pumps. Did I mention that my machine is a "rag"? if your steel lines have been replaced with hoses, this would also be a good opportunity to put those "(braided nylon webbing sleeves)" that are recommended for mining operations on all the hoses. ( I got bulk stock off Ebay) If this has been leaking long, be sure to check the condition of the rubber rear motor support (bushing?) if it collapses, the pumps rest on the cross member & wear holes in the cross member & the pumps. ( mine was developing cracks in the cross member as well. So after I cleaned it to the point that I could weld them up with out setting the machine on fire, I did. Service manual says to disconnect the battery when welding.) If you have the battery hold down clamp loose, be sure you don't "trap" it when you re-secure the engine. Personally, I drilled a few additional drain holes so that the liquid "stuff" could maybe drain out of the bottom of the machine. I fabricated a "cab jack" for my machine, and used a hoist arrangement for the pumps. I guess I am a wimp, I cannot imagine pulling them out through the under seat hole. Good Luck! [/QUOTE]
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Other Brand Skidsteer Forums
New Holland Skidsteer Forum
LX885 blowing hydraulic oil out of engine to transmission gearbox
Top