Perhaps I don't understand the question, or I am sharing an oversimplification.
If so please forgive me ... I pulled the cylinders on mine several years a go & some of the details are forgotten.
Remove the plastic plug inside the operators compartment to access the nut on the retaining bolt, Remove the nut, washer & bolt, . Using a soft drift to bump the inside end of the pin would be better, but I probably just used whatever steel bar came to hand. I would remove bottom pin first, so that the cylinder did not fall completely when the tapered pin came free.
There are apparently 2 styles of cylinder head, a threaded and a snap-ring head.
Mine are the threaded head style.
If you are re-sealing the cylinders as a DIY project, consider loosening the gland nut before you remove the cylinder from the machine, so the mounts can hold the cylinder securely, you wont be crushing it in a vice. In my project, one came apart reasonably, the other involved a large pipe wrench, long cheater pipe and a heating torch. It was pretty intimidating, but I had the "cylinder shop guys" on hand for "experienced" advice. ( I did this "at work" where I was a "diesel engine guy" ).
Good luck ... CE
