Help With Cab Issue! ! !

Skidsteer Forum - Bobcat, New Holland, Case, John Deere

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Ngraz

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Mar 1, 2015
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Ok so I have a Bobcat 763 F-series and I am trying to lift the cab to deal with what I think is a problem with the seat safety switch. I get the two 3/4" bolts out that are in the front corners of the cab and when I lift up it raises to about the height of the bolts that were holding it down. I can't seem to get it to come up any higher. Is there some kind of safety that I am missing? I worked on it for a while today and could not locate any other safety latches. Someone out there has to have had the same issue before. It's driving me nuts! Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks
 
Lift harder, seriously. I've had some I swore were stuck but when the helper shocks on the sides at the back go bad, these cabs don't go up easily. You might want to get someone else to help lift it. I did have one that froze to the main frame but it was a cab heat unit and the foam that seals the cab to the main frame had gotten wet and then froze.
 
If you have a rear window, make sure nothing is lodged up against it on the outside of the machine. You can break the glass when tipping the cab. I normally keep a grease gun there and forgot to remove it once when raising the cab. Yea, it took out the window, thankfully they aren't too expensive.
 
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If you have a rear window, make sure nothing is lodged up against it on the outside of the machine. You can break the glass when tipping the cab. I normally keep a grease gun there and forgot to remove it once when raising the cab. Yea, it took out the window, thankfully they aren't too expensive.
My 742 does have a latching mechanism on the right side at the ROPS pivot point. It has a wire cable attached that you must pull to open the latch as you raise the ROPS. It then latches the cage in the up position when fully lifted. You have to pull the cable to lower the cage as well. See if yours is similar.
 
My 742 does have a latching mechanism on the right side at the ROPS pivot point. It has a wire cable attached that you must pull to open the latch as you raise the ROPS. It then latches the cage in the up position when fully lifted. You have to pull the cable to lower the cage as well. See if yours is similar.
 photo raisecab1_zpsfho8hxvo.jpg


 photo raisecab2_zpszdlzin9r.jpg
 
Thanks everyone for the quick replies. I have not had a chance to try all of the tips posted, it has been pretty cold here. I am going to work on it today I will post how I make out, Thanks!
 
Thanks everyone for the quick replies. I have not had a chance to try all of the tips posted, it has been pretty cold here. I am going to work on it today I will post how I make out, Thanks!
Ok so I got the cab to come up it turns out that there is no other safety mechanism on this particular model. Once you get the two 3/4" bolts out in the front corners of the cab you can lift it up. It is cold here and it has not been opened in a long time, got another guy to give me a hand opening it and it came right up with no issue (I did have to use a bar to get the cab to separate from the frame as it was very frozen). I just needed that little bit of help. I would definitely recommend using some kind of safety other than the one the Bobcat already has on the gas pistons. That cab is heavy and if it came down on you you would be seriously injured. I got a ratchet strap hooked it in the roof of the machine and down to an anchor just below the motor on the outside. Once I got it up I could start doing the removal of the old exhaust pipe. The exhaust pipe had rotted out and I found a new exhaust pipe and spark arrestor on Ebay for under $400. I called my local Bobcat and it was almost $500 just for the spark arrestor. Getting the old bolts out of the exhaust manifold was difficult, between the tiny bit of space in there to work and the bolts being in there for 20+ years I did break two bolts. The key for me on this was using Kroil generously and heating the manifold around the bolt and just working the bolts forward and backwards slowly with an impact gun. If you go right for it with a 1/2" impact gun they are going to break. What I did was just a quick pull of the trigger in the forward position and then a quick pull of the trigger in the reverse position. I worked it back and forth like this until I could feel that the bolt was coming out. The two bolts that I broke were the top left and bottom left on the exhaust pipe flange. For these I had enough room to drill them out and just through bolt that side of the exhaust pipe. Luckily the two hardest bolts to get at were the top right and bottom right and those actually came out. Once you get the bolts out, which if I was to do it again I would taken my time even more so. You are pretty much golden the hardest part at the end of all of this was just getting a nut to thread onto the two new bolts that were through bolted. The location is a nightmare. If you are starting this project just take your time and you will get them out. . . . eventually. Also if you have never heard of Kroil you need to get your hands on some. It is hands down the best penetrating oil on the market. I work in the power plant maintenance industry and this is the key to removing a lot of stuck bolts. A bolt that has literally been in a hole for 100 years will come out without breaking with a bunch of Kroil and an equal amount of patience. PB blaster has nothing on Kroil. It is made by Kano Industries and you can find it on Ebay I have only seen it once in an auto parts store, it's really not something that is easily available to the public.
 
