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Looking at buying a 742B. Tips on what to look for?
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<blockquote data-quote="brdgbldr" data-source="post: 128979" data-attributes="member: 7474"><p>I had a couple of 742's. The one I kept the longest had the two piece axels. Much easier to replace the axels seals on a two piece. Look for a large bolt at the end of the axel, if it doesn't have one it is not a two piece axel. There were two versions of the 742B with the Mitsubishi 4G32 engines. The later ones have the two piece axels.</p><p></p><p>There are several post on the forum of people trying to find rebuild kits for the engine. They do not seem to make them anymore. However, people have managed to find all the parts needed to rebuild them. A good engine rebuilder / machinist can rebuild anything as long as it is not cracked.</p><p></p><p>The Mikuni-Solex carburetors are no longer available. There are other carbs that can be used.</p><p></p><p>The fuel pumps are hard to find, if at all, but an electric fuel pump can be installed as long as it is the correct pressure.</p><p></p><p>The governors are just about impossible to find so do make sure the one in the machine has been maintained. The linkages wear out but you can still get those new from Bobcat.</p><p></p><p>Make sure the auxiliaries work. The right lever should move from left to right to operate them. If you go all the way to the right a detent should engage that keeps the auxiliary on. Move to the left to disengage it. If the right lever does not move side to side it could mean that the auxiliaries were locked with a bolt on the lever so they could not be used. Or it could mean that they don't work.</p><p></p><p>Make sure the "float" works. Press the left pedal at the tow all the way down and a detent should hold it. This causes the lift arms to "float". With the pedal in detent, curl the bucket down and the arms should raise, not the front tires. Press the heal of the pedal to disengage the "float".</p><p></p><p>On any machine, you should be able to pull up to an immovable object, like a large tree or bolder, and press both levers fully forward and have the tires spin or at least the engine should not cut out.</p><p></p><p>Take a look at the oil cooler and radiator to make sure it has been cleaned of debris. If it is plugged up the machine may overheat and it will also hide any leaks.</p><p></p><p>Smell the dipstick. If it smells like gasoline the carburetor will need to be rebuilt or replaced.</p><p></p><p>You should try to get the seller to lift the cab for you. A lot of older machines are so clogged up with dirt and debris that the leaking oil can't get out. So don't think that just looking underneath for oil will tell you if there is a leak or not.</p><p></p><p>You can pull back and forth the on the tires to see if there is any axel play.</p><p></p><p>Make sure the quick-tach levers work. it is not fun trying to get them unfrozen.</p><p></p><p>That's about all I can think of unless you can get a compression test.</p><p></p><p>Good luck</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="brdgbldr, post: 128979, member: 7474"] I had a couple of 742’s. The one I kept the longest had the two piece axels. Much easier to replace the axels seals on a two piece. Look for a large bolt at the end of the axel, if it doesn‘t have one it is not a two piece axel. There were two versions of the 742B with the Mitsubishi 4G32 engines. The later ones have the two piece axels. There are several post on the forum of people trying to find rebuild kits for the engine. They do not seem to make them anymore. However, people have managed to find all the parts needed to rebuild them. A good engine rebuilder / machinist can rebuild anything as long as it is not cracked. The Mikuni-Solex carburetors are no longer available. There are other carbs that can be used. The fuel pumps are hard to find, if at all, but an electric fuel pump can be installed as long as it is the correct pressure. The governors are just about impossible to find so do make sure the one in the machine has been maintained. The linkages wear out but you can still get those new from Bobcat. Make sure the auxiliaries work. The right lever should move from left to right to operate them. If you go all the way to the right a detent should engage that keeps the auxiliary on. Move to the left to disengage it. If the right lever does not move side to side it could mean that the auxiliaries were locked with a bolt on the lever so they could not be used. Or it could mean that they don’t work. Make sure the “float“ works. Press the left pedal at the tow all the way down and a detent should hold it. This causes the lift arms to “float”. With the pedal in detent, curl the bucket down and the arms should raise, not the front tires. Press the heal of the pedal to disengage the “float”. On any machine, you should be able to pull up to an immovable object, like a large tree or bolder, and press both levers fully forward and have the tires spin or at least the engine should not cut out. Take a look at the oil cooler and radiator to make sure it has been cleaned of debris. If it is plugged up the machine may overheat and it will also hide any leaks. Smell the dipstick. If it smells like gasoline the carburetor will need to be rebuilt or replaced. You should try to get the seller to lift the cab for you. A lot of older machines are so clogged up with dirt and debris that the leaking oil can’t get out. So don’t think that just looking underneath for oil will tell you if there is a leak or not. You can pull back and forth the on the tires to see if there is any axel play. Make sure the quick-tach levers work. it is not fun trying to get them unfrozen. That‘s about all I can think of unless you can get a compression test. Good luck [/QUOTE]
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Looking at buying a 742B. Tips on what to look for?
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