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TheMaster

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Hello Everybody, I bought an old CASE 1845B last year and my life has never been the same. I've had good times when it works and bad times when it breaks down. It costs about $1,000 (up and down)to have it towed to a repair shop from where I am located. I use it for personal use as an home owner to clean up around the property, landscaping and snow removal. I've been looking for a Skid Steer forum for a while now and am so glad to run into this site today. I hope to get and share information with members here. I bought a service manual (as big as the machine) and the parts manual for easy reference. The CASE dealer in Ontario robs you silly. The cost of parts/material is very expensive. I do believe in OEM parts but cost is a factor. I'd like to hear from other 1845 owners and how to keep the machine in good shape. I broke something in the left planetary assembly last weekend and lost about 20 liters of oil while in the midst of a job. I am trying to fix this myself to save money. I've gathered some tools to make this happen as I cannot afford the towing cost to a repair shop. Thank you for having me here. Cheers, Mo
 

Tazza

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Welcome to the site! There are a few CASE owners around here, hopefully they can help you out a bit. If you can give pictures it may help in giving advise.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Messages
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Hello Mo
There are a few of us from the great white north around here. Welcome.
What part of Ontario are you in?
I'm in "northern" On suposedly, but western is more accurate, If I go any further south I'm in the US!
As for parts, call around to a few dealers or fax a list of what you need, prices vary
Have a great day
Ken
 
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TheMaster

TheMaster

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Joined
Aug 20, 2008
Messages
16
Hello Mo
There are a few of us from the great white north around here. Welcome.
What part of Ontario are you in?
I'm in "northern" On suposedly, but western is more accurate, If I go any further south I'm in the US!
As for parts, call around to a few dealers or fax a list of what you need, prices vary
Have a great day
Ken
Thanks Ken. I'm in the Minden/Haliburton area. Buying the 1845 was one of my happiest moments but it also brings be a hell of a lot of heart ache when it breaks down. It costs me $837.50 to tow it my Toronto (one way) repair shop. Right now, my left planetary is broken and cant find a mechanic to come by. I should have bought a newer model but couldn't afford one last year. Big mistake. What city/town are you in?
 

skidsteer.ca

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Messages
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Thanks Ken. I'm in the Minden/Haliburton area. Buying the 1845 was one of my happiest moments but it also brings be a hell of a lot of heart ache when it breaks down. It costs me $837.50 to tow it my Toronto (one way) repair shop. Right now, my left planetary is broken and cant find a mechanic to come by. I should have bought a newer model but couldn't afford one last year. Big mistake. What city/town are you in?
Ok
I'm out in "Northern" on, but it should be "Western" imo, we are right near the Minnesota nad Manitoba borders. Emo, On
Generally those old Case loader are pretty good. People love them. But hopefully you don't have to hire it hauled to much like that.
Take some pics of what went wrong and how you got it fixed. We'd love to have the info here on the forum as a how too.
Ken
 
