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Gehl Deutz BF3 1101 Fuel or Valve Issue? Help!
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<blockquote data-quote="Grandpa Chuckie" data-source="post: 140277" data-attributes="member: 26296"><p>It finally warmed up outside enough for me to do 2 things; adjust the valves and check the fuel."Kris" at Foley engine got back with me to confirm valve adjustment. His points were very clear to set the engine TDC, watch #1 cylinder (the one closest to the flywheel-opposite of the the crankshaft pulley), both valves must be slightly open. Exhaust will be closing and intake opening. To be exact, hand turn crankshaft pulley clockwise until I cannot turn the intake pushrod. Mark crankshaft pulley and block. Continue turning crank till exhaust valve pushrod cannot be rotated. Mark that spot on crankshaft pulley and block. The spot between the two marks is TDC. I then adjusted the intake valves to 0.3mm and exhaust to 0.5mm so that there is slight resistance. I then asked what is "slight"? He replied that if you had a large phonebook and put a loose sheet of paper in the open phonebook, and then closed the book and remove the loose page from the phonebook, that is "slight resistance". </p><p></p><p>So I went through the valves as shown in the Deutz manual. My valves were a bit off. Made the adjustment and fired it up. Sounded good, then at about 5 minutes the same faltering started. I carefully watched the exhaust and recorded it. There was no smoke at all. No white smoke and no black smoke. I will try to post that video.</p><p></p><p>The next thing I did was took "Foton's" advise to mount a separate fuel tank and fuel line. So I used an old plastic ice cream container (square not round) and attached a nipple and fuel line. By-passed the lift pump and filter and went straight to the first injector pump, and hose clamped both ends of fuel line. The tank I set atop the cab and poured a quart of #1 kerosene fuel oil, knowing that is clean as I am starting to question the quality of the local diesel supplier. Oh, I let the air in the fuel line slowly bubble up through the qt of kerosene. Took about 10 minutes. Rattled the line and few more bubbles came up. Then cranked on the starter. Took a couple times, and the engine fired and faltered a bit, some black smoke, and slowly smoothed out. Checked the time. Five minutes and running well. Check fuel reservoir and good. Ten minutes--good. Fifteen minutes cycled throttle all the way idle to full throttle. All good. Continue moving throttle for additional five minutes. No smoke, no faltering, and no missing.</p><p></p><p>So, my next step is to drain the fuel tank again (this will be the third time) and drive to our local farmers diesel and get some of that dyed diesel. I figure if the farmers get there fuel there, it has to be good. I will also change my fuel filter again (this will be the fourth fuel filter- Baldwin)</p><p></p><p>I appreciate all the suggestions. Just like the old saying, "two heads are better than one"! </p><p></p><p>3 short videos: 1st = cold idle, 2nd= 2 minutes idled, 3rd = 3 minutes after startup</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Grandpa Chuckie, post: 140277, member: 26296"] It finally warmed up outside enough for me to do 2 things; adjust the valves and check the fuel."Kris" at Foley engine got back with me to confirm valve adjustment. His points were very clear to set the engine TDC, watch #1 cylinder (the one closest to the flywheel-opposite of the the crankshaft pulley), both valves must be slightly open. Exhaust will be closing and intake opening. To be exact, hand turn crankshaft pulley clockwise until I cannot turn the intake pushrod. Mark crankshaft pulley and block. Continue turning crank till exhaust valve pushrod cannot be rotated. Mark that spot on crankshaft pulley and block. The spot between the two marks is TDC. I then adjusted the intake valves to 0.3mm and exhaust to 0.5mm so that there is slight resistance. I then asked what is "slight"? He replied that if you had a large phonebook and put a loose sheet of paper in the open phonebook, and then closed the book and remove the loose page from the phonebook, that is "slight resistance". So I went through the valves as shown in the Deutz manual. My valves were a bit off. Made the adjustment and fired it up. Sounded good, then at about 5 minutes the same faltering started. I carefully watched the exhaust and recorded it. There was no smoke at all. No white smoke and no black smoke. I will try to post that video. The next thing I did was took "Foton's" advise to mount a separate fuel tank and fuel line. So I used an old plastic ice cream container (square not round) and attached a nipple and fuel line. By-passed the lift pump and filter and went straight to the first injector pump, and hose clamped both ends of fuel line. The tank I set atop the cab and poured a quart of #1 kerosene fuel oil, knowing that is clean as I am starting to question the quality of the local diesel supplier. Oh, I let the air in the fuel line slowly bubble up through the qt of kerosene. Took about 10 minutes. Rattled the line and few more bubbles came up. Then cranked on the starter. Took a couple times, and the engine fired and faltered a bit, some black smoke, and slowly smoothed out. Checked the time. Five minutes and running well. Check fuel reservoir and good. Ten minutes--good. Fifteen minutes cycled throttle all the way idle to full throttle. All good. Continue moving throttle for additional five minutes. No smoke, no faltering, and no missing. So, my next step is to drain the fuel tank again (this will be the third time) and drive to our local farmers diesel and get some of that dyed diesel. I figure if the farmers get there fuel there, it has to be good. I will also change my fuel filter again (this will be the fourth fuel filter- Baldwin) I appreciate all the suggestions. Just like the old saying, "two heads are better than one"! 3 short videos: 1st = cold idle, 2nd= 2 minutes idled, 3rd = 3 minutes after startup [/QUOTE]
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Gehl Deutz BF3 1101 Fuel or Valve Issue? Help!
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