LS180 problems, Concerns???

[Jimmy192]

Purchased this machine a couple weeks ago. Has 2000 hrs on it. Have had a couple issues come up and wanted some opinions. 1. Drive chains had some play in them I adjusted but couldn't get them to 1/4" play per service manual specs. about 1.5" play after adjustment. Should I be concerned? 2. When first started I raise boom and stop, boom lowers slowly on its own with no controls being touched. Doesn't do it every time, once it is warmed up I have no problems with it. I see no leaks anywhere? 3. Parking brake doesn't work. seems expensive to fix? This machine is a work horse otherwise powerful and controls are easy to use. Any input appreciated. Thanks

 

[mllud]

Jimmy 192
I have a lX865. I believe its comparable in size, just older. Do the chains on yours tighten by sliding the axels outward ,with the slotted holes in the hubs? Are you at the limit with the studs at the end of the slot in the hub?
That 1/4 inch movement is rocking the tire back and forth is with no force. With mine adjusted at 1/4 inch I can still force the wheel farther in both directions. Thats not what their wanting. the chain will still have some sag that gives that extra movement with pushing the tire.They want 1/4 inch with the wheel off the ground that rocks back and forth easy.
If your at the end of adjustment and have an inch and a half of easy movement you might need chains. The loose chains will cause extra wear on the sprockets and could derail snd cause worst damage.That slop also causes a jerk when chainging directions that puts extra stress on the drive train.
With the boom dropping and no visable leaks its probably a load check. Its a valve that holds the position where you stop. Its located in the main control valve and is usually accesable without pulling the whole control valve.
My parking brake is adjustable. I believe yours is also.They are a pain and expensive to replace because you have to pull the hyd. motors and gear reduction boxes.
Here is a previous post about the parking brake adjustment. Its for a LX865 but I belive it is like yours. Try adjusting it. [ Parking Brake needs help ] Mike

 

[Jimmy192]

Jimmy 192
I have a lX865. I believe its comparable in size, just older. Do the chains on yours tighten by sliding the axels outward ,with the slotted holes in the hubs? Are you at the limit with the studs at the end of the slot in the hub?
That 1/4 inch movement is rocking the tire back and forth is with no force. With mine adjusted at 1/4 inch I can still force the wheel farther in both directions. Thats not what their wanting. the chain will still have some sag that gives that extra movement with pushing the tire.They want 1/4 inch with the wheel off the ground that rocks back and forth easy.
If your at the end of adjustment and have an inch and a half of easy movement you might need chains. The loose chains will cause extra wear on the sprockets and could derail snd cause worst damage.That slop also causes a jerk when chainging directions that puts extra stress on the drive train.
With the boom dropping and no visable leaks its probably a load check. Its a valve that holds the position where you stop. Its located in the main control valve and is usually accesable without pulling the whole control valve.
My parking brake is adjustable. I believe yours is also.They are a pain and expensive to replace because you have to pull the hyd. motors and gear reduction boxes.
Here is a previous post about the parking brake adjustment. Its for a LX865 but I belive it is like yours. Try adjusting it. [ Parking Brake needs help ] Mike

Mike, Yes that is how the chains adjust. and it is at the end of its adjustment. The play I am talking about is the free play not the slack. So, new chains are probabely needed. I will try adjusting the parking brake. Thank you for all your help. I called the place I bought the machine from and asked them there opinion on problems and they said they would refund my money if I am not happy with machine. That was cool of them to stand behind what they sell. Jimmy

 

[mllud]

Mike, Yes that is how the chains adjust. and it is at the end of its adjustment. The play I am talking about is the free play not the slack. So, new chains are probabely needed. I will try adjusting the parking brake. Thank you for all your help. I called the place I bought the machine from and asked them there opinion on problems and they said they would refund my money if I am not happy with machine. That was cool of them to stand behind what they sell. Jimmy

