lx665 Boom Cylinder Removal Help...

Help Support SkidSteer Forum:

Tater2675

New member
Joined
May 5, 2010
Messages
3
One of my boom cylinder's is leaking pretty bad from the seal area. I raised the boom and locked it down onto the lock pins. Then began takeing it off the machine. Got it almost off untill I hit a little snag. the end of the cylinder that is attached to the cab I cannot remove. Why? I removed the bolt from inside the cab that goes thru the cylinder. Anyone had any experience with this lately?
 
I,ll look closer in the morning at my machine but the book shows that pin as a tapered pin which would be drawn in tight by the bolt so you would have to loosen the bolt or remove the bolt and drive the pin out with a large hammer. There are only two straight pins on the boom, one is lower bucket cyl pin and upper boom cyl pin. The tapered pins have a torque of 250 ft lbs, tighten them then nail them with the large hammer then tighten them again till torque is reached
 
I,ll look closer in the morning at my machine but the book shows that pin as a tapered pin which would be drawn in tight by the bolt so you would have to loosen the bolt or remove the bolt and drive the pin out with a large hammer. There are only two straight pins on the boom, one is lower bucket cyl pin and upper boom cyl pin. The tapered pins have a torque of 250 ft lbs, tighten them then nail them with the large hammer then tighten them again till torque is reached
Hmm.. Does it show if the pin is by chance threaded in some way? I called myself trying to knock it out ward from inside the machine. But the thing didn't wanna budge. So I pulled off beating on it till I got more info. Didn't wanna mess anything up. If you do drive it outward this baby is gonna be in there pretty dang good. Thats why I was thinking it could be threaded in or something???? Thanks
 
Hmm.. Does it show if the pin is by chance threaded in some way? I called myself trying to knock it out ward from inside the machine. But the thing didn't wanna budge. So I pulled off beating on it till I got more info. Didn't wanna mess anything up. If you do drive it outward this baby is gonna be in there pretty dang good. Thats why I was thinking it could be threaded in or something???? Thanks
that pin measure 4 7/16 long overall, 2 3/8 dia straight section diameter, and 1 5/32 straight section length. They do not give the dia of the tapered end. The book shows striking the part which holds the straight portion from the side with a soft face hammer to break the taper loose. I have removed the quick attach pins from the boom and they are the same but I did not waste that much time with a soft face hammer just whacked it with about a 2 lb hammer and they came loose. Loosen the bolt but leave it in the hole so everything doesn't fall down. On the cyl I would loosen the bolt and strike it from the front of the machine on the end.
 
that pin measure 4 7/16 long overall, 2 3/8 dia straight section diameter, and 1 5/32 straight section length. They do not give the dia of the tapered end. The book shows striking the part which holds the straight portion from the side with a soft face hammer to break the taper loose. I have removed the quick attach pins from the boom and they are the same but I did not waste that much time with a soft face hammer just whacked it with about a 2 lb hammer and they came loose. Loosen the bolt but leave it in the hole so everything doesn't fall down. On the cyl I would loosen the bolt and strike it from the front of the machine on the end.
I mean hit the cyl on the end, when you hit it you will be striking in the direction of the rear wheel. It has a shoulder on the outer end of the pin so the cyl will not come off till the pin is loose in the tapered hole in the machine. Look at messick's.com site and there will be a exploded view of it and a price on that pin that will astound you.
 
I mean hit the cyl on the end, when you hit it you will be striking in the direction of the rear wheel. It has a shoulder on the outer end of the pin so the cyl will not come off till the pin is loose in the tapered hole in the machine. Look at messick's.com site and there will be a exploded view of it and a price on that pin that will astound you.
I looked and the pin is $148 and change. It is #21 on that diagram
 
I looked and the pin is $148 and change. It is #21 on that diagram
If possible just repack it right on the loader. Thats how we do the log loaders. Not that lifting this cylinder would be too heavy but it just saves work. Take it apart right on the machine and re pack and assemble.
Ken
 
If possible just repack it right on the loader. Thats how we do the log loaders. Not that lifting this cylinder would be too heavy but it just saves work. Take it apart right on the machine and re pack and assemble.
Ken
I knocked the pin out today and took the cylinder off the machine. Yea..... I had to just whack it pretty darn hard to pop it out. Gonna put new seal kit this weekend. Then put it back on machine. Wish I had came here first before I started this little project would have just left it on machine. Oh well I will know now when its time to do the other side one day.... Thanks guys
 
I knocked the pin out today and took the cylinder off the machine. Yea..... I had to just whack it pretty darn hard to pop it out. Gonna put new seal kit this weekend. Then put it back on machine. Wish I had came here first before I started this little project would have just left it on machine. Oh well I will know now when its time to do the other side one day.... Thanks guys
You are welcome, nice to know when someone solves a problem how they did it.
 
Top