Leaking right rear axel seal

das220

Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2009
Messages
12
Need some advise please. I just found that the right rear axel seal is leaking on my 632 skid loader. i was thinking that a might try and replace the seal my self. is this a bigger job then it looks. I have never had the chain case open before what needs to be removed to get acces to the rear sprocket in the cain case. last question is how quickly does this seal need to be fixed. any tips would be apprecated.
 
Keep an eye on the oil level, you don't ned to rush into fixing it. The job is rather large, especially the rear seals. You will need to pul the motor and pump to gain access, it can be done with the pump in, but access is NOT easy.
 
Keep an eye on the oil level, you don't ned to rush into fixing it. The job is rather large, especially the rear seals. You will need to pul the motor and pump to gain access, it can be done with the pump in, but access is NOT easy.
Tazza I can see why you should pull the pump that is under the seat, but do not under stand why you should pull the motor? I am a real green horn at this, this is my first bobcat. Is the chain sprocket on the rear shaft that far back in the chain case. the manual say's that the sprocket can be removed with out breaking the chain is this true.
 
Tazza I can see why you should pull the pump that is under the seat, but do not under stand why you should pull the motor? I am a real green horn at this, this is my first bobcat. Is the chain sprocket on the rear shaft that far back in the chain case. the manual say's that the sprocket can be removed with out breaking the chain is this true.
The reason the engine comes out too is how do you get to the bolts for the pump? then how do you get it to all line up again? it *can* be done, but honestly, removing the engine isn't a hard job, it will save you a LOT of swearing and lost skin.
The sprockets are rite at the back of the chain case. You can remove them without breaking the chain, i have never broken a chain to do seals. If you can remove the drive motors too, that makes turning the axle to un-do the bolt much easier. If you replace one, you better do all 4! if you don't, you'll kick your self when the others start to leak as well. You are in that far, whats an extra few bucks for seals. Its your decission of you replace the wear rings too.
 
The reason the engine comes out too is how do you get to the bolts for the pump? then how do you get it to all line up again? it *can* be done, but honestly, removing the engine isn't a hard job, it will save you a LOT of swearing and lost skin.
The sprockets are rite at the back of the chain case. You can remove them without breaking the chain, i have never broken a chain to do seals. If you can remove the drive motors too, that makes turning the axle to un-do the bolt much easier. If you replace one, you better do all 4! if you don't, you'll kick your self when the others start to leak as well. You are in that far, whats an extra few bucks for seals. Its your decission of you replace the wear rings too.
Oh, when pulling the pump, remove the hoses at the motors, not the pump. Makes it much easier. So when you pull the pump you will have the 4 hydro motor hoses still attached.
 
Oh, when pulling the pump, remove the hoses at the motors, not the pump. Makes it much easier. So when you pull the pump you will have the 4 hydro motor hoses still attached.
Thanks for the help Tazza. Your the best!!!
 
My 610 is leaking there also. Does this info apply to it also?
No, an M610 is a different beast all together i'm afraid. There are other members in here with the same machine, i'm sure they would be able to give you the low down on what needs to be done.
 
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