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TheMaster

TheMaster

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Messages
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Ok
I'm out in "Northern" on, but it should be "Western" imo, we are right near the Minnesota nad Manitoba borders. Emo, On
Generally those old Case loader are pretty good. People love them. But hopefully you don't have to hire it hauled to much like that.
Take some pics of what went wrong and how you got it fixed. We'd love to have the info here on the forum as a how too.
Ken
I had a couple of mechanic friends come by today to help remove my left planetary. It was not an easy project. We ran into problem after problem and out of sheer frustration, one of the guys said he needs to see the leak before I will proceed. I started the machine and oil was gushing out and around the planetary housing. After a few checks he found that the hydraulic hose that runs above the planetary had ruptured below. It was a big crack about 4" long. I had a big freaking smile on my face because it was only a hose and we saved all that time and trouble not having to remove the planetary in the rain. That would have been one b!tch of a job. My diagnosis was wrong because I was alone when I based my opinion. Since machine creeps forward when started, I could only look at it while at the seat/controls. Is there anything I can do to stop the creeping? It sucks to be me. :( I'm told that I can put regular engine oil 10W30 anti foaming for my hydraulic system. What's your opinion? My hydraulic tank/lines are almost empty and it was pumping out air today. Do I have to bleed or air out the system when I start filling the oil as I believe the lines will be full of air now. Also what is the recommended grease for the pins/joints or pivot points on the arms and bucket. Even though that machine is a pain in my butt, I love it so much. If I won the lottery, I'd go out and buy a Case 465 loaded before I did anything else.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Messages
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I had a couple of mechanic friends come by today to help remove my left planetary. It was not an easy project. We ran into problem after problem and out of sheer frustration, one of the guys said he needs to see the leak before I will proceed. I started the machine and oil was gushing out and around the planetary housing. After a few checks he found that the hydraulic hose that runs above the planetary had ruptured below. It was a big crack about 4" long. I had a big freaking smile on my face because it was only a hose and we saved all that time and trouble not having to remove the planetary in the rain. That would have been one b!tch of a job. My diagnosis was wrong because I was alone when I based my opinion. Since machine creeps forward when started, I could only look at it while at the seat/controls. Is there anything I can do to stop the creeping? It sucks to be me. :( I'm told that I can put regular engine oil 10W30 anti foaming for my hydraulic system. What's your opinion? My hydraulic tank/lines are almost empty and it was pumping out air today. Do I have to bleed or air out the system when I start filling the oil as I believe the lines will be full of air now. Also what is the recommended grease for the pins/joints or pivot points on the arms and bucket. Even though that machine is a pain in my butt, I love it so much. If I won the lottery, I'd go out and buy a Case 465 loaded before I did anything else.
Well the parts won't be too bad on that one. Skids are pretty basic, especially the early non electronic models like yours. Often the failures are simple, so try not to overreact to them. Its always a p#ss off when something stops working. But if you can live with a few fixes now and then, you can have a machine that is worth 30% of new one doing the job.
10/30 is used in most manufacturers machines of that vintage and I'm sure will be fine in yours. As for grease I like the heavy red Texas Refinery brand, but any general purpose grease will be fine for the pins. Grease is more about how often you put it in then what you use imo, but heavy, sticky grease can't hurt.
The hyd system should self bleed after several cycles of up and down on the boom and driving the machine around with no load. (don't work it until it quits groaning from the air in the system and quiets down)
As for the creeping this is a very common problem with all brands and there are several posts on the topic, mostly in the bobcat forum but the general procedure would apply to all models.
I a nutshell there are some springs that hold your steering levers in a position that should be neutral on the pumps. One set for each side. The parts wear with use and eventually where the levers stay when you let go of them is not where the linkage to the pump is in neutral.
These need to be adjusted until where the levers sit, is where the pump is in neutral again.
Also common with wear is that one or both of the steering levers does not return automatically to the same location each time it is released, and a creeping problem results, that is worse at some times then others. Sometimes the centring parts are too worn to get a consistent neutral and new parts will be needed. The should no be too astronomically priced as they are common "wear" parts, like say tires, and the factory knows they will be replaced a time or two in the life of the machine
Specifically to Case I can't help you. But take a look and you should be able to sort it out. Read the posts in the bobcat section for general tips on the procedure. Not all will apply to you of course.
Ken
 
