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Looking at buying a 742B. Tips on what to look for?
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<blockquote data-quote="Dave1234" data-source="post: 128996" data-attributes="member: 23099"><p>I recently bought a 742B at a distance so unseen, but from a farm dealer. Described as "in excellent condition" which for a 30+ year old machine it is. That said, don't expect no oil leaks. That seems like an impossible request in my experience. Probably drive an aircraft mechanic nuts trying to eliminate them to aircraft standards. Essentially all my hyd hoses are OEM, dated 1994, hard as rocks. Expect to replace many as you work on things. As to rebuild kits with sleeves, be sure they aren't for the diesel version, which do take sleeves. They could be mis-labled, although boring and dry sleeving a gasoline engine is definitely doable. And for compression tests, from other posts here, it looks like these engines were installed with the dished pistons otherwise used on the low compression turbo engine in automobiles, meaning you can't do a wet compression test, unfortunately. That might be a good enough excuse to get an ok to use a borescope. FYI, my engine has 2200hrs, seems to be in pretty good shape, and appears it should have a proper compression of 150 psi. It appears that Bobcat and Mitsubishi worked hard to derate the HP of this engine--low compression pistons, 1 blocked carb venturi, cam--I don't know. Mine appears to be pulling a lot of oil past the valve guides on cylinders 1 and 2, while 3&4 have lower compression but clean plugs. I suspect/hope the intake stem seals are installed crooked or failing. There is a special tool for installing then that no one is likely to have. On my machine, lifting the cab is doable but heavy. I don't know if there is an air lift cylinder and a spring, of just a spring with an air cylinder to slow it down in lowering it. As I do repairs on my engine, I try to find which automotive parts fit, and post details here. I am trying a product called Flairtite seals, which are coated stainless steel caps to go inside the JIC hyd fittings to eliminate leaks. Not cheap--$3-6 each, but cheaper than a new hose. If you are picky about leaks/seeps where they shouldn't be and don't want to be running to the hyd store every time you open an old/leaky fitting, they appear good to have on hand. And Float on mine-- I still need to investigate further, but at this point I will say that just pushing the pedal tip all the way down doesn't allow it to latch in detent for float. I have to slam it down fast to get it to catch in the detent position. I assume there is either wear on pivot points, or an adjustment, but just be aware that it may be hard to get it into detent/float. I don't know if just holding it down will be adequate to test it yet. I'd be interested to hear what you find, or anyone elses's feedback to postings here.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Dave1234, post: 128996, member: 23099"] I recently bought a 742B at a distance so unseen, but from a farm dealer. Described as "in excellent condition" which for a 30+ year old machine it is. That said, don't expect no oil leaks. That seems like an impossible request in my experience. Probably drive an aircraft mechanic nuts trying to eliminate them to aircraft standards. Essentially all my hyd hoses are OEM, dated 1994, hard as rocks. Expect to replace many as you work on things. As to rebuild kits with sleeves, be sure they aren't for the diesel version, which do take sleeves. They could be mis-labled, although boring and dry sleeving a gasoline engine is definitely doable. And for compression tests, from other posts here, it looks like these engines were installed with the dished pistons otherwise used on the low compression turbo engine in automobiles, meaning you can't do a wet compression test, unfortunately. That might be a good enough excuse to get an ok to use a borescope. FYI, my engine has 2200hrs, seems to be in pretty good shape, and appears it should have a proper compression of 150 psi. It appears that Bobcat and Mitsubishi worked hard to derate the HP of this engine--low compression pistons, 1 blocked carb venturi, cam--I don't know. Mine appears to be pulling a lot of oil past the valve guides on cylinders 1 and 2, while 3&4 have lower compression but clean plugs. I suspect/hope the intake stem seals are installed crooked or failing. There is a special tool for installing then that no one is likely to have. On my machine, lifting the cab is doable but heavy. I don't know if there is an air lift cylinder and a spring, of just a spring with an air cylinder to slow it down in lowering it. As I do repairs on my engine, I try to find which automotive parts fit, and post details here. I am trying a product called Flairtite seals, which are coated stainless steel caps to go inside the JIC hyd fittings to eliminate leaks. Not cheap--$3-6 each, but cheaper than a new hose. If you are picky about leaks/seeps where they shouldn't be and don't want to be running to the hyd store every time you open an old/leaky fitting, they appear good to have on hand. And Float on mine-- I still need to investigate further, but at this point I will say that just pushing the pedal tip all the way down doesn't allow it to latch in detent for float. I have to slam it down fast to get it to catch in the detent position. I assume there is either wear on pivot points, or an adjustment, but just be aware that it may be hard to get it into detent/float. I don't know if just holding it down will be adequate to test it yet. I'd be interested to hear what you find, or anyone elses's feedback to postings here. [/QUOTE]
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Looking at buying a 742B. Tips on what to look for?
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