In need of some schematics

[RJSStamps]

Hello, I am in need of some different schematics for various ways to wire up the fuel shutdown solenoid. For some reason or another even with a relay in place it keeps nurning out the solenoids. Two in a week and this is getting expensive. It's burning out the pull circuit (white wire) so the machine won't start. I am back to using my emergency setup tomorrow.
I found one for a tractor that uses a thermistor to shut off current at a certain temperature. I may try that as the thermistor is a John Deere part. A local dealer should have it and it's cheap to try at $3 to $5 each. I would however like to get some other ideas to try so I am not burning these things up all the time.

Thanks in advance!

RJS

 

[Tazza]

You mention a pull coil, so i assume it has 3 wires?
The way i hooked mine up on my 743 with a Kubota is to wire the ground to ground, the hold to the powered key wire and the pull to the starter. When you turn the key on, the power is on the hold coil, you turn it more to crank and the pull coil is on ONLY while cranking. When it starts you let the key go and the pull coil stops but the hold coil is still there holding the plunger in place.
8 or so years and it's still working 100% for me.

 

[RJSStamps]

You mention a pull coil, so i assume it has 3 wires?
The way i hooked mine up on my 743 with a Kubota is to wire the ground to ground, the hold to the powered key wire and the pull to the starter. When you turn the key on, the power is on the hold coil, you turn it more to crank and the pull coil is on ONLY while cranking. When it starts you let the key go and the pull coil stops but the hold coil is still there holding the plunger in place.
8 or so years and it's still working 100% for me.

Thats how this was but it burned up after a day, put the relay in and that burned up in a day so...... not sure what to do. If I could find one for the Yanmar I'd stick a manual cable setup on it and not have to worry about it.

RJS

 

[Tazza]

Thats how this was but it burned up after a day, put the relay in and that burned up in a day so...... not sure what to do. If I could find one for the Yanmar I'd stick a manual cable setup on it and not have to worry about it.

RJS

That is very weird.... Can you send me a picture of the solenoid?
I'm with you on the manual shut off, would be far cheaper!

 

[RJSStamps]

That is very weird.... Can you send me a picture of the solenoid?
I'm with you on the manual shut off, would be far cheaper!

This the same solenoid: http://www.thermobyproducts.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=41-6383 It just has a pin that pulls to allow fuel flow. The trick is to come up with something so oil doesn't leak where it mounts up. Oil does go into the solenoid to keep it cool too.
RJS

 

[Tazza]

This the same solenoid: http://www.thermobyproducts.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=41-6383 It just has a pin that pulls to allow fuel flow. The trick is to come up with something so oil doesn't leak where it mounts up. Oil does go into the solenoid to keep it cool too.
RJS

If you were to put a cable in there, you would need an O ring or something along those lines to make it manual and not to leak.
I only see two wires there, does it have the ground already fited to the case of the solenoid?

 

[RJSStamps]

If you were to put a cable in there, you would need an O ring or something along those lines to make it manual and not to leak.
I only see two wires there, does it have the ground already fited to the case of the solenoid?

No it is 3 wire, white Pull, red Hold, black Ground.
I did redo my temporary rod setup, ran the machine 4+ hours today and no oil leak! Check my update I am going to do in the emergeny solenoid shutoff thread I started last week. I will explain the changes I made to fix the leak problem.

RJS

 

[RJSStamps]

No it is 3 wire, white Pull, red Hold, black Ground.
I did redo my temporary rod setup, ran the machine 4+ hours today and no oil leak! Check my update I am going to do in the emergeny solenoid shutoff thread I started last week. I will explain the changes I made to fix the leak problem.

RJS

Well day 2 using the rebuilt temporary setup and it ran fine again, no leaks!
Well no schematics so I called Woodward today and they gave me another place to call as they don't actually sell the stuff but have a dealer. Called the dealer and what we came up with is a 6 or 7 wire Coil Commander which limits the pull time to 1.5 seconds to keep from burning up the solenoid. The 6 wire is $120 and waiting on a price for the 7 wire. The only difference is the 7 wire doesn't need a relay so I may go with that.

 

[Tazza]

Well day 2 using the rebuilt temporary setup and it ran fine again, no leaks!
Well no schematics so I called Woodward today and they gave me another place to call as they don't actually sell the stuff but have a dealer. Called the dealer and what we came up with is a 6 or 7 wire Coil Commander which limits the pull time to 1.5 seconds to keep from burning up the solenoid. The 6 wire is $120 and waiting on a price for the 7 wire. The only difference is the 7 wire doesn't need a relay so I may go with that.

I guess it's cheaper than buying new solenoids every few days. I just don't see why its not working how it's wired..... That is how i did mine, very strange.
The only other way that i can think of is to add a momentary push button on the dash. To start, turn the key on, press the button, the solenoid will snap back and be held by the hold coil, proceed to crank. Presto!
That way the pull coil is only active when you press the button.

 

[RJSStamps]

I guess it's cheaper than buying new solenoids every few days. I just don't see why its not working how it's wired..... That is how i did mine, very strange.
The only other way that i can think of is to add a momentary push button on the dash. To start, turn the key on, press the button, the solenoid will snap back and be held by the hold coil, proceed to crank. Presto!
That way the pull coil is only active when you press the button.

I don't get it either! But they just keep burning up. Today I ordered a new solenoid, the coil cammander (6 wire) and picked up 6 gallons of 10-30 for the hydraulics, oh, and a different relay for the above setup instead of going off the starter it will go through this one. I got 5 quart jugs of oil for $12 each at Advance Auto Parts where I have an account. Also got two parts for my 97 Dodge Ram 2500HD, new tie rod sleeve and new steering drag link. Still need the steering stabilizer shock. After replacing this stuff the truck will have had all the front end replaced in the last year. Hopefully the steering won't shake anymore!

RJS

 

[Tazza]

I don't get it either! But they just keep burning up. Today I ordered a new solenoid, the coil cammander (6 wire) and picked up 6 gallons of 10-30 for the hydraulics, oh, and a different relay for the above setup instead of going off the starter it will go through this one. I got 5 quart jugs of oil for $12 each at Advance Auto Parts where I have an account. Also got two parts for my 97 Dodge Ram 2500HD, new tie rod sleeve and new steering drag link. Still need the steering stabilizer shock. After replacing this stuff the truck will have had all the front end replaced in the last year. Hopefully the steering won't shake anymore!

RJS

*fingers crossed* hopefully your skid steer and turck will be like new soon enough

 

[RJSStamps]

*fingers crossed* hopefully your skid steer and turck will be like new soon enough

lol, the skidsteer is fine now....the truck on the otherhand isn't so good. Still can't figure out why the frontends shaking so bad! It acts like a wheel is falling off. Oh well, only two more parts I can replace and then everything in the frontends been fixed! About $1200 so far and no fix!!