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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Fishfiles" data-source="post: 47077" data-attributes="member: 782"><p>I hear your rant , but can't help you cause you didn't really give any informaton on what you got and whats happening ------------- a track is discribed as a long journey , so traction is a long journey that you can't get started on ------------Bobcat tried their hand at a seat sensor switch and that was a total failure , does your BICS box have the word seat and seat bar on it , if so the upgrade will take care of your problem ,  there was a silent recall on BICS with seat sensors  , if you had a problem with it during warranty they would upgrade you to the BICS controller without a seat sensor , if you made it pass the warranty time then you were on your own and had to pay the bucks  , if you hae a seat BICS you can lift the seat , take the sensor off the bottom of the seat , put it in the operate positon and tape and strap it up so it tells the controller someone is always in the seat ------------- the brake can be easily gutted , but there will be no brake at all  , which is not the safe thing to do ---------- the way that solinoid works is there are three wires going to it , one is a ground ,  one is called the pull wire , which energizes and pulls the plunger in momentarilly till the second wire which is the hold wire energizes and holds the plunger in and the voltage to the pull is released , if you put voltage to the pull side all the time it will burn up the solinoid fast , what makes it hard to jump out electrically is that they run 9 volts through the saftey sytem and into the controller , which sends a signal to the relay which jumps 12 volt power to the brake solinoid  ------------the question is : those green lights by the traction lock , are any of them trying to flash you a morse  code of what is going wrong</p></blockquote><p></p>

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