- Joined
- May 11, 2011
- Messages
- 100
Home made T-post driver and frame.
(Hope this helps someone else.)
The why behind it. The soil in area is hard clay. With occasional shallow layers of shale. There of course are normal issues with tree roots. Trying to drive a T-post with normal hand driver takes forever. Trying to push T-post in via bucket or arm, sometimes works, but usually results in bent T-posts.
With this driver and frame - It is possible to drive partially set T-posts without a helper. Cordless 1/2" drill with ground auger bit, and T-post fence step. Drill hole, insert T-post, attach step, and step down. Post only needs to go in far enough to stand up straight.
The T-post driver's metal pipes keeps T-post from permanently bending under pressure required to get thru hard clay, layers of shale, and/or tree roots. At least as used thus far.
A prior version of T-post driver had no room for T-post to bend, even down past T-posts spades. However, it was hard to fabricate (involved spring-loaded door hinges as flippers), and each T-post had to be hand aligned pushed into bottom pipe where it was cut for T-posts spades to slide in at.
The horizontal pipe at top is filled with sand to give T-post driver extra weight when required for hard ground.
The quick attach plate is 1/2" thick and bought.
The flex X & Y connector was salvaged from hanging end of earth Auger.
The T-post driver itself is heavy walled pipe just big enough for T-post to slide into, and another heavy walled pipe to slide into.
Two pieces of pipe have to overlap sufficiently to prevent buckling of either pipe and insure smooth sliding.
Welded on to sliding pipe is pipe flange reducer to heavy walled section of pipe big enough for T-post spades to fit inside.
Finally a large pipe flange reducer is welled to bottom of pipe the spades go into. It acts a guide (a funnel) for going over top of T-post. Large flange reducer also acts as depth-set stop against ground.
Lastly, a pair of rods are welded on bottom (largest) pipe. The rods go up side of sliding pipe and pass thru pair of small steel tubes which are welded onto to not moving upper pipe. Ends passing thru small steel tubes are threaded for adjustment via nuts. The threaded ends have pair of springs and heavy rubber bushings to prevent damage from a sliding pipe dropping down.
There is one problem yet to be resolved. Simple way to reduce the T-post driver from swinging when moving to next T-post. The salvaged flex X & Y connector moves to easily. Considering a chain from T-post driver back to frame to limit amount of swing.
Happy driving!
(Hope this helps someone else.)
The why behind it. The soil in area is hard clay. With occasional shallow layers of shale. There of course are normal issues with tree roots. Trying to drive a T-post with normal hand driver takes forever. Trying to push T-post in via bucket or arm, sometimes works, but usually results in bent T-posts.
With this driver and frame - It is possible to drive partially set T-posts without a helper. Cordless 1/2" drill with ground auger bit, and T-post fence step. Drill hole, insert T-post, attach step, and step down. Post only needs to go in far enough to stand up straight.
The T-post driver's metal pipes keeps T-post from permanently bending under pressure required to get thru hard clay, layers of shale, and/or tree roots. At least as used thus far.
A prior version of T-post driver had no room for T-post to bend, even down past T-posts spades. However, it was hard to fabricate (involved spring-loaded door hinges as flippers), and each T-post had to be hand aligned pushed into bottom pipe where it was cut for T-posts spades to slide in at.
The horizontal pipe at top is filled with sand to give T-post driver extra weight when required for hard ground.
The quick attach plate is 1/2" thick and bought.
The flex X & Y connector was salvaged from hanging end of earth Auger.
The T-post driver itself is heavy walled pipe just big enough for T-post to slide into, and another heavy walled pipe to slide into.
Two pieces of pipe have to overlap sufficiently to prevent buckling of either pipe and insure smooth sliding.
Welded on to sliding pipe is pipe flange reducer to heavy walled section of pipe big enough for T-post spades to fit inside.
Finally a large pipe flange reducer is welled to bottom of pipe the spades go into. It acts a guide (a funnel) for going over top of T-post. Large flange reducer also acts as depth-set stop against ground.
Lastly, a pair of rods are welded on bottom (largest) pipe. The rods go up side of sliding pipe and pass thru pair of small steel tubes which are welded onto to not moving upper pipe. Ends passing thru small steel tubes are threaded for adjustment via nuts. The threaded ends have pair of springs and heavy rubber bushings to prevent damage from a sliding pipe dropping down.
There is one problem yet to be resolved. Simple way to reduce the T-post driver from swinging when moving to next T-post. The salvaged flex X & Y connector moves to easily. Considering a chain from T-post driver back to frame to limit amount of swing.
Happy driving!
