Hydraulic Oil Question

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92LX555

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Mar 24, 2008
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My unit is a 555 and as I stated when I first joined, I use the hell out of it. I probably should just pony up and get a new unit but I am a cheap SOB so I won't. Last night, when I went to start the unit I noticed white fluid under it. Most probably from a hydraulic leak and I have water in the fluid. I always fire the unit up and it idles for 15 minutes to 30 mintues before I get around to using it. Partly because I have other stuff that needs to get done and partly becasue I have noticed that when it is really cold like it has been (5 with the wind chill this AM), that the boom does not move fast enough. If I wait, the boom moves just fine. Anyway, after I had used the unit for about 5 minutes, I went to pick up a round bale and my boom got stuck. It stopped in one position and I could not move. The pedals appeared to be operating the boom slighty in the opposite direction of what they should be doing. After not touching the pedals for a couple of minutes I would get the boom back briefly, enough to spear the bale and pick it up. I then would take it to the pasture and I would have the boom moving correcting to drop the bale but I could not do much beyond that. So my question is: Knowing without a doubt that I have water in the hyro oil and this casued the probelm, I plan on draining the oil out tonight. I have heard people talk about using 10W 30 engine oil (diesel oil?) instead of hydry fluild. Can I do this with my unit? I modified my cylinder that runs the bucket on this unit. The 555 only came with ONE cylinder on the bucket and I constantly was braking it so I mounted two mounting brackets on the boom and on the attachment plate and now run two cylinders, similar to newer units. This added to the capacity though on the hydro fluid and it now takes about 17 gallons to completly fill. It is pretty expensive to use the hyrdo oil as a result so if I can get away with 10W 30 oil that would be great. Thanks....this board has saved my ass multiple times in the past year.
 

Earthwerks Unlimited

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Dec 21, 2007
Messages
303
The white fluid may not be just water in it. It is likely aerated meaning it is full of air bubbles. Air AND water are a bad mix. But either one will cause the pump to wear out FAST! If it's been cold enough to fereeze the wtaer may have crystalized in the system especially the filter(s). Keep in mind if you only repalce the reservoir with new oil, you still have many gallons caught in the lines and the cylinders which will take several total changes to get rid of it. The 10W-30 motor oil is something New Hololand says to use for several reasons: it resists foaming (aeration), and prevents corrosion or rust in the system, and it has detergents in it. Motor oil can get really expensive so I use regular hydraulic fluid (about $43 from Lowes or about $2.15 per quart versus $3-4 per quart for motor oil) and have had no adverse reactions. Does your 555 use the chain cases as a reservoir? If yes they create a lot of condensation which ends up in the oil. And do you have a brass mesh-type filter near the seat? If yes, they tend to restrict flow and tend accumulate a gooey, snot-like bacteria on them which has to be cleaned otherwise you will satrve the pump and get aeration.
 
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92LX555

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Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
83
The white fluid may not be just water in it. It is likely aerated meaning it is full of air bubbles. Air AND water are a bad mix. But either one will cause the pump to wear out FAST! If it's been cold enough to fereeze the wtaer may have crystalized in the system especially the filter(s). Keep in mind if you only repalce the reservoir with new oil, you still have many gallons caught in the lines and the cylinders which will take several total changes to get rid of it. The 10W-30 motor oil is something New Hololand says to use for several reasons: it resists foaming (aeration), and prevents corrosion or rust in the system, and it has detergents in it. Motor oil can get really expensive so I use regular hydraulic fluid (about $43 from Lowes or about $2.15 per quart versus $3-4 per quart for motor oil) and have had no adverse reactions. Does your 555 use the chain cases as a reservoir? If yes they create a lot of condensation which ends up in the oil. And do you have a brass mesh-type filter near the seat? If yes, they tend to restrict flow and tend accumulate a gooey, snot-like bacteria on them which has to be cleaned otherwise you will satrve the pump and get aeration.
Earthworks....where have you been all day? I have been waiting for your response so I knew what to do. I just assumed that 10W30 oil was cheaper but after hearing your comments and checking I agree that it is not so I will just stick to Hyd. oil. Only draw back is the unit takes over 15 Gallons to fill. My unit has chain cases as the reservoir and I do have ONE filter in the cab by the seat near the feet on the right hand side that is brass. I also have a larger filter in the rear of the machine as well. Odd thing is I don't think I am low on fluid as the charge light does not come on. I guess I need to drain the system completely and start with fresh fluid and see what happens. Thanks PS> I noticed you are SE MI? Me also. Work in Livonia and live in Livingston County. Snow coming so I gotta get it running right tonight. I live on a farm and when it snows I end having to remove alot of snow from the paddocks so the horses/cows don't slip and break a hip. I end up plowing 5 neighbors as well.
 
