LX865 Instrument Panel will not shut off / foot control pedals locked

[scottlyons]

Hoping someone can steer me with advice to figure this electrical problem out. I'm in Belize and there are no mechanics here so I am on my own. I was operating my New Holland LX865 skid steer the other day and all of a sudden my foot control boom/bucket pedals just froze up. The motor is fine, connections in the seat and seat belt seem fine (but don't exactly know what to check for). The instrument lights are flashing and will not go off even with the key out. This obviously drains the battery after a few days. The instrument panel is unfortunately silver lined. I'm not sure if this matters but the lights that continue to flash one to the other are the Hydrostatic Transmission Charge Pressure light and the Engine Oil Pressure light along with the Air Filter Condition light and the Stop Engine Warning light. The motor fluids and everything else is fine. Motor is in top shape. What steps should I take to track down the problem. I am hoping it's not just "replace the panel" situation and may be something else that is triggering this problem.

 

[Mike10]

If you have not done it yet, disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then reconnect to see if the panel will reset. It sounds like the instrument panel

 

[scottlyons]

If you have not done it yet, disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then reconnect to see if the panel will reset. It sounds like the instrument panel

Thank You, Big Time, for your reply! I did that and to no avail. I even purchased a new battery thinking it was old and possibly a voltage problem and still nothing. It starts right up in Service mode but only "clicks" like an almost dead battery in Run mode. EIC board continues to flash intermittently like a Christmas light parade between all those lights mentioned above in BOTH mode positions and continues even with the key off and out of the ignition (requiring a battery disconnect every time I throw in the towel for the day). One thing that stands out is that with an Ohm meter I'm getting the 12.5V reading directly off the new battery, but on the EIC it is only showing 11.4V. This, I guess, would indicate the lack of voltage to the starter in the Run mode position to start the motor. When I switch to Service mode, it's 12.5V, where it should be. All the fuses, seat switch, seat belt harness wiring and connections check out good and no fluid leaks. When started in the Service mode and then switched to Run mode (it remains running), my hydraulic boom/bucket foot pedals are still locked up and of course, EIC panel reads 11.4V. I am perplexed. I ordered a new ignition switch thinking that might be a problem since there is still juice going to the EIC board with the key out but am not holding my breath that it could be something that simple. Also ordered the expensive repair/service manual since there are no mechanics qualified to work on it here in Belize unlike Idaho and I am patiently waiting for those parts to arrive (2 months now to C.A.). I'm not even sure if that's going to help since I'm no real mechanic myself...especially with what is clearly an electrical issue. I have common sense, can turn a wrench or screwdriver but this has got me baffled. It's killing me not having this machine up and running since it is an essential part of my livelihood. Any advice and direction are Enormously Appreciated!!

 

[scottlyons]

Thank You, Big Time, for your reply! I did that and to no avail. I even purchased a new battery thinking it was old and possibly a voltage problem and still nothing. It starts right up in Service mode but only "clicks" like an almost dead battery in Run mode. EIC board continues to flash intermittently like a Christmas light parade between all those lights mentioned above in BOTH mode positions and continues even with the key off and out of the ignition (requiring a battery disconnect every time I throw in the towel for the day). One thing that stands out is that with an Ohm meter I'm getting the 12.5V reading directly off the new battery, but on the EIC it is only showing 11.4V. This, I guess, would indicate the lack of voltage to the starter in the Run mode position to start the motor. When I switch to Service mode, it's 12.5V, where it should be. All the fuses, seat switch, seat belt harness wiring and connections check out good and no fluid leaks. When started in the Service mode and then switched to Run mode (it remains running), my hydraulic boom/bucket foot pedals are still locked up and of course, EIC panel reads 11.4V. I am perplexed. I ordered a new ignition switch thinking that might be a problem since there is still juice going to the EIC board with the key out but am not holding my breath that it could be something that simple. Also ordered the expensive repair/service manual since there are no mechanics qualified to work on it here in Belize unlike Idaho and I am patiently waiting for those parts to arrive (2 months now to C.A.). I'm not even sure if that's going to help since I'm no real mechanic myself...especially with what is clearly an electrical issue. I have common sense, can turn a wrench or screwdriver but this has got me baffled. It's killing me not having this machine up and running since it is an essential part of my livelihood. Any advice and direction are Enormously Appreciated!!

Also, as it may be of importance, when I turn the key in the Run mode attempting to start it, it only clicks once....not a series of clicks. If that indicates a bad relay, what relay is it? Would someone know that part number by chance? If it is a bad relay, why would it still start in Service mode and would that make the dash lights all light up like disco night at the Roxy...and keep my foot controls locked up?

 

[Mike10]

Also, as it may be of importance, when I turn the key in the Run mode attempting to start it, it only clicks once....not a series of clicks. If that indicates a bad relay, what relay is it? Would someone know that part number by chance? If it is a bad relay, why would it still start in Service mode and would that make the dash lights all light up like disco night at the Roxy...and keep my foot controls locked up?

The difference in voltage readings is normal. The one click you hear when the key is turned on is the cold start relay, which also is normal. If you get rapid clicking then you have low voltage or a bad connection. If you can find another loader I would try their instrument panel in your loader or vice versa. Sounds more like the instrument panel.

 

[scottlyons]

The difference in voltage readings is normal. The one click you hear when the key is turned on is the cold start relay, which also is normal. If you get rapid clicking then you have low voltage or a bad connection. If you can find another loader I would try their instrument panel in your loader or vice versa. Sounds more like the instrument panel.