Jimmy
Its great that they stand behind what they sell.
Your problems dont sound too serious. No matter what you buy in a 2000 hour machine you should expect something to need some attention.Fairly low hours.Maybe they will give you a good deal on the chains. If the drive pumps are strong and lift and tilt feel good, and Engine sounds good you should be able to work through some smaller problems.You should be able to tell if it was maintained, or abused.
One thing I learned is they arent cheap to repair and every hour running cost more than just fuel. Take care of it and hopefully it will take care of you. They are awsome machines.
Welcome to the forum. If you read down thru some of the New Holland post there is some good information.Also reading the other brands posts is good. There is a lot about skid steers that is similar. Mostly the hydraulics.
New Holland sells their repair manuals in about 6 books. The first one you would want is the Operators Manual. I think it was about $40. I have the Operators Manual,Engine repair manual, The Hydraulic Repair Manual And the Hydrostatic System and Steering System system Manual.Their books are well written and they sell you the same books the mechanics at the dealer use. They pay for themself quickly.The Phone number to order the Manuals is 1800-635-4913. They will want the serial number and model number.
Mike

 

[Earthwerks Unlimited]

Jimmy
Its great that they stand behind what they sell.
Your problems dont sound too serious. No matter what you buy in a 2000 hour machine you should expect something to need some attention.Fairly low hours.Maybe they will give you a good deal on the chains. If the drive pumps are strong and lift and tilt feel good, and Engine sounds good you should be able to work through some smaller problems.You should be able to tell if it was maintained, or abused.
One thing I learned is they arent cheap to repair and every hour running cost more than just fuel. Take care of it and hopefully it will take care of you. They are awsome machines.
Welcome to the forum. If you read down thru some of the New Holland post there is some good information.Also reading the other brands posts is good. There is a lot about skid steers that is similar. Mostly the hydraulics.
New Holland sells their repair manuals in about 6 books. The first one you would want is the Operators Manual. I think it was about $40. I have the Operators Manual,Engine repair manual, The Hydraulic Repair Manual And the Hydrostatic System and Steering System system Manual.Their books are well written and they sell you the same books the mechanics at the dealer use. They pay for themself quickly.The Phone number to order the Manuals is 1800-635-4913. They will want the serial number and model number.
Mike

I had an '03 LS180. I liked the machine but it was extremely loud drivetrain and hydraulicpump-wise. It was so loud in fact the factory bought it back. The dealer and I separately used decibel meters and it was found to be just under what a jet engine produces. When I put it in 2-speed it sounded like it was going to blow up. My '05 is also loud but it's the engine. Hydraulically there is little noise. The '03 and machi9nes of its era are prone to having instrument panel cicuit boards that crack. New cost about $400. If you have rust forming around where the ignition key goes like I did you might want to drill a hole just under the ignition swicth in the steel to make a drain hole. Worked great for me. If you do winter work or work in mud or sand consider tracks by TracksPlus.com (someone here on the board sells them too). They will turn your machine into a nearly unstoppable tank!

 

[Jimmy192]

I had an '03 LS180. I liked the machine but it was extremely loud drivetrain and hydraulicpump-wise. It was so loud in fact the factory bought it back. The dealer and I separately used decibel meters and it was found to be just under what a jet engine produces. When I put it in 2-speed it sounded like it was going to blow up. My '05 is also loud but it's the engine. Hydraulically there is little noise. The '03 and machi9nes of its era are prone to having instrument panel cicuit boards that crack. New cost about $400. If you have rust forming around where the ignition key goes like I did you might want to drill a hole just under the ignition swicth in the steel to make a drain hole. Worked great for me. If you do winter work or work in mud or sand consider tracks by TracksPlus.com (someone here on the board sells them too). They will turn your machine into a nearly unstoppable tank!

Yeah, sometimes I get a little quick to draw conclusions. It is easy to control and runs out strong. The Hydraulics are loud on mine to. I did find a leak. I lifted the seat today found a bolt loose at the end of one of the pumps. It obviously had chains on it from the scraping around the fender area and it looks like its been rode a little hard. This is why I am so concerned. It appears the parking brake is broke inside the pumps. Thanks for the help guys.