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92LX555

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Mar 24, 2008
Messages
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Earthworks....where have you been all day? I have been waiting for your response so I knew what to do. I just assumed that 10W30 oil was cheaper but after hearing your comments and checking I agree that it is not so I will just stick to Hyd. oil. Only draw back is the unit takes over 15 Gallons to fill. My unit has chain cases as the reservoir and I do have ONE filter in the cab by the seat near the feet on the right hand side that is brass. I also have a larger filter in the rear of the machine as well. Odd thing is I don't think I am low on fluid as the charge light does not come on. I guess I need to drain the system completely and start with fresh fluid and see what happens. Thanks PS> I noticed you are SE MI? Me also. Work in Livonia and live in Livingston County. Snow coming so I gotta get it running right tonight. I live on a farm and when it snows I end having to remove alot of snow from the paddocks so the horses/cows don't slip and break a hip. I end up plowing 5 neighbors as well.
One more thing..... I just check at TSC, they sell a Acel 303 trator hydraulic fluid in a 5 gal bucket for $34.99 and a Traveller (TSC Brand) universal hydraulic 5 gal bucket for $43.99 Any problem with using the 303 given that it is cheaper?
 

Earthwerks Unlimited

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Joined
Dec 21, 2007
Messages
303
One more thing..... I just check at TSC, they sell a Acel 303 trator hydraulic fluid in a 5 gal bucket for $34.99 and a Traveller (TSC Brand) universal hydraulic 5 gal bucket for $43.99 Any problem with using the 303 given that it is cheaper?
Hey neighba'! I'm in Flat Rock minutes away from you. Luckily we aren't seeing the snow they forecasted YET (it's only 6:30 am on Sat.). I would get the cheaper stuff if you're going to use it to flush. You gotta clean that brass strainer first and keep an eye on it. If it were me, when it comes time to drain the cases I'd get the machine really warm in a garage, drain the cases fully and then flush it with a gallon or two of diesel, let it sit for a few hours then while the plugs are still out flush it with the cheap oil to get rid of the diesel residual then let that set. Then fill with good stuff. As far as the cylinders needing purging, it's not safe but it can be done, is raise the loader fully, then get out and slowly loosen the hydraulic fitting at the cylinder and let it leak out. Same with the bucket cylinder(s). My buddy has my former 555 with Perkins in it for sale. Before I sold it to him I put on new paint, decals, tires, rims, engine hood, lights, starter, fluids, pump. It's in South Lyon. I sold him the tracks too, but he has another machine too so he may want to keep them. Oh and I converted this machine to use the standard quick attach too at $800. If your're interested give me a call at 734 552-3317 anytime day or nite---- or if you need help with your machine too. All I need is your credit card number and expiration date--- tehehehehehe
 

Tazza

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Hey neighba'! I'm in Flat Rock minutes away from you. Luckily we aren't seeing the snow they forecasted YET (it's only 6:30 am on Sat.). I would get the cheaper stuff if you're going to use it to flush. You gotta clean that brass strainer first and keep an eye on it. If it were me, when it comes time to drain the cases I'd get the machine really warm in a garage, drain the cases fully and then flush it with a gallon or two of diesel, let it sit for a few hours then while the plugs are still out flush it with the cheap oil to get rid of the diesel residual then let that set. Then fill with good stuff. As far as the cylinders needing purging, it's not safe but it can be done, is raise the loader fully, then get out and slowly loosen the hydraulic fitting at the cylinder and let it leak out. Same with the bucket cylinder(s). My buddy has my former 555 with Perkins in it for sale. Before I sold it to him I put on new paint, decals, tires, rims, engine hood, lights, starter, fluids, pump. It's in South Lyon. I sold him the tracks too, but he has another machine too so he may want to keep them. Oh and I converted this machine to use the standard quick attach too at $800. If your're interested give me a call at 734 552-3317 anytime day or nite---- or if you need help with your machine too. All I need is your credit card number and expiration date--- tehehehehehe
LOL i can use another CC too!
I can't give any better advise than that, i do like the idea of using cheap fluid just to get the water out.
Good luck!
 