1 problem fixed....but still down. It does now start in Run mode. There is a rubber hose link that attaches the oil dipstick tube together. That rubber had deteriorated and came apart. Oil had been coming out of that resulting in the Low Oil Pressure light coming on. Repaired, filled and that light is out. Still have the Hydrostatic Tranny Charge Pressure light on and Air Filter light on. Foot controls still locked out. There is plenty of hydraulic oil and the air filters have been thoroughly cleaned. Panel lights go out ONLY after I disconnect the battery even in the off position. When battery is reattached, panel lights stay out until I sit. I fasten seat belt, self diagnostics run, etc (like normal) turn on the key. start, Run or Service mode, shut off and panel stays lit up flashing b/n Hydro Chrg Lt, Air Filter light and Stop Eng Light. I finally received the service manual but can not find a solution. I do not believe the EIC board is out since it runs through the diagnostics and now allows it to start in the Run mode whereas it did not before. Scratching my head...... Mike10...thoughts?

 

[Mike10]

1 problem fixed....but still down. It does now start in Run mode. There is a rubber hose link that attaches the oil dipstick tube together. That rubber had deteriorated and came apart. Oil had been coming out of that resulting in the Low Oil Pressure light coming on. Repaired, filled and that light is out. Still have the Hydrostatic Tranny Charge Pressure light on and Air Filter light on. Foot controls still locked out. There is plenty of hydraulic oil and the air filters have been thoroughly cleaned. Panel lights go out ONLY after I disconnect the battery even in the off position. When battery is reattached, panel lights stay out until I sit. I fasten seat belt, self diagnostics run, etc (like normal) turn on the key. start, Run or Service mode, shut off and panel stays lit up flashing b/n Hydro Chrg Lt, Air Filter light and Stop Eng Light. I finally received the service manual but can not find a solution. I do not believe the EIC board is out since it runs through the diagnostics and now allows it to start in the Run mode whereas it did not before. Scratching my head...... Mike10...thoughts?

Can you find another loader where you can switch the instrument panels? The panels will do strange things when they go bad. If the lines which outline the instrument panel are grey, the chances are the panel is bad

 

[scottlyons]

Can you find another loader where you can switch the instrument panels? The panels will do strange things when they go bad. If the lines which outline the instrument panel are grey, the chances are the panel is bad

There is not another one I could locate here in the country. The EIC is still kicking out the 8888.8 code indicating it is functioning properly (but certainly may not be...it is grey outlined unfortunately). I cannot really check out the Air and Hydraulic sensors since the EIC already is indicating that there is a problem. Today I will check out the pins and also the sensors for voltage and maybe take apart and inspect the seat belt contacts inside it (?). I figured I would start running through the 5 different power points for the EIC (p3-87) and see if I could track down as to WHY it keeps getting continual power after it is off and key out. Btw: I took out the Air Pressure sensor, cleaned it, took off tube, cleaned it and cleaned out the connection point to the air filter canister hoping light would then go out. Question on that;...is there a way to "reset" the EIC board? Does that affect the boom/bucket lock out also in addition to the Hydro Pressure sensor? is there a way to check out the sensors to see if they are still good? Please advise.

 

[Mike10]

There is not another one I could locate here in the country. The EIC is still kicking out the 8888.8 code indicating it is functioning properly (but certainly may not be...it is grey outlined unfortunately). I cannot really check out the Air and Hydraulic sensors since the EIC already is indicating that there is a problem. Today I will check out the pins and also the sensors for voltage and maybe take apart and inspect the seat belt contacts inside it (?). I figured I would start running through the 5 different power points for the EIC (p3-87) and see if I could track down as to WHY it keeps getting continual power after it is off and key out. Btw: I took out the Air Pressure sensor, cleaned it, took off tube, cleaned it and cleaned out the connection point to the air filter canister hoping light would then go out. Question on that;...is there a way to "reset" the EIC board? Does that affect the boom/bucket lock out also in addition to the Hydro Pressure sensor? is there a way to check out the sensors to see if they are still good? Please advise.

The EIC always has power at pin 14. There are two types of grey outlined instrument panels, those that have failed and those that are going to fail. Since you do not have access to another loader, then contact Ag-Express at Desmoin, IA. They will not rebuild the gray boards, but they can still test your board to see if that is where the problem is at.

 

[scottlyons]

The EIC always has power at pin 14. There are two types of grey outlined instrument panels, those that have failed and those that are going to fail. Since you do not have access to another loader, then contact Ag-Express at Desmoin, IA. They will not rebuild the gray boards, but they can still test your board to see if that is where the problem is at.

Finally working. $55 buck Hydraulic Pressure Switch.....jezzus I feel dumb.

 

[Tazza]

Finally working. $55 buck Hydraulic Pressure Switch.....jezzus I feel dumb.

Don't feel bad, feel happy that you found it! Not everyone would have had the patience to stick it out and work out the problem.
Good job.

 

[rodbuilder]

I had two LX885's that did the same thing! The seat belt latches had some dirt or corrosion in them, so all I did was squirt them with some WD-40 and the little switch in it stopped hanging up! From my experience this is one of the very rare maladies with these machines. If you want to replace the seat belt a new one is about $135 from the dealer.

 

[John T]

Finally working. $55 buck Hydraulic Pressure Switch.....jezzus I feel dumb.

Where is the Hydraulic pressure switch located? Curious... just in case