Helpful video for spool repair

[HanSolo]

Here's a video I found on youTube that's very informative. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9dm2XI1tIc. The video producer made some mechanical mistakes but freely admits them. This is really going to help me when I tackle the spools on my 843! Please comment with additional tips and procedures.

 

[Tazza]

The best advise i can give you is to give the area a good clean first. Access to the allen headed bolts that hold the caps on can be hard to get at the front, but it can be done.
I'd first drain the tank through the aux couplers to lowert the mess.
I actually replaced seals in my 743 with the valve in place, it wasn't fun, but totally doable. Hopefully your bigger machine may have a little more room to get in there.

 

[HanSolo]

The best advise i can give you is to give the area a good clean first. Access to the allen headed bolts that hold the caps on can be hard to get at the front, but it can be done.
I'd first drain the tank through the aux couplers to lowert the mess.
I actually replaced seals in my 743 with the valve in place, it wasn't fun, but totally doable. Hopefully your bigger machine may have a little more room to get in there.

Yeah, looks like he used about five socket extensions through the engine compartment... funny. I'm not afraid to climb in there with the battery out. His trick for getting the linkage back on was interesting too. While I'm in the area I'll attempt to grease the u-joints also.

 

[HanSolo]

Oh, by the way, there's four spools. One of which is the rear aux. circuit. Does that actually have any plumbing? Can it leak?

 

[Tazza]

Oh, by the way, there's four spools. One of which is the rear aux. circuit. Does that actually have any plumbing? Can it leak?

In theory it can leak, but if it isn't moved, it probably never will. As you are there, it wouldn't hurt to do it too, just in case. You don't want to kick your self later for not doing it. I just don't bother replacing the front boot that protects the end of the spool.

 

[HanSolo]

In theory it can leak, but if it isn't moved, it probably never will. As you are there, it wouldn't hurt to do it too, just in case. You don't want to kick your self later for not doing it. I just don't bother replacing the front boot that protects the end of the spool.

Okay. I started in on the bucket spool this evening. Cleaned the area up, drained the hydraulic tank and pulled off the connecting linkage. Following the video, I then removed the two allen screws from the rear cover. When I pulled on the cover (expecting the spool to slide out) it came off the end of the spool and out fell one of the small springs and a bearing. Okay... no worries I thought to myself... So now the end of the spool is exposed with the large spring and I'm pulling that expecting it to slide out. It moves in the bore as much as it should to function but there's something preventing it from coming out the rear. I did not remove the front cover with the rubber boot. Is there a cir-clip under that has to be removed?

 

[Tazza]

Okay. I started in on the bucket spool this evening. Cleaned the area up, drained the hydraulic tank and pulled off the connecting linkage. Following the video, I then removed the two allen screws from the rear cover. When I pulled on the cover (expecting the spool to slide out) it came off the end of the spool and out fell one of the small springs and a bearing. Okay... no worries I thought to myself... So now the end of the spool is exposed with the large spring and I'm pulling that expecting it to slide out. It moves in the bore as much as it should to function but there's something preventing it from coming out the rear. I did not remove the front cover with the rubber boot. Is there a cir-clip under that has to be removed?

There is no C clip at the front, but where the boot is, it may be binding up the spool as you try and pull it out. The boots need to come out to gain access to replace teh front seal too.
With it off, it should slide out, try pulling and twisting at the same time.

 

[HanSolo]

There is no C clip at the front, but where the boot is, it may be binding up the spool as you try and pull it out. The boots need to come out to gain access to replace teh front seal too.
With it off, it should slide out, try pulling and twisting at the same time.

This is one greasy, dirty repair... wow! This evening I got in there with the 3/16" hex socket and the screws came out 10 times easier. I got three of the spools out but when I pulled the fourth (most inboard, aux.) the back of the spool comes up against the motor plate before it clears the control block. Most unfortunate! Looks like I'll need about 2-3" more space to get it out. So I guess I'll take out the motor mount bolts, remove the exhaust pipe and try to wiggle the motor back enough to get that space. Hopefully the collar on the drive won't come off the splines! That will be a great time to lube the u-joints while there's extra space too.

 

[lfutrell]

This is one greasy, dirty repair... wow! This evening I got in there with the 3/16" hex socket and the screws came out 10 times easier. I got three of the spools out but when I pulled the fourth (most inboard, aux.) the back of the spool comes up against the motor plate before it clears the control block. Most unfortunate! Looks like I'll need about 2-3" more space to get it out. So I guess I'll take out the motor mount bolts, remove the exhaust pipe and try to wiggle the motor back enough to get that space. Hopefully the collar on the drive won't come off the splines! That will be a great time to lube the u-joints while there's extra space too.

Go ahead and replace the seals in that unused spool, When I did mine I didn't, and in less than a month I was back in it replacing them because it was leaking out the back, You are already in there and already dirty and talking ugly, the seals dont't cost much and you have peace of mind that they are done,

 

[HanSolo]

Go ahead and replace the seals in that unused spool, When I did mine I didn't, and in less than a month I was back in it replacing them because it was leaking out the back, You are already in there and already dirty and talking ugly, the seals dont't cost much and you have peace of mind that they are done,

Yeah, I got all four out Saturday. Here's some photos of some real wrench turning fun...

This is how I pulled the motor back about three inches to get the in-board spool out. Come along anchored to a tree and a pry bar to get the motor plate up over the lower lip of the bottom chassis (just barely).

Here's the rear of the control block with spools out. Note the offset bore to except the seal and bushing.

This is the front of the control block. The bushings are still in the bores. That had me stumped for a while (couldn't figure out where the seals went) until I started poking around with a screw driver. That's when the bushings came out. Indentical to the rear seal and bushings.

And the spools cleaned up ready for re-installation. The longer caps are the boom and aux spools which have float. Under those outer caps are another with the spring and balls (detuant) discribed in the YouTube video. I had #1 come apart on me when pulling it out and used the videos procedure to get it back together. A real exercise in patience and creative harsh language. Set aside several hours if you have to do that! Note the black seals ready for replacement. Also, those copper color rings are the “brass filters” that act as a retaining ring for the rubber boots. They're textured and I cleaned them up with a wire brush. The old boots are toast and will be replaced.

 

[Tazza]

Yeah, I got all four out Saturday. Here's some photos of some real wrench turning fun...

This is how I pulled the motor back about three inches to get the in-board spool out. Come along anchored to a tree and a pry bar to get the motor plate up over the lower lip of the bottom chassis (just barely).

Here's the rear of the control block with spools out. Note the offset bore to except the seal and bushing.

This is the front of the control block. The bushings are still in the bores. That had me stumped for a while (couldn't figure out where the seals went) until I started poking around with a screw driver. That's when the bushings came out. Indentical to the rear seal and bushings.

And the spools cleaned up ready for re-installation. The longer caps are the boom and aux spools which have float. Under those outer caps are another with the spring and balls (detuant) discribed in the YouTube video. I had #1 come apart on me when pulling it out and used the videos procedure to get it back together. A real exercise in patience and creative harsh language. Set aside several hours if you have to do that! Note the black seals ready for replacement. Also, those copper color rings are the “brass filters” that act as a retaining ring for the rubber boots. They're textured and I cleaned them up with a wire brush. The old boots are toast and will be replaced.

I don't think you need those brass rings when you replace the boots. They were used on the old style ones that were made of plastic, not the new rubber ones.