L555 Park Brake

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chrisepp

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Jun 15, 2021
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Can anyone send some pics of how the L555 park brake works? Mine is the sprocket type. What is supposed to engage with the sprockets? The single angled piece that has the spring on both sides? The two steel shafts on those are way bigger than the sprokets? It does not engage at all on the skidsteer I got and need to figure it out.
 

Ivan

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Jan 14, 2011
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215
Can anyone send some pics of how the L555 park brake works? Mine is the sprocket type. What is supposed to engage with the sprockets? The single angled piece that has the spring on both sides? The two steel shafts on those are way bigger than the sprokets? It does not engage at all on the skidsteer I got and need to figure it out.
Did you try to adjust it, Adjustment is toward t he front of the machine I believe
 
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chrisepp

chrisepp

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I did try. With things as they were it was not possible to shift it forward enough for the two stubs on the brake to engage the cogs of each drive motor sprocket though. I don't understand how they are supposed to work, as they are way too thick to actually go into the teeth very far. The parts list on messicks makes it look like there is a bushing, but mine is solid steel, no bushing, like this one.) https://www.ebay.ca/itm/28407569807...rentrq:795130c11810acd9913a041afff540a4|iid:1
 
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chrisepp

chrisepp

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Had another look, I seem to be missing part 9 from this parts diagram at Messicks: https://www.messicks.com/nh/147679

Is that pin what is supposed to engage with the cogs? (that would explain why it doesn't brake) or is it part 3(with bushings 5) that are supposed to fit into the teeth of the cogs? Anyone know the diameter of part 9 if they have one of these? or could measure it? (does it use nuts on the ends to secure it into the two brackets?
 

Ivan

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215
Those brakes will work without that bar. I found the one out of mine in the belly pans when I removed the motor and hydro. I am sure the bushing were in there as well but did not know it when IO threw the crud and dirt away. I have studied th parts diagram over and I still do not know how the brakes work other than mine do. On yours remover the kick panel behind your feet and press on the brake pedal and wath to see what happens back there at the sprockets. When you press the pedal that y bracket where the linkage connects to should move forward pulling the 2 side plate forward at the bottom and they will move back at the top just so far then snap locked in place. Look at the parts diagram very carefully and check yours to see if a pin fell out some where. If your front skid plate has not been removed yyou will find your missing parts in it. If your s will like mine it will have a couple inches of crud in it mixed with grease and who know what. I can get you the size of that bar if you want as mine is till laying on the bench
 
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chrisepp

chrisepp

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Jun 15, 2021
Messages
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Those brakes will work without that bar. I found the one out of mine in the belly pans when I removed the motor and hydro. I am sure the bushing were in there as well but did not know it when IO threw the crud and dirt away. I have studied th parts diagram over and I still do not know how the brakes work other than mine do. On yours remover the kick panel behind your feet and press on the brake pedal and wath to see what happens back there at the sprockets. When you press the pedal that y bracket where the linkage connects to should move forward pulling the 2 side plate forward at the bottom and they will move back at the top just so far then snap locked in place. Look at the parts diagram very carefully and check yours to see if a pin fell out some where. If your front skid plate has not been removed yyou will find your missing parts in it. If your s will like mine it will have a couple inches of crud in it mixed with grease and who know what. I can get you the size of that bar if you want as mine is till laying on the bench
So what part in the diagram actually contacts the sprocket of each motor to keep it from turning?
 

Ivan

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Jan 14, 2011
Messages
215
So what part in the diagram actually contacts the sprocket of each motor to keep it from turning?
None that I can see. The rod you are missing is 1/2 dia and 11 inches long. My rollers are gone but the ends of this rod is dilled an 1/8 inch from each end for a cotter pin. It looks like the rollers snap into something in the back . I don't think this rod connects to anything on the mounting plates. I always wondered what those sprockets do as mine has the paint on them like they were new. I will try putting the rod back in mine and see if I can figure it out. I think there are 2 more roller under these on anot her shaft and if I can get my calibers in there I will measure them and maybe make some in th lathe
 
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chrisepp

chrisepp

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Messages
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None that I can see. The rod you are missing is 1/2 dia and 11 inches long. My rollers are gone but the ends of this rod is dilled an 1/8 inch from each end for a cotter pin. It looks like the rollers snap into something in the back . I don't think this rod connects to anything on the mounting plates. I always wondered what those sprockets do as mine has the paint on them like they were new. I will try putting the rod back in mine and see if I can figure it out. I think there are 2 more roller under these on anot her shaft and if I can get my calibers in there I will measure them and maybe make some in th lathe
I'm pretty sure there is no braking action taking place if something doesn't engage the cogs to stop rotation. What I could not figure out is what should contact the cogs. Looking at the parts diagram, If the 1/2" rod is mounted in the middle holes of the two plates that swing forward and backward, I believe it would pull the rod into the cogs. I'll have to measure, but I expect 1/2" rod fits perfectly into the space between each tooth. My bent piece, whatever it's called does not have the rollers, that go over pins, they are solid steel and do not fit into the cogs. Nothing did, but that 1/2 rod might be the missing part... They want $50 for part 9 here. (Yikes.) So if it's 1/2" and 11" long I'll just get that locally and drill holes for cotter pins and use a couple washers in front of those.

