Lx865 weak steering

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SLanier454

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Joined
Oct 27, 2022
Messages
7
Hey guys recently picked up a LX865. Hydraulic oil is very very milky, gearcase that the hydraulic pumps bolt to is over full and also milky. Boom and bucket work great and are strong but fwd/reverse are very weak. Would the seals in the pumps leaking into the gearcase also cause weak drive symptom? Is there a good way to flush hydraulics other than draining tank and replacing filter multiple times? 7 gallons of 10w30 and a filter aren't exactly cheap! I really appreciate any input!
 

mrbb

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Jul 19, 2016
Messages
525
well sounds like you got water in your fluids,
till you remove that, odds are your not going to know how things will work as is, as the water will effect pressures and how the systems work!
on lx865's there are two versions also,so, look up serial number and see what version you have (shared or separate gear boxes)
 
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SLanier454

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Joined
Oct 27, 2022
Messages
7
well sounds like you got water in your fluids,
till you remove that, odds are your not going to know how things will work as is, as the water will effect pressures and how the systems work!
on lx865's there are two versions also,so, look up serial number and see what version you have (shared or separate gear boxes)
10-4. I drained reservoir last night and changed the filter and changed the 80w90 in the gearcase. Going to refill the reservoir tonight and run it and more than likely change it all again in an attempt to flush all the milky oil out of the system.
 

Ivan

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Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
215
10-4. I drained reservoir last night and changed the filter and changed the 80w90 in the gearcase. Going to refill the reservoir tonight and run it and more than likely change it all again in an attempt to flush all the milky oil out of the system.
Check on the outside of the chain case and see if there is any where the water could have gotten in at. Usually there is an inspection plate bolted to the op. Check that gasket to see ifit hasbeen leaking
 

brdgbldr

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Jun 1, 2012
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Check on the outside of the chain case and see if there is any where the water could have gotten in at. Usually there is an inspection plate bolted to the op. Check that gasket to see ifit hasbeen leaking
Condensation is how most water enters the chain case and any other "tank". There is no good way to stop it. You can slow it down by storing the machine in a climate controlled building, but not many of us have that luxury.

Since most of us do not have the luxury of storing our machines inside. It is best to keep an eye on water in the oil and fuel tanks. Just remember that water is denser then oil and fuel so the water will settle to the bottom of the tank. This means that you can't just pop a lid and look. You have to pump some out from the bottom To inspect it.
 
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SLanier454

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Joined
Oct 27, 2022
Messages
7
So when I say gear case I'm referring to the gearcase between the hydraulic pumps and the engine. That's the one that's overfilled and milky along with the hydraulic oil (10w30) being totally milked. Is there a good way of flushing the hydraulic system other than changing the oil multiple times?
 

Ivan

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Jan 14, 2011
Messages
215
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Condensation is how most water enters the chain case and any other "tank". There is no good way to stop it. You can slow it down by storing the machine in a climate controlled building, but not many of us have that luxury.

Since most of us do not have the luxury of storing our machines inside. It is best to keep an eye on water in the oil and fuel tanks. Just remember that water is denser then oil and fuel so the water will settle to the bottom of the tank. This means that you can't just pop a lid and look. You have to pump some out from the bottom To inspect it.
If those inspection covers on the case are not sealed you will get water also. Mine had been removed and not resealed when they we re put back on
 

Shanmar

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Joined
Aug 27, 2022
Messages
75
The oil in the gearcase on the back of the engine that drives the pumps is supposed to be separate from the hydraulic oil in the pumps. The gearcase runs 80/90. There may be a chance that hydraulic oil leaking into that gearcase would make the drives weak, maybe. I'm thinking that if it's leaking enough that the charge pump can't supply enough to maintain full charge pressure...that could make the pumps weak. But, either way, it still needs fixed and it could be any or all of the 3 pumps that are leaking.