Ok so I got the cab to come up it turns out that there is no other safety mechanism on this particular model. Once you get the two 3/4" bolts out in the front corners of the cab you can lift it up. It is cold here and it has not been opened in a long time, got another guy to give me a hand opening it and it came right up with no issue (I did have to use a bar to get the cab to separate from the frame as it was very frozen). I just needed that little bit of help. I would definitely recommend using some kind of safety other than the one the Bobcat already has on the gas pistons. That cab is heavy and if it came down on you you would be seriously injured. I got a ratchet strap hooked it in the roof of the machine and down to an anchor just below the motor on the outside. Once I got it up I could start doing the removal of the old exhaust pipe. The exhaust pipe had rotted out and I found a new exhaust pipe and spark arrestor on Ebay for under $400. I called my local Bobcat and it was almost $500 just for the spark arrestor. Getting the old bolts out of the exhaust manifold was difficult, between the tiny bit of space in there to work and the bolts being in there for 20+ years I did break two bolts. The key for me on this was using Kroil generously and heating the manifold around the bolt and just working the bolts forward and backwards slowly with an impact gun. If you go right for it with a 1/2" impact gun they are going to break. What I did was just a quick pull of the trigger in the forward position and then a quick pull of the trigger in the reverse position. I worked it back and forth like this until I could feel that the bolt was coming out. The two bolts that I broke were the top left and bottom left on the exhaust pipe flange. For these I had enough room to drill them out and just through bolt that side of the exhaust pipe. Luckily the two hardest bolts to get at were the top right and bottom right and those actually came out. Once you get the bolts out, which if I was to do it again I would taken my time even more so. You are pretty much golden the hardest part at the end of all of this was just getting a nut to thread onto the two new bolts that were through bolted. The location is a nightmare. If you are starting this project just take your time and you will get them out. . . . eventually. Also if you have never heard of Kroil you need to get your hands on some. It is hands down the best penetrating oil on the market. I work in the power plant maintenance industry and this is the key to removing a lot of stuck bolts. A bolt that has literally been in a hole for 100 years will come out without breaking with a bunch of Kroil and an equal amount of patience. PB blaster has nothing on Kroil. It is made by Kano Industries and you can find it on Ebay I have only seen it once in an auto parts store, it's really not something that is easily available to the public.
Good job knew you could do it....
 
Ok so I got the cab to come up it turns out that there is no other safety mechanism on this particular model. Once you get the two 3/4" bolts out in the front corners of the cab you can lift it up. It is cold here and it has not been opened in a long time, got another guy to give me a hand opening it and it came right up with no issue (I did have to use a bar to get the cab to separate from the frame as it was very frozen). I just needed that little bit of help. I would definitely recommend using some kind of safety other than the one the Bobcat already has on the gas pistons. That cab is heavy and if it came down on you you would be seriously injured. I got a ratchet strap hooked it in the roof of the machine and down to an anchor just below the motor on the outside. Once I got it up I could start doing the removal of the old exhaust pipe. The exhaust pipe had rotted out and I found a new exhaust pipe and spark arrestor on Ebay for under $400. I called my local Bobcat and it was almost $500 just for the spark arrestor. Getting the old bolts out of the exhaust manifold was difficult, between the tiny bit of space in there to work and the bolts being in there for 20+ years I did break two bolts. The key for me on this was using Kroil generously and heating the manifold around the bolt and just working the bolts forward and backwards slowly with an impact gun. If you go right for it with a 1/2" impact gun they are going to break. What I did was just a quick pull of the trigger in the forward position and then a quick pull of the trigger in the reverse position. I worked it back and forth like this until I could feel that the bolt was coming out. The two bolts that I broke were the top left and bottom left on the exhaust pipe flange. For these I had enough room to drill them out and just through bolt that side of the exhaust pipe. Luckily the two hardest bolts to get at were the top right and bottom right and those actually came out. Once you get the bolts out, which if I was to do it again I would taken my time even more so. You are pretty much golden the hardest part at the end of all of this was just getting a nut to thread onto the two new bolts that were through bolted. The location is a nightmare. If you are starting this project just take your time and you will get them out. . . . eventually. Also if you have never heard of Kroil you need to get your hands on some. It is hands down the best penetrating oil on the market. I work in the power plant maintenance industry and this is the key to removing a lot of stuck bolts. A bolt that has literally been in a hole for 100 years will come out without breaking with a bunch of Kroil and an equal amount of patience. PB blaster has nothing on Kroil. It is made by Kano Industries and you can find it on Ebay I have only seen it once in an auto parts store, it's really not something that is easily available to the public.
I believe you machine should have shocks on both sides of the cab if it's a cab machine. I'm assuming it is since it was frozen to the frame. A good tip is to take the front door off and slide the windows to the back/open position before opening. I open the windows mostly to prevent them from slamming open when I roll the cab up. Glad you got it and Yep! Kano Kroil is GREAT. I had a friend who worked at a manufacturing plant in maintenance introduce me to it about 5 years ago.
 

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