Yesterday, while working my T-200, I got an over-temp warning on the Vitals display. The gauge on the left was still green, but the vitals showed the oil temp as 260*. I asked the guy I was working with whether he felt any air coming out of the side, and he said no. I'm pretty sure the fan drive has given up the ghost. How easy is it to replace the drive? What has to come out first?
Fan drive replacement
- Thread starter lesgawlik
- Start date
First off, did you check the fan belt? The tensionor likes to wear so that could have failed throwing the belt. Also not unheard the pulley walks off the gear box input shat. The fan box is a simple 90° gear box so unless it was ran without oil because of a leak, or a large stick some how found its way into the fan, not much to fail there.
If it is a belt drive that would be the first place to look. We have only had 1 gear box fail in probably 30,000 hrs on various machines.
How is the best way to check the belt? Is it best to lift the cab?
Kinda a horse a piece. You can see it from the back of the machine.
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The belt is off, so I know that's at least part of the problem. I can see that the number is 25-7440, which is a NAPA number. The replacement available is the same length, but it is a toothed belt. Would there be any problem using that? It looks like the pulley diameter is relatively small, so a toothed belt may be preferable.
I raised the cab. The top pulley and the idler are easily accessible from under the cab. I just put a board from the front of the cab to the back, and stretch out on the board. I spun the fan, and it moved freely without perceptible friction. The idler pulley on the tensioner spun freely. The belt had just been thrown off. I ordered three new belts on line, but I decided to put the old one back on, since I had it handy. It looked in good condition, there were no cuts or visible signs of wear. Getting the belt on the bottom pulley was a matter of doing it by feel. I took a loop of paracord and used that to pull the tensioner towards the front of the cab, and that put enough slack in the belt that I could get it over the top pulley. I ran it, and everything seems to be back in order. Thanks for the help!
Here's an idea I had. I really couldn't tell that the fan stopped working until the engine got too hot. I had the idea of taking about 20" of very thin, orange tape, the sort of which surveyors wrap around marking stakes. I tied it around the plastic grid by the hydraulic oil filler. Now, while sitting in the cab, I can see the plastic tape stream out in the airflow from the fan. When it isn't streaming, the fan is not working.
If the fan stops working, it will over heat in under 5 minutes if already up to temp. From a cold start, about 10 minutes.
I would check the pivot on the belt tensioner to see if there is any play we have replaced several they get wore and the belt tracks off
If/when it comes off again, I will check the pivot. As I compressed it, I didn't notice any additional movement, but I wasn't really paying attention.
7LBSSMALLIE
Well-known member
straight up .pivot arm on tenisor should snap back. pulleys should be in alinghment (wear will be evindecened by one side of pulley being worn? not saying you cant fix fix it but youre dealer has done hundreds of this repair. its a common wear issiue. nothing more. should have parts in stock. the downside of eng overheats. far out weighs . the 150 in parts and labour. or the 6 hrs plus down time.
7LBSSMALLIE
Well-known member
I guees what im trying to say. is guys its allright to to try to fix youre own equipment. I do it too. but down time is a killer. let alone money on parts not needed. . not to mention repairs gone wrong. a simple overheat because of a fan belt. = 10 k eng
