I recently purchased a 98 - 763. When this machine is running it works great, and strong. However, there are several small problems with the hydrolics, and also it eats hydrolic drive belts. Here in Costa Rica there are no Bobcat dealers. Only a parts distributor whom seldom has parts. But there is no machanic I can call to re-adjust the hydrolics and make this machine dependable. I believe many have tried and that is why it is the way it is. I have tried several things myself, but once I cure one problem, the next one appears. I am now bald from ripping my hair out. If any mechanic that is capable of diagnosing and repair these minor problems would like a trip to Costa Rica, I would provide a room at our hotel for you and family, and include meals. I only ask for 5-6 hours a day for 3 days and you can enjoy the rest of the time in a tropical paradise. Get a plane ticket to Costa Rica and I will take care of the rest. If you don't have a wife or girlfriend, that can be arranged as well. www.hotelcostacoral.com my email is: [email protected] I look forward to any help you can provide.
free vacation for help
- Thread starter Michlic
- Start date
When I purchased the machine it had some hyd leaks, and the oil was white (contaminated by water). I changed hoses that were leaking, I installed a rebuild kit in the box where all hoses connect, and changed all oil and resealed so no more water can get in. I examined the tension pulley and the bushing is like new, and I find no fault with this. The pullies on the motor and hyd pump are a bit pitted but not rusty. When I over tighten the belt everything works great for about 20 minutes then the belt is shot. When I replace the belt and tighten with tension pulley to 3 o'clock, the hydr don't work properly. The boom goes up but won't come down, the drive wheels are jerky and jump into and out of motion on their own. (They also ingage imiedeatly when I start the motor and only the emerg break holds the machine back and sometimes this stalls the motor (I thought this should not engage until I press the traction button)). I believe my problem is pressure settings around the pump. I believe the pump is demanding to much horse power and straining the belt. (I could be wrong, as I don't have experience). I'm thinking and hoping that if a gage can be installed and presures set to manufactures recomendations, my problems would smooth out.
The neutral setting won't be causing this. They have relief valves to prevent it loading the pump too much.
I don't know why the belt keeps failing, there is no reason for it to unless there is roughness on the pullies.
I will bet its the condition of the pulley. Get a cordless drill and a wire brush that will fit in the pulley groove and spend some time to clean up the pulley. You want a wire brush shaped like a thick 4" circular saw blade. I did this on a marine engine with belt removed. You can do the engine with it running (for a short period of time). I used a wire brush made of composite stuff not metal. Then prime and/or paint the pulley. If you can get the pulley off, then have it sandblasted. On my boat the pulley(s) would sand down the belt, and it would then fit farther into the V of the pulley and would then begin to slip. Sometimes the belt would not break, but would end up the thickness of a shoelace.
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Sound like you might have multiple problems. First. The belt tensioner should be backed off of the 3 o,'clock positon, this allows movement for the tensioner. Check the alignment between the engine pulley and the pump pulley. Second .Sound like your neutral setting for your steering needs adjusting. This can stall the engine when it's pushed against the brake. The problem your having with the lift not lowwering could be the " Base end restrictor" in the control valve is jamming, because of corrosion. As far as "jerky drive". This could be worn steering cams, and steering blocks. Also, the early model 763's had a problem with the tensioner pulley. What's your serial #? This helps LOTS!
A picture of the girls you mentioned might help to influence someone -------------------- something to think about is the 3 o'clock position , I see it alot that the idler tensioner indictator malfuntions and you get a false reading , you may be putting the belt too tight ------------in the old days before indicators we used a fish scale and a belt tightening tool from Bobcat , you would put the tool on the belt and mark the bell housing , then mark another mark 1 inch from that mark , then pull 15 lbs on the scale and it should be at the inch mark , this would give you just a little flex on the bottom side the belt between the flywheel and the pump pulley ------the bearings inside the tensioner could be bad putting heat off into the belt , those tensioners go for about $330 nowdays , you can replace the bearings in them from a bearing supply house ---------another thing could be the input bearing of the Sunstrand behind the pulley is going bad
It sounds like the steering adjustment is wrong. This will cause the machine to move as you describe when it is started. If this is occuring then the brake will stop the machine moving but not before the drivebelt gets a lot of stress, this could be causing the belt failures. You maybe have a seat sensor that is faulty , that will stop the lift arms and hydraulics intermitently. When adjusted correctly the bobcat will not move until you move the levers, does your machine move around without touching the levers ? You really need a service manual , all of these adjustments are covered in the manual. It would be cheaper to start there first and then maybe get outside help. Old Machinist has manuals on CD , do a search on this site. Goodluck !