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TheMaster

TheMaster

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Joined
Aug 20, 2008
Messages
16
Well the parts won't be too bad on that one. Skids are pretty basic, especially the early non electronic models like yours. Often the failures are simple, so try not to overreact to them. Its always a p#ss off when something stops working. But if you can live with a few fixes now and then, you can have a machine that is worth 30% of new one doing the job.
10/30 is used in most manufacturers machines of that vintage and I'm sure will be fine in yours. As for grease I like the heavy red Texas Refinery brand, but any general purpose grease will be fine for the pins. Grease is more about how often you put it in then what you use imo, but heavy, sticky grease can't hurt.
The hyd system should self bleed after several cycles of up and down on the boom and driving the machine around with no load. (don't work it until it quits groaning from the air in the system and quiets down)
As for the creeping this is a very common problem with all brands and there are several posts on the topic, mostly in the bobcat forum but the general procedure would apply to all models.
I a nutshell there are some springs that hold your steering levers in a position that should be neutral on the pumps. One set for each side. The parts wear with use and eventually where the levers stay when you let go of them is not where the linkage to the pump is in neutral.
These need to be adjusted until where the levers sit, is where the pump is in neutral again.
Also common with wear is that one or both of the steering levers does not return automatically to the same location each time it is released, and a creeping problem results, that is worse at some times then others. Sometimes the centring parts are too worn to get a consistent neutral and new parts will be needed. The should no be too astronomically priced as they are common "wear" parts, like say tires, and the factory knows they will be replaced a time or two in the life of the machine
Specifically to Case I can't help you. But take a look and you should be able to sort it out. Read the posts in the bobcat section for general tips on the procedure. Not all will apply to you of course.
Ken
Thanks for all the excellent details you listed there. I had the busted 3/4" hose made today - better than new and cost me only $65. A friend told me it's about $600 at Case. The busted hose was the original on my 1985-1845B. I de-greased it and found the original Case paint all over it. I want to replace almost all my semi damaged hoses before they rupture. Is it safe to remove the hoses while the system is full of hydraulic fluid? I was so disappoint with this break down (out of commission for 3 weeks), I was thinking of buying a newer 1845C. I would really like a Case that can switch from bucket to forks to snow blower easily. My bucket is fixed and bolted down. Now that you mentioned that my unit is non electronic, it makes a lot of sense that keeping it going is much easier but I need some attachments especially a snow blower. I hate electronics as it makes life so much more difficult for the ordinary guy. Any ideas? I bought my 1845B from an asphalt guy I know for $3K with about 25,000 hours on it. Since then I had it fully serviced and put 4 new tires on ($2K). That's it. She works hard and I really push it and is worth every penny. Re creeping, the ex owner suggested I ignore it because the hydraulic pump is "passing fluid" and is too expensive to fix. What you mentioned is an easier fix for me to try and makes more sense. My machine also has an attachment at the back that can be raised/lowed with a foot pedal inside the cab. The attachment has some serious claws to rip up asphalt pavement as you drive forward. I don't need this attachment and would like to use the ports for something useful. I live in the country and snow removal is very important to me but then I can also use the following: Snow blade (can use bucket instead), log splitter, stump grinder, mini hoe and air hammer in the order of importance and I'm willing to invest about 10K if needed. What would you do? Thanks Ken for your input. Tazza is usually very helpful but he is taking a back seat with my question may be because you have a handle on things. You mods are very helpful here and run the show pretty much yourselves. I'm a mod at a very very busy forum (1000's of visitors per day – No, not a porn site hahaha, lol) but you and Tazza take up a majority of the load here. Keep up the good work. Thank you for all your help.
 

Tazza

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Messages
16,839
Thanks for all the excellent details you listed there. I had the busted 3/4" hose made today - better than new and cost me only $65. A friend told me it's about $600 at Case. The busted hose was the original on my 1985-1845B. I de-greased it and found the original Case paint all over it. I want to replace almost all my semi damaged hoses before they rupture. Is it safe to remove the hoses while the system is full of hydraulic fluid? I was so disappoint with this break down (out of commission for 3 weeks), I was thinking of buying a newer 1845C. I would really like a Case that can switch from bucket to forks to snow blower easily. My bucket is fixed and bolted down. Now that you mentioned that my unit is non electronic, it makes a lot of sense that keeping it going is much easier but I need some attachments especially a snow blower. I hate electronics as it makes life so much more difficult for the ordinary guy. Any ideas? I bought my 1845B from an asphalt guy I know for $3K with about 25,000 hours on it. Since then I had it fully serviced and put 4 new tires on ($2K). That's it. She works hard and I really push it and is worth every penny. Re creeping, the ex owner suggested I ignore it because the hydraulic pump is "passing fluid" and is too expensive to fix. What you mentioned is an easier fix for me to try and makes more sense. My machine also has an attachment at the back that can be raised/lowed with a foot pedal inside the cab. The attachment has some serious claws to rip up asphalt pavement as you drive forward. I don't need this attachment and would like to use the ports for something useful. I live in the country and snow removal is very important to me but then I can also use the following: Snow blade (can use bucket instead), log splitter, stump grinder, mini hoe and air hammer in the order of importance and I'm willing to invest about 10K if needed. What would you do? Thanks Ken for your input. Tazza is usually very helpful but he is taking a back seat with my question may be because you have a handle on things. You mods are very helpful here and run the show pretty much yourselves. I'm a mod at a very very busy forum (1000's of visitors per day – No, not a porn site hahaha, lol) but you and Tazza take up a majority of the load here. Keep up the good work. Thank you for all your help.
Sorry that i haven't been involved, i just don't know much about CASE machines. I don't mean to sound smug, but with what you were told that the pump was "passing fluid" that would not make it creep, thats the neutral adjustment on the pump. I just can't tell you off hand how to adjust it.
Its safe to swap hoses when they have fluid in them still, but you will need to ensure they are not under pressure. Make sure the arms are down and the bucket is tilted forward so its on the ground too. Shut down and cycle the controls to release the pressure. When you crack the fittings allow any any pressure there the escape, there won't be much though.
I'm still lurking, but if i don't have any useful advise i keep my fingers off the keyboard :)
 
