Ford Fanatic
Member
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2024
- Messages
- 10
Hey guys, I just joined the forum! I've read a lot on here from past threads and have gotten some good info. However, I am having a particular problem with my ford 1.6L 2274E engine in my skid loader that I just cant figure out. The engine has 780 hours on it, (yes, its a correct reading) and I can't get it to rev past 1200 Rpm's. I have done the following:
1. Boiled Zenith carburetor parts to clean passages out and reassembled with rebuild kit-new jets, diaphragms, adj screws, springs, gaskets, etcetera. Also, I'm using fresh 93 gas with startron added to keep that pesky ethanol from breaking it down as quickly.
2. Replaced original breaker points/condenser distributor with pertronix distributor because who wants to deal with condensers and points that cost a fortune, and are hard to find/get?
3. Confirmed good blue spark that jumps 1/2" to engine block, and adjusted timing with a timing light anywhere from 0 -30 degrees advanced. it runs best at 1200 RPM with the timing at 18 degrees advanced.
4. Corrected intake leak between cylinders 2-3-coolant passage, which was causing cylinders 2-3 to burn lean (at least the plugs were really white in color-potentially sucking in antifreeze) while 1 and 4 burn rich - repaired leak and now all cylinder plugs have a dark tan color to them.
5. Cold compression check-cylinders 1 and 2 have 120psi, cylinder 3 has 115 psi, and cylinder 4 has 125psi- all within 4 rotations of crankshaft
7. Removed the timing cover and verified cam timing is correct and tensioner is there (i.e. not broken), and chain is tight.
8. Adjusted valve lash to the ford power products manual for this engine and the 1.1L engine, which is .008" for intake valves and .022" for the exhaust valves. seems somewhat weird, but eh, that's what it calls for and I ain't no engineer haha
9. I don't have the precision tools necessary to verify that the valves are opening 100% fully-which would point to a worn camshaft, but that seems very unlikely for only having 780 hours on it, plus, just watching them open and close when I rotate the crank they seem to compress their springs plenty far
10. removed all pushrods and verified that they aren't bent and are all the same length
1. Removed the exhaust manifold to make sure no blockages are in the pipes- i.e. mouse nests, or what have you-it sat in my garage for a few years so you never know. I've seen that in snowmobile air boxes so it was worth a look see. nothing found, all clear
With all that mentioned, it still won't rev up past 1200 RPM. Machine travels very slowly at that engine rpm, and all hydraulics work, but also very slow lift, tilt and auxiliary functions. After all that troubleshooting and repairing/replacing parts I'm at a loss. I just know that I've got to missing something simple. I'm wondering if a different carburetor with a bigger throat would allow more air in, but at the same time, i don't want to richen the fuel mixture up anymore, due to flirting with that rich/lean line. Any ideas from anyone? Thank you in advance.
FF
1. Boiled Zenith carburetor parts to clean passages out and reassembled with rebuild kit-new jets, diaphragms, adj screws, springs, gaskets, etcetera. Also, I'm using fresh 93 gas with startron added to keep that pesky ethanol from breaking it down as quickly.
2. Replaced original breaker points/condenser distributor with pertronix distributor because who wants to deal with condensers and points that cost a fortune, and are hard to find/get?
3. Confirmed good blue spark that jumps 1/2" to engine block, and adjusted timing with a timing light anywhere from 0 -30 degrees advanced. it runs best at 1200 RPM with the timing at 18 degrees advanced.
4. Corrected intake leak between cylinders 2-3-coolant passage, which was causing cylinders 2-3 to burn lean (at least the plugs were really white in color-potentially sucking in antifreeze) while 1 and 4 burn rich - repaired leak and now all cylinder plugs have a dark tan color to them.
5. Cold compression check-cylinders 1 and 2 have 120psi, cylinder 3 has 115 psi, and cylinder 4 has 125psi- all within 4 rotations of crankshaft
7. Removed the timing cover and verified cam timing is correct and tensioner is there (i.e. not broken), and chain is tight.
8. Adjusted valve lash to the ford power products manual for this engine and the 1.1L engine, which is .008" for intake valves and .022" for the exhaust valves. seems somewhat weird, but eh, that's what it calls for and I ain't no engineer haha
9. I don't have the precision tools necessary to verify that the valves are opening 100% fully-which would point to a worn camshaft, but that seems very unlikely for only having 780 hours on it, plus, just watching them open and close when I rotate the crank they seem to compress their springs plenty far
10. removed all pushrods and verified that they aren't bent and are all the same length
1. Removed the exhaust manifold to make sure no blockages are in the pipes- i.e. mouse nests, or what have you-it sat in my garage for a few years so you never know. I've seen that in snowmobile air boxes so it was worth a look see. nothing found, all clear
With all that mentioned, it still won't rev up past 1200 RPM. Machine travels very slowly at that engine rpm, and all hydraulics work, but also very slow lift, tilt and auxiliary functions. After all that troubleshooting and repairing/replacing parts I'm at a loss. I just know that I've got to missing something simple. I'm wondering if a different carburetor with a bigger throat would allow more air in, but at the same time, i don't want to richen the fuel mixture up anymore, due to flirting with that rich/lean line. Any ideas from anyone? Thank you in advance.
FF
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