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92LX555

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Mar 24, 2008
Messages
83
Hey neighba'! I'm in Flat Rock minutes away from you. Luckily we aren't seeing the snow they forecasted YET (it's only 6:30 am on Sat.). I would get the cheaper stuff if you're going to use it to flush. You gotta clean that brass strainer first and keep an eye on it. If it were me, when it comes time to drain the cases I'd get the machine really warm in a garage, drain the cases fully and then flush it with a gallon or two of diesel, let it sit for a few hours then while the plugs are still out flush it with the cheap oil to get rid of the diesel residual then let that set. Then fill with good stuff. As far as the cylinders needing purging, it's not safe but it can be done, is raise the loader fully, then get out and slowly loosen the hydraulic fitting at the cylinder and let it leak out. Same with the bucket cylinder(s). My buddy has my former 555 with Perkins in it for sale. Before I sold it to him I put on new paint, decals, tires, rims, engine hood, lights, starter, fluids, pump. It's in South Lyon. I sold him the tracks too, but he has another machine too so he may want to keep them. Oh and I converted this machine to use the standard quick attach too at $800. If your're interested give me a call at 734 552-3317 anytime day or nite---- or if you need help with your machine too. All I need is your credit card number and expiration date--- tehehehehehe
Sorry.....Once I got married one of the first things I did was get rid of credit cards. Cash only for me. But, if you could help I could always pay you later...........LOL. I ended up getting the cheap stuff and drained the unit on Saturday AM before I had to do any snow removal. That stuff was gray and very waterery. Looked nothing like oil. I just did the crankcase and cleaned the filter. Filler her back up with the 303 (15 gallons of it), let it run for a few minutes and I was back in business. Ran it all weekend and had no issues. Not really interested in another 555 but if the price is right? The tracks would be a plus. It really cost $800 to convert to the quick attach? Seems kinda of high.
 

Earthwerks Unlimited

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Dec 21, 2007
Messages
303
Sorry.....Once I got married one of the first things I did was get rid of credit cards. Cash only for me. But, if you could help I could always pay you later...........LOL. I ended up getting the cheap stuff and drained the unit on Saturday AM before I had to do any snow removal. That stuff was gray and very waterery. Looked nothing like oil. I just did the crankcase and cleaned the filter. Filler her back up with the 303 (15 gallons of it), let it run for a few minutes and I was back in business. Ran it all weekend and had no issues. Not really interested in another 555 but if the price is right? The tracks would be a plus. It really cost $800 to convert to the quick attach? Seems kinda of high.
Just the CRANKcase?! No wonder your machine has issues!! You mean CHAINcase! We gotta keep an eye on you!
Oh sure, we can work out an easy payment plan--it'll be $100 plus parts and labor, payable in one payment, with nothing to pay at 0% interest over 12 months.
 
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92LX555

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Mar 24, 2008
Messages
83
Just the CRANKcase?! No wonder your machine has issues!! You mean CHAINcase! We gotta keep an eye on you!
Oh sure, we can work out an easy payment plan--it'll be $100 plus parts and labor, payable in one payment, with nothing to pay at 0% interest over 12 months.
I never said I was smart. I guess I typed away before I though about it. I paid $4500 for my unit 2 years ago. It was my neighbors back up unit on his dairy farm and I guess he kind of got tired of me asking to borrow it. It had a Kubota disiel in it that had less than 200 hours on it and the machine had just under 4000 hours. The old block was cracked by one of the boys who sprayed her with starting fluid one cold day. They still have the old motor so I have spare parts if needed. We run the hell out of our unit. I have three attachments for mine, the bucket (which is an oversize bucket that is great with manure and snow), a round bale spear, and then a home made 4 bale spear set-up for the large sqaure bales. Funny but true story.......when I take the round bales out to the horses (we run 40 +), I drop the bale and then keep the boom all of the way in the air to avoid spearing any of them on the way out. Well, at the gate area it gets pretty muddy and there can be some serious tracks through there. Last year, while heading out of the gate with the boom still up and quite a bit top heavy, I hit one of them there ruts and it slid the unit. When the wheels bottomed out, the unit tipped over on its side. It was quite the ride and it felt like the whole thing happened in slow motion. I had to call the neighbor and his BIG tractor over to tip it back on its side. Anyway, bracing for some serious cold starting tonight. Better keep her plugeed in.
 
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