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TheMaster

TheMaster

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Messages
16
Sorry that i haven't been involved, i just don't know much about CASE machines. I don't mean to sound smug, but with what you were told that the pump was "passing fluid" that would not make it creep, thats the neutral adjustment on the pump. I just can't tell you off hand how to adjust it.
Its safe to swap hoses when they have fluid in them still, but you will need to ensure they are not under pressure. Make sure the arms are down and the bucket is tilted forward so its on the ground too. Shut down and cycle the controls to release the pressure. When you crack the fittings allow any any pressure there the escape, there won't be much though.
I'm still lurking, but if i don't have any useful advise i keep my fingers off the keyboard :)
Thanks for helping out, Tazza. I missed an important piece of detail on the creeping. If my bucket is loaded and up, it tends to slowly tilt downwards. I have to keep the controls down constantly to hold the bucket up. Could this be considered "passing"? Is there an easy fix or what is the fix for it? I will check out my neutral position springs as suggested and replace them if needed. I'm waiting to see what Ken has to say about my attachments. I need a snow blower attachment very badly. We have some serious snow falls up here. I also wonder if there's a way to convert my bolt on bucket to a quick release bucket without spending too much money. BTW, how can I separate paragraphs on this forum. No matter how I lay it out, it does not post in that manner.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Thanks for helping out, Tazza. I missed an important piece of detail on the creeping. If my bucket is loaded and up, it tends to slowly tilt downwards. I have to keep the controls down constantly to hold the bucket up. Could this be considered "passing"? Is there an easy fix or what is the fix for it? I will check out my neutral position springs as suggested and replace them if needed. I'm waiting to see what Ken has to say about my attachments. I need a snow blower attachment very badly. We have some serious snow falls up here. I also wonder if there's a way to convert my bolt on bucket to a quick release bucket without spending too much money. BTW, how can I separate paragraphs on this forum. No matter how I lay it out, it does not post in that manner.
Master
Give me a call one of these evenings. I can give you some general advise on a few of these problems, that would require much typing here. The loaders arms falling is a separate problem from the tires creeping entirely. Both should not be to hard or expensive to fix. A little good know how and a few minor parts.
I also have standard skidsteer quick attaches here that could be retro fit to this loader to make use the modern skidsteer attachments. Further we have all or our snow attachments on pre season specials.
Ken
807 482-1215 website www.skidsteer.ca
 
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TheMaster

TheMaster

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Messages
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Master
Give me a call one of these evenings. I can give you some general advise on a few of these problems, that would require much typing here. The loaders arms falling is a separate problem from the tires creeping entirely. Both should not be to hard or expensive to fix. A little good know how and a few minor parts.
I also have standard skidsteer quick attaches here that could be retro fit to this loader to make use the modern skidsteer attachments. Further we have all or our snow attachments on pre season specials.
Ken
807 482-1215 website www.skidsteer.ca
Ken, can you give me a time window (Toronto time) to call you so I dont catch you off guard.
 

Tazza

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Ken, can you give me a time window (Toronto time) to call you so I dont catch you off guard.
Falling bucket sounds like your seals need replacing. This involves removing the ram and installing new seals, not too hard to do. If that doesn't fix it, it will be your load checks in the control block. Do the ram first, if it doesn't fix it look at the harder job (load checks) they aren't hard as such, just harder to access.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Messages
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Ken, can you give me a time window (Toronto time) to call you so I dont catch you off guard.
We're central time, 1 hour behind you.
8 to 10 pm is best these days or weekend mornings or evenings after 7:30 am or after 8 pm.
 
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