I'm guessing part 9 goes into the middle hole of the side plate as I drew on the image. Then when part 3, which bolts to the bottom hack hole is pulled forward, the rod would engage the cogs (I think) locking the motors... I need to clean everything out I'll see if that hole lines up with the cogs as I suspect. I'll take pics when I can do that.
 

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Ivan

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Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
215
I'm pretty sure there is no braking action taking place if something doesn't engage the cogs to stop rotation. What I could not figure out is what should contact the cogs. Looking at the parts diagram, If the 1/2" rod is mounted in the middle holes of the two plates that swing forward and backward, I believe it would pull the rod into the cogs. I'll have to measure, but I expect 1/2" rod fits perfectly into the space between each tooth. My bent piece, whatever it's called does not have the rollers, that go over pins, they are solid steel and do not fit into the cogs. Nothing did, but that 1/2 rod might be the missing part... They want $50 for part 9 here. (Yikes.) So if it's 1/2" and 11" long I'll just get that locally and drill holes for cotter pins and use a couple washers in front of those.

I'm guessing part 9 goes into the middle hole of the side plate as I drew on the image. Then when part 3, which bolts to the bottom hack hole is pulled forward, the rod would engage the cogs (I think) locking the motors... I need to clean everything out I'll see if that hole lines up with the cogs as I suspect. I'll take pics when I can do that.
Look at you lower roller item 5 and if it is on yours you should e able to get the dim off it if you need them. NH parts seem to be made of gold. My fuel sending unit was bad a few years ago so I went to thelocal dealer. It was 165.00 for one from them. I boujt a whole kit from the web and the sending unit on that was t he same. It cost me around 15.00 for that and it came with the guage. If you ever have to do major work on it check out e bay and prices on t he internet. I bought rings for mine. Kubota was 125 per pist onand I bou Kubota rings from a seller on the inter nent for 25.00 a piston. Same rings and all with Kubota on the box
 
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chrisepp

chrisepp

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Joined
Jun 15, 2021
Messages
35
Look at you lower roller item 5 and if it is on yours you should e able to get the dim off it if you need them. NH parts seem to be made of gold. My fuel sending unit was bad a few years ago so I went to thelocal dealer. It was 165.00 for one from them. I boujt a whole kit from the web and the sending unit on that was t he same. It cost me around 15.00 for that and it came with the guage. If you ever have to do major work on it check out e bay and prices on t he internet. I bought rings for mine. Kubota was 125 per pist onand I bou Kubota rings from a seller on the inter nent for 25.00 a piston. Same rings and all with Kubota on the box
I think there were two designs. That bushing has a OD of 15.82MM according to Messicks. That is the dimension of mine roughly but it's a big solid piece, like the picture I sent. It may be an earlier one, and later it was changed to having a bushing. But even so, those bushings are way too big to fit into the cogs. I thought it would just be a spacer for between part 3 and 6?
 
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chrisepp

chrisepp

Active member
Joined
Jun 15, 2021
Messages
35
None that I can see. The rod you are missing is 1/2 dia and 11 inches long. My rollers are gone but the ends of this rod is dilled an 1/8 inch from each end for a cotter pin. It looks like the rollers snap into something in the back . I don't think this rod connects to anything on the mounting plates. I always wondered what those sprockets do as mine has the paint on them like they were new. I will try putting the rod back in mine and see if I can figure it out. I think there are 2 more roller under these on anot her shaft and if I can get my calibers in there I will measure them and maybe make some in th lathe
I also have to fix the fuel guage, have not had time to see where the issue is, but will definitely not buy OEM... crazy prices. I had to rebuild the Kubota V1902... parts from NH where 10x the same price from a Kubota dealer when i could get a cross reference part number (they make them different on purpose... ) I got it from a neighbor with a supposed head gasket leak according to his mechanic.. well... no. Motor was shot, New head, pistons, rings the works... WAY cheaper not to go through NH... you're sure right on the gold thing...
 

Ivan

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Jan 14, 2011
Messages
215
I checked mine this morning and here is what I found. The bottom rollers when the pedal is pushed lock into the sprocket. The shaft that is missing does the same thing only higher up in the back. The reason mine is working is someone adjusted it so tight that it will work. You need those two top rollers on that top shaft so the brakes lock up solid. Here is what happens when the pedal is pushed it raises the lower roller up while at th same time the rear rollers move forward. On mine I use to be able to move forward with the brake on but it mad a noise like a chain slipping on a sprocket. I bet with the other shaftn placeit will not move at all. My lower rollers are so chewed up it will be hard to get a measurment off them. They look like they are nylon
 
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chrisepp

chrisepp

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Joined
Jun 15, 2021
Messages
35
I checked mine this morning and here is what I found. The bottom rollers when the pedal is pushed lock into the sprocket. The shaft that is missing does the same thing only higher up in the back. The reason mine is working is someone adjusted it so tight that it will work. You need those two top rollers on that top shaft so the brakes lock up solid. Here is what happens when the pedal is pushed it raises the lower roller up while at th same time the rear rollers move forward. On mine I use to be able to move forward with the brake on but it mad a noise like a chain slipping on a sprocket. I bet with the other shaftn placeit will not move at all. My lower rollers are so chewed up it will be hard to get a measurment off them. They look like they are nylon
I got a 11" piece of 1/2" steel rod to make that piece and will see if it will do the engaging I think it should, just dealing with the leak from around the right drive motor because the two bolts holding it to the frame had come loose.
 
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