ls185b left side wont drive

[mjtrucking]

Left side wheels won't drive or lock to turn when I let go of the control lever when I move the left stick I can feel the wheels try to turn then they stop. the chains are in good shape any ideas to try? thanks matt

 

[Tazza]

Could it be the brake locking the wheels up?

 

[mjtrucking]

Could it be the brake locking the wheels up?

I don't think so it will sometimes free wheel on that side

 

[Mike10]

If the chains are intact and on the drive sprocket, if the left side will not move either forward or backwards, then you are probably looking at internal problems. Check to be sure the steering linkage is still attached to the hydro pump and moves the pump shaft when the lever is moved. If all that is alright then you might want to do a case drain test. Each of the hydro pumps and hydro motors have a case drain line attached to drain the internal leakage. Start with the motor. The case drain line is a rubber hose attached with a hose clamp at the motor. Remove the hose from the motor and plug the hose and clamp. Install a hose to the motor fitting. The hose needs to be long enough to reach a bucket for the oil to drain into. Before starting the engine you should block the loader off the ground to prevent it from moving. Start the engine and activate the hydraulics and release the park brake. Stroke the hydro lever and see how much oil is flowing through the drain hose into the bucket. If you have a strong stream of oil then you have a bad internal leak. If you do not get any oil to drain then the hydro pump is not working.

 

[Mike10]

If the chains are intact and on the drive sprocket, if the left side will not move either forward or backwards, then you are probably looking at internal problems. Check to be sure the steering linkage is still attached to the hydro pump and moves the pump shaft when the lever is moved. If all that is alright then you might want to do a case drain test. Each of the hydro pumps and hydro motors have a case drain line attached to drain the internal leakage. Start with the motor. The case drain line is a rubber hose attached with a hose clamp at the motor. Remove the hose from the motor and plug the hose and clamp. Install a hose to the motor fitting. The hose needs to be long enough to reach a bucket for the oil to drain into. Before starting the engine you should block the loader off the ground to prevent it from moving. Start the engine and activate the hydraulics and release the park brake. Stroke the hydro lever and see how much oil is flowing through the drain hose into the bucket. If you have a strong stream of oil then you have a bad internal leak. If you do not get any oil to drain then the hydro pump is not working.

Additionally, if the brakes are not releasing then the engine will pull down when the lever is stroked if all is ok with the hydro system.

 

[mjtrucking]

If the chains are intact and on the drive sprocket, if the left side will not move either forward or backwards, then you are probably looking at internal problems. Check to be sure the steering linkage is still attached to the hydro pump and moves the pump shaft when the lever is moved. If all that is alright then you might want to do a case drain test. Each of the hydro pumps and hydro motors have a case drain line attached to drain the internal leakage. Start with the motor. The case drain line is a rubber hose attached with a hose clamp at the motor. Remove the hose from the motor and plug the hose and clamp. Install a hose to the motor fitting. The hose needs to be long enough to reach a bucket for the oil to drain into. Before starting the engine you should block the loader off the ground to prevent it from moving. Start the engine and activate the hydraulics and release the park brake. Stroke the hydro lever and see how much oil is flowing through the drain hose into the bucket. If you have a strong stream of oil then you have a bad internal leak. If you do not get any oil to drain then the hydro pump is not working.

I hooked up the case dtain hose and as soon as I started the machine it started spraying oil is that normal should it slow down when I cycle the stick I shut it down right away when it started spraying then reread your post thanks matt

 

[Mike10]

I hooked up the case dtain hose and as soon as I started the machine it started spraying oil is that normal should it slow down when I cycle the stick I shut it down right away when it started spraying then reread your post thanks matt

I could not find the specs for a 185 but a 175 which uses a similar motor has a normal case drain of @ 2 GPM per motor. If you are getting a lot more than that, you have internal damage. By the way, with the loader blocked up would the wheels turn then when the hydro was stroked.

 

[mjtrucking]

I could not find the specs for a 185 but a 175 which uses a similar motor has a normal case drain of @ 2 GPM per motor. If you are getting a lot more than that, you have internal damage. By the way, with the loader blocked up would the wheels turn then when the hydro was stroked.

I blocked up the left side the wheels spin fine. The drain hose pretty much quit pushing oil with the stick in neutral probably pushed out 4 gallons in two or three minutes when cycling the stick at low idle didn't seem to matter much if I idled it up the oil was really milky mush have gotten water in it but not sure where it came from

 

[Mike10]

I blocked up the left side the wheels spin fine. The drain hose pretty much quit pushing oil with the stick in neutral probably pushed out 4 gallons in two or three minutes when cycling the stick at low idle didn't seem to matter much if I idled it up the oil was really milky mush have gotten water in it but not sure where it came from

Did the engine pull down when the wheels were on the ground but would not move? I think you need to determine if the hydro pump and relief valves are working correctly. It is not too likely that both the forward and reverse relief valve would be bad. I think the easiest way for you to check the pump is to either remove the brake hyd line from the motor and plug the line and brake fitting or remove the hydro hoses from either the motor or pump and cap them. Removing the brake line will lock the brakes on that side. Capping the large hydro hoses will dead head the oil. Stoke the hydro lever and see if the engine pulls down. If the engine pulls down more than it did with the hydro motor in the circuit then the problem is in the motor. If the engine does not pull down then the problem is in the pump. If you had a 10000 psi gauge you could check the relief valves but if the engine pulls down the relief valves are allowing the system to build pressure without opening.

 

[mjtrucking]

Did the engine pull down when the wheels were on the ground but would not move? I think you need to determine if the hydro pump and relief valves are working correctly. It is not too likely that both the forward and reverse relief valve would be bad. I think the easiest way for you to check the pump is to either remove the brake hyd line from the motor and plug the line and brake fitting or remove the hydro hoses from either the motor or pump and cap them. Removing the brake line will lock the brakes on that side. Capping the large hydro hoses will dead head the oil. Stoke the hydro lever and see if the engine pulls down. If the engine pulls down more than it did with the hydro motor in the circuit then the problem is in the motor. If the engine does not pull down then the problem is in the pump. If you had a 10000 psi gauge you could check the relief valves but if the engine pulls down the relief valves are allowing the system to build pressure without opening.

The motor doesn't pull don't when lever is stroked it just seems like the left side free wheels but some times it will catch. The wheels turned fine when it was blocked up but they were slow at first then after the turned a couple of times the were closer to normal speed. Thanks for your replies I appreciate it