I just purchased a Gehl 3000 1976-79 I believe. Got it cheap, it runs and operates. Every cylinder leaks to some degree. Anyway I'm changing all the fluids and I drained the Pump Drive that connects to the engine and the oil came out white milky. The fluid was low on the dipstick before I drained it. There are leaks everywhere but I'm not overly concerned since I will check fluids regularly and fix leaks as I can. But is this a huge red flag for my pump drive unit? The manual says to flush the pump for 10 minutes with #2 fuel oil and then drain and fill with #10 non detergent hydraulic oil. I'm going to try this and cross my fingers...
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you never know that might have been orginal oil and water from what ever reason causing it to not lubercate as well as it should, I think unless there is noise or slop in bearings I would roll the dice and leave it alone just with a better maintence schedule. give it a season of running and pull the magnetic drain plug and if it cleans up if it does call it good.
I would also say, do your oil change, run a LITTLE and re drain and do another oil change, as even after flashing you never get everything out,
so, doing a second oil change/filter, in a few hours, will only add peace of mind to things IMO!
as that was some very milky oil
and as such, things will cling to corners and crevices, that will then come loose after some heat cycles on running things
so that second sooner oil change will only ensure anything that was stuck up some place, gets removed and any rust that built from that water in the oil will work itself out/loose and be removed!
Oil is still cheaper than rebuilds !,
just my 2 cents!
so, doing a second oil change/filter, in a few hours, will only add peace of mind to things IMO!
as that was some very milky oil
and as such, things will cling to corners and crevices, that will then come loose after some heat cycles on running things
so that second sooner oil change will only ensure anything that was stuck up some place, gets removed and any rust that built from that water in the oil will work itself out/loose and be removed!
Oil is still cheaper than rebuilds !,
just my 2 cents!
I took one of the tilt cylinders to get rebuilt because it was leaking like crazy. The shop told me that it basically needs all new parts, and would be cheaper to replace the entire cylinder. However they don't have anything for sale that would work for me. Is there a comparable hydraulic cylinder made these days that would work for me? All 4 of my cylinders leak to some degree....
As far as I can tell the tilt cylinders are "top link" style 2x12 and the lift cylinders are 2x24. Can't find a top link 2x12 but I did find this which is similar. I suppose if I can mount it tight it should work
farmandranchdepot.com
2" bore x 12" stroke swivel eye hydraulic cylinder
2″ bore x 12″ stroke swivel eye hydraulic cylinder 3500 PSI double-acting. Heavy-duty hydraulics, 2-year warranty, free ground Continental US shipping. Magister swivel eye cylinders manufactured using steel piston and steel threaded gland with wear rings for long life. Welded ends with spherical...
farmandranchdepot.com
you need to think about how much the leak , if the steadly leak yes repair or replace if it just stays damp let it go till it gets worse. I would rebuild a factory cylinder if possible vs. making one fit. reason to make one fit you need to replace in pairs. to repair you can do one at a time if need be. I would think to repair a 2x12 somewhere around 200 250 bucks was this in the area of what you were quoted?
I was quoted 800 bucks to get it repaired because they couldn't find parts for it, so they were going to machine the parts themselves. Any idea where to get parts for these cylinders? All I could find was a seal kit on ebay which I bought and gave to them with the cylinder
I found some places want to build you a new cylinder rather than repair if there are scratches in the chrome.
Then it depends on how you use your machine. Are you using it several hours a day or every now and then.
How much hydro are you replacing at 6 bucks a gallon
Then it depends on how you use your machine. Are you using it several hours a day or every now and then.
How much hydro are you replacing at 6 bucks a gallon
cylinders can be re chromed too, if the scratch is not too deep, that is!
but if your cylinder is bend badly or scratched deep, they normally will not repair them, due to they have been weakened by things and they will make a new one, as the costs will not be much different, but in the end you will have a much stronger safer replacement!
again, maybe try some salvage yards for a good used one!
but if your cylinder is bend badly or scratched deep, they normally will not repair them, due to they have been weakened by things and they will make a new one, as the costs will not be much different, but in the end you will have a much stronger safer replacement!
again, maybe try some salvage yards for a good used one!
that might be the way to go if you can find a cylinder that is good then great if you can find one that just leaks some but is otherwise undamaged you have already bought the seal kit. 800 is way to much for a cylinder that small IMO. I had a backhoe cylinder rebuilt that has about a 4 inch bore and is over 3 ft. long and had a internal scratch that had to be honed out for less that 500.00 soooo
A guy just came by with his Haun hay teeder has a wierd around 2 1/2 x 6 inch single action cylinder on it , the ram is speciality made only about a three inch action but must be 15 inches long most threaded for a throw adjustment, Haun wants 1200.00 for a new one. we said no, we will do something different.