I'd get the oil changed first. I recently had the same problem on my L170. The LX865 is arranged similarly, so this should help. Here's what I did. It pretty much requires a competent helper and your going to make a mess. This is NOT what the factory would recommend but I feel I got 95% of the old oil out and it looks good now.
- Get machine up off ground so wheels can turn freely. For me, we take the bucket on the machine, point it straight down and push down, rocking the machine way back. Then someone slides 8" wood blocks roughly 3' long inside the tires down along the frame on both sides--all the way back. When you lift the bucket, the machine should roll up on the blocks.
- Unhook one of the hoses at the bucket cylinders and hold it into an empty 5 gallon bucket. Gently activate that bucket function to pump the oil into the bucket. As soon as it starts spitting air, shut it off. The reservoir and that circuit is now mostly empty. Reconnect hose.
- On the left side (when in the seat) of the valve block under the cover between your feet there is a large connection for a hose that runs all the way back through the machine. Disconnect it.
- In back right above the hydraulic filter, disconnect pipe from oil cooler to oil filter. Blow air back through oil cooler. This should clean most from oil cooler and that line.
- Disconnect power to the fuel shutoff solenoid so you can crank the engine without starting.
- Fill oil reservoir with new oil.
- Change hydraulic filter.
- Crank engine until clean oil comes out of the fitting at the valve.
- Reconnect that hose.
- Now for the hydros. I disconnected one of the big hoses between the pump and motor on one side. Push the lever one way on that side and crank engine until clean oil appears. Then pull the lever the other way and crank again. Reconnect hose and repeat on other side. This should flush most of the contaminated oil out of the hydro pumps and motors which I felt was critical.
- Refill oil reservoir.
- For the boom and bucket lines and cylinders you can do a variety of things. Disconnect hoses at cylinders and let them slowly drain (we mostly just did this). Could also disconnect hoses at cylinders and at the valve between feet and blow air through.
- Refill oil reservoir and recheck after running a bit.

That will clear out most of the system.

One other thought, does it look milky like water or really small bubbles like air contamination. It would be possible for a small leak on the suction side to let air in. Water is more likely in my opinion though.

Hope this helps.
 
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SLanier454

Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2022
Messages
7
The oil in the gearcase on the back of the engine that drives the pumps is supposed to be separate from the hydraulic oil in the pumps. The gearcase runs 80/90. There may be a chance that hydraulic oil leaking into that gearcase would make the drives weak, maybe. I'm thinking that if it's leaking enough that the charge pump can't supply enough to maintain full charge pressure...that could make the pumps weak. But, either way, it still needs fixed and it could be any or all of the 3 pumps that are leaking.

I'd get the oil changed first. I recently had the same problem on my L170. The LX865 is arranged similarly, so this should help. Here's what I did. It pretty much requires a competent helper and your going to make a mess. This is NOT what the factory would recommend but I feel I got 95% of the old oil out and it looks good now.
- Get machine up off ground so wheels can turn freely. For me, we take the bucket on the machine, point it straight down and push down, rocking the machine way back. Then someone slides 8" wood blocks roughly 3' long inside the tires down along the frame on both sides--all the way back. When you lift the bucket, the machine should roll up on the blocks.
- Unhook one of the hoses at the bucket cylinders and hold it into an empty 5 gallon bucket. Gently activate that bucket function to pump the oil into the bucket. As soon as it starts spitting air, shut it off. The reservoir and that circuit is now mostly empty. Reconnect hose.
- On the left side (when in the seat) of the valve block under the cover between your feet there is a large connection for a hose that runs all the way back through the machine. Disconnect it.
- In back right above the hydraulic filter, disconnect pipe from oil cooler to oil filter. Blow air back through oil cooler. This should clean most from oil cooler and that line.
- Disconnect power to the fuel shutoff solenoid so you can crank the engine without starting.
- Fill oil reservoir with new oil.
- Change hydraulic filter.
- Crank engine until clean oil comes out of the fitting at the valve.
- Reconnect that hose.
- Now for the hydros. I disconnected one of the big hoses between the pump and motor on one side. Push the lever one way on that side and crank engine until clean oil appears. Then pull the lever the other way and crank again. Reconnect hose and repeat on other side. This should flush most of the contaminated oil out of the hydro pumps and motors which I felt was critical.
- Refill oil reservoir.
- For the boom and bucket lines and cylinders you can do a variety of things. Disconnect hoses at cylinders and let them slowly drain (we mostly just did this). Could also disconnect hoses at cylinders and at the valve between feet and blow air through.
- Refill oil reservoir and recheck after running a bit.

That will clear out most of the system.

One other thought, does it look milky like water or really small bubbles like air contamination. It would be possible for a small leak on the suction side to let air in. Water is more likely in my opinion though.

Hope this helps.
You are the man! That's exactly what I'll do. Also going to pull the pumps and replace those seals. I've got to get clean fluid and fix those seals before I can get any kind of idea of what wrong. I appreciate it